alexwv1863

I put some seafoam injector cleaner in mine. It would miss a little if I had been riding a while, especially after I shut it off for a few minutes. So far I think it's helped with this issue. It's the first time I've put anything other than gas in it. I admit I was Leary at first, but it hasn't hurt it yet that I know of. I pray it doesn't. Lol. Btw, mine is fuel injected

So, I've been working on my 06 Suzuki Ozark 250. Yesterday I tried to put a new key switch on it and I'm not getting any power to it. The 4 wheeler will start and run if you use the pull rope. I checked the 2 fuses I found on either side of the solenoid and they were fine. Im not sure what I need to check next. Electrical issues are not my strong suit, so I would really appreciate any help. What should I look at or try next? Thanks.

I just had problems getting a 1988 quadrunner ltf250 to run. It did thre same thing as yours. I went thru everything. Come to find out the valves weren't adjusted right. They can't be too loose or too tight. Mine was really tight and didn't have enough play. Definitely make sure they're adjusted to spec. I re-did mine 4 times before I got it right. Im sure you've checked, but make sure no fuses are blown.

I probably won't get to work on it until Saturday. I'll need to start over since it's been months that I've worked on it. I don't have a garage, so when it started getting cold, I put the tools up and closed shop. Lol. When weather got warm, I had other projects coming in, and honestly I just dreaded starting work on the Arctic Cat. I have two other ATV's I need to work on, so I really need to get this one running and out of my hair. I know that when I first started working on it, the starter went out. Im assuming it got too hot from cranking so much on it and that's what broke a magnet. It just snowballed from there. I was trying to find out how to test the cdi box because I was told that since there was a magnet loose on the factory flywheel, it could've caused a short or something and affected the cdi box. I tried another factory cdi box and it kept blowing a fuse. Not sure why. I know very little about electrical wiring and such. I did go through the entire wiring harness and found some wires had bare spots in the wire covering. I taped every one that I found and made sure nothing was being pinched off as well. Sorry for the long post. I'll post when I check everything you mentioned Curtis. I really appreciate all of your help and everyone else's as well.

The Arctic Cat is a whole nother story to be honest. I have been over that bike several times, replaced different parts, and still nothing. I really don't know what else to try with it. I made a new thread for it. I spent a good 5 months working on it and still cannot find the problem.

I said the wrong sensor. It wasn't the shift sensor he was told that needed replaced. It was the crank sensor. I can't find anything called a crank sensor. So, what else could it be called?

I can't remember if I posted about this last year or not, so if I did, I'm really sorry. I have been working on a 04 Arctic Cat 400 TRV (Automatic, green) and I cannot for the life of me get it to run. Now, I do know it runs because I had it running for a few minutes after I first started working on it last year. The issue it had at that moment was it would idle but every time you'd give it throttle, it would die. My dad was helping me by starting it. Well, it ended up getting hot and wouldn't start. One of the magnets in the starter broke. I thought that was the problem, but it wasn't. So far I have replaced the starter, carb, flywheel, stator, fuel pump, rectifier, handlebar control switch, ignition coil, starter relay solenoid. I think that's all. A friend of his said he needed to replace the shift sensor. I couldn't figure out where it was located. I do have an idea, but I haven't looked to make sure yet. I was working on someone else's 4 wheeler. This Arctic Cat has me at my wits end honestly. I do have a manual downloaded. If anyone has any ideas, go ahead and leave em. I'll let you know if I've already tried it yet or not. I really hope to get it running this year and out of my hair. I don't want to ever work on it again.

IT'S ALIVE! IT'S ALIVE!! I just got the ol girl to run! I really want to thank y'all for all of the help getting the 4 wheeler to run. It all had to do with the valves not being adjusted right. There's not much else I can do until my buddy buys the rest of the parts. It's sucking air in a weird way but I'm hoping it's just because I have one of the air tubes off that connects to one side of the air filter box. One of the bolts broke that holds the valve covers on and im not real sure how to go about fixing that. I have another 4 wheeler I really need to get running, but I'm going to make a new thread for it because there's a lot I have already done.

I'll keep this in mind whenever I get it to actually run. The engine only turns over and doesn't run. I haven't got it to start at all yet. Right now im trying to get the valves adjusted right. I didn't get to work on it today because it has rained literally all day. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be back at it again. Before I messed with the valves, it would turn over but not run. It's got good spark, brand new charged battery, good spark plug, brand new after market carb that's adjusted to spec, good fresh gas. What else can I check? There's a couple of posts that I need to check what they suggested.

What about when I have the battery hooked up to the charger while trying to start it? The charger I have is also a jump box. Im having a really hard time understanding which gauge I need to use. Im not finding the measurements I need on the gauges. I even bought a different set today. The attached photo is the set I got today. The other set seems to be smaller but I don't have it with me right now. I just want to get this one running so I can move on to one of mine that I have to work on.

Just thought I'd give y'all an update on this HOT Sunday. I've had a time the past few days. I had bought a brand new set of feeler gauges. Couldn't find them at all anywhere thurs, bought a new set Fri. Went to set the timing Fri eve (I figured out where I need to look for the timing marks), some everything like I was supposed to. Then when I try to start thr 4 wheeler, it sounded like crap. I ran out of time Fri night, so I looked again at the manual, even printed off the specs.i tried again Sat, and no luck. Still sounded horrible. So, I was going to try again and realized that instead of 0.06mm for the intake & 0.11 for the exhaust (those are in the middle of the specs range it states), I added an extra "0". Now I'm only admitting my error on stupidity so anyone else whose done this won't feel alone. Lol! The sad part is it took me 2 times to realize this. I've got myself so confused. I bought a different set of gauges today because I thought I didn't have the right ones in my first set. I really hope I figure out what I need to do by tomorrow morning.

Yea I agree. I really appreciate your all's input because it does help out. I don't have a whole lot of experience working on ATV's, but I am increasing my knowledge daily these past few years. I did figure out how to set the timing last night. Im currently waiting on the gasket sealer to set up so I can tighten the bolts to the cam shaft cover. It didn't have any type of gasket on it. That was a blessing in disguise taking that cover off. Had I not, it would've led to problems down the road. I'm not sure but I think it was out of time. I have the correct marks lined up. Just waiting for when I can adjust the valves. There was oil inside one of the wire connectors. I can't remember what it goes to at the moment but it definitely isn't supposed to have oil in it. I have the manual downloaded and have been looking thru it. Sometimes other people can explain the solution better than the manual can. Thank y'all again.

I took the head off the jug on the motor because I'm thinking it's out of time. I didn't get your last message in time. Now my issue is this: someone has been in the head of the motor and didn't put a gasket or gasket sealer back. There has been water in there sometime before because several of the bolts were rusted. One good thing is the timing chain is tight and nothing inside there is rusted. I tried looking for timing marks on the chain, but I really don't know for sure what I'm looking for. I see the marks on the cog. I'm going through the repair manual now, but I wanted to ask you guys what you thought, and if you could tell me what I need to be looking for. Before I took the head off, I tried cranking it over, it would get that shimmy like it's about to crank, but it just won't hit. That's what led me to think it may be out of time. Then, when I took the head off and saw someone had been in there before, it furthered my suspicion. I might add that I've never tried to set the timing on a 4-wheeler. I really appreciate all of your all's comments and trying to help me.

So far I have checked the carb, the needle setting, the air flow needle. All of those are set correctly according to the manual. The needles aren't damaged at all. It is a Chinese brand I think. I know for sure it's not OEM but it's made identical to the factory original. Im not for sure if the jet holes are the same, but visually they look close to identical. It's still doing thr same thing, except now the 4 wheeler jumps a little like it's trying to start. That's thre best way I know how to describe it. I guess I'm going to check the timing next. Oh, the intake boot is fine, no cracks or tears. I ran into that issue with an arctic cat im working on that I cannot for the life of me get to run. That's a whole nother story for another time. Will update what I find next.

Yes, I've checked the old spark plug and the new one and they both have spark. The last time I checked it before I quit for the day, it appeared a little wet and it was starting to get carbon on the end. I rigged up the choke with a wire for the time being, I tested the stator and it also appears to be fine. I couldn't find the orange and white wire that goes to the cdi box, but I'm going to look more tomorrow. Im also going to go through all of the wires and make sure none of them are naked or burnt. Im running out if ideas. When I put my hand over the back of the carb, it starts acting like it's going to hit and start. Doing this I started getting a little smoke and the engine started to get warm to the touch. I bring this up bc it's a first so far. I also need to check the rectifier. That's another thing I haven't tested.

I switched the carbs and now it acts like it wants to run. Got it to backfire once. I swear it sounds like the mufflers stopped up somewhere, but if you put your hand over the muffler, you can feel air coming out. This new carb isn't flooding like the old one. It's really bugging me. Ugh!

Ok, so I now have this issue and I'm not sure if it's because I took the jets and stuff out of the new carb and put it into the old carb. Im assuming it's the right carb for this bike. I have gas going to the carb but it's spraying out of the back of the carb and the overflow, even the air outtake (not sure if that's the right name). I'm getting compression. I took the spark plug out and held my finger over the plug hole. It seems like it's got enough compression. I think im going to switch everything back to thre new carb. I don't get it. I know it's got to be something simple that im overlooking. I'm going to try to attach a video if I can... This is what happens now since I switched carb parts around from new to old. 20220516_154032.mp4

Thank y'all so much. Im going to give what y'all said a try tomorrow and see what happens. I don't hear the starter grinding. It's more of a "putt putt" noise where it sounds like it's sucking air, which it actually is from the air box. It made me wonder if it was getting too much air, so I've even tried covering the hole with my hand, part of at shirt. Still nothing. Just thought I'd throw that in there as well. I tried a little starting fluid but im not sure I got anything in the carb bc of how it's placed. He told me he got it to run when he poured gas im the motor. Im assuming I have the lines on the fuel pump correct. I'll take a photo and mark the lines tomorrow as well.

I'm working on my buddy's 1988 Suzuki Quad Runner 250 2x4 and I'm having some issues. The main issue so far is I can't get the dang thing to start. When I try craniking it with the electric start, all it will do is grind. Occasionally it will backfire once at a time. That doesn't happen every time though. I have read that some 4 wheelers have to have the hand brake engaged before it will start. I'm not sure if this is one of those or not. The carb is brand new, fuel pump works, brand new battery, gas is fresh. There isn't a choke cable right now. What am I missing? What would you recommend me trying? Also, how is this 4 wheeler's engine supposed to be cooled? Today was the first day I've actually started going through it. There are several parts he needs to order. I'm just trying to get it to start first before any more money is spent on it. Thank you for your help. I really appreciate it.

It'll always be zeros.

That could be it. You might want to think about putting a new set of clutch plates. Here's a link to one on Ebay if you're interested. It sounds like the clutch plate for 2nd gear might be slipping. You could also try adjusting the clutch a little bit and see if that helps before you buy anything. I have the same bike. https://www.ebay.com/itm/403335178607?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Mx1SeBALTpe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=GatOuRqcQdy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

That's a good idea. I'll look around for someone while I'm working on other stuff like the wiring. I took a few minutes a little bit ago and took the front cover off to look at the wiring under the handlebars. I figured I'd have some naked or chewed wires. I wasn't quite expecting what I found but I'm honestly not surprised since I've already seen mice evidence. Those suckers went to town on the wires. I have quite the job ahead of me tomorrow (weather permitting). I'm going to enclose some photos. I also took photos of the belt to show what it's like. The one photo of my squeezing it is to show its pliability. Hopefully it'll give you a little idea. Also, what can I clean the belt with that wouldn't hurt it? I truly appreciate all of y'all's help.

Thank you so much. I had been wondering if welding would add too much weight to the pieces and throw it off balance like someone else had mentioned it might do. Would flux core welding be ok to do? That's what kind of welder I have. Before I tackle that side, I need to see if I can get it to start. Right now it won't turn on, but I haven't had the time to really check it over and see if there is possibly a loose or disconnected wire. I've been trying to find repair manuals for it and a couple other ATV's I have and am working on. It seems like the service manuals aren't as detailed or has everything in them like the repair manuals do. I've been trying to find free downloads because I just don't have the money to buy them. If you have any other suggestions, my ears are open. Thanks again.

I have seen some manuals on the downloads section. I just didn't know which ones I could use and which ones I couldn't. I haven't quite figured out how to know which year's are the same with motor and electrical wiring. I would love to know if someone would share how I could learn this. Lol. Right now, it would really help me out because I have several different ATV's I am or need to be working on. Thank you for letting me know about this manual. I'll definitely give it a look over. As far as I know, there aren't any clubs in my area. I'll give YouTube a go and see what I can find. I usually start my research there, but really wanted to run it by you all and get some opinions.

You could also clean the carb and adjust the idle screw like the ones before me suggested. Make sure you clean and blow out all of the injectors in the carb when cleaning it. I don't think it would be a hard fix. I actually have the exact same 4-wheeler that I'm working on