Gwbarm

When i was working on my 2000 it ended up being a YFM400F, doing o Vin# search. I had problems finding the correct manual, i used both of these on this site, mine had the wiring harness stripped out when i got it so i had to completely rewire it, and there is a little difference between the wiring on a 2000 and a 2001 compared to the other models covered in the manual, my CDI and wiring to it was different. Never did find one exactly for my machine, hopefully you dont have that trouble. Dont get me wrong, the manuals were a lot of help, couldnt have done it without them, but they were not exact for my machine, i just figured it out. Just thought i would add that bit of information, from my expierience.

I would wear welding gloves or figure out a way to hold it solid before you heat it, if not as soon as you hit it with the hammer and punch it will bounce out of position and first response is to grab it and position it back , but it is hot and it will burn you, just relaying my expierence.

I would also try some fuel injector cleaner in the fuel, I use Berryman Chem Tool you can get it at Wal mart, i really like this stuff, it actually works.

Yeah! When mine borrow stuff i just take it to them, dont really expect it back, so I get myself another one.

Great information! Thanks for that Mech.

You are right they should burn when it’s running you can check to see if you have voltage on the light wires and check the switch for proper operation

Just looking at your photo looking like lights are not there are the wires intact and no battery hooked up.

Sounds interesting! Everything you have replaced should have you sparking, the CDI should be by the voltage regulator, does it look different from the one you replaced, there arent 2 CDIs unless it was rewired and previous owner didnt remove the old one.

Sounds like carb issues, i would have thought, like you, starting and running it would have kept that from happening, if you are running ethynol fuel it has a tendacy to form a jelly like substance in the carb from sitting, if thats the problem, fairly easy to clean up, if it hasnt rusted everything in there.

I think you are exactly right Mech, without the spring it worked fluidly and closed easily. When i put the spring back on it seems to push everything to the spring side, that why i took it all apart Didnt really see any wear on the shaft or the bore. I changed the spring, i thought at first the spring may be weak, no difference. Since you mentioned it i havent checked to see if their is something missing that keeps the spring lined up with the shaft,  because it did seem like it wanted to pull in that direction with the spring on it. Spring shaft or none of those kind of parts are listed as replaceable parts. I will look at my other carb to check if there is another piece thats missing although its the one with the half moon cable hook up may be different anyway.

Well, that didnt really work out. Shaft from aftermarket is a little different. I am keeping my eye open for another carb, this one works good except for going back to idle, but its Ok i just have to goose it and it will go right back to idle.

So its on to my next venture and spend some real money. The tires are in bad shape i have slimed them and slimed them and green is seeping out they were cracked and dry rotted really bad, it has been good enough to test with but a couple still leak down after a month. So i will be getting a set of Kenda Bear Claw EX , i have used them before and they seem to be good tires. I usually take them in and have them mounted, but this time im going to do it myself, i usually dont, because i dont really have the right equipment to do it and no more often than i need it havent purchased anything descent. Im doing it myself this time because i want to refinish the rims while the tires are off. We will see how that works out, not really something i enjoy doing, changing tires seems to fight me on every level.

Wow! That stuffs really gone up, i think the last i bought was maybe 1.99 a can

Kerosene, well that doesnt burn very well, i thought ours are  mostly ethyr, maybe wrong, i dont use it much.

I always use non ethynol fuel, even if i have to drive 20 miles to get it, i have seen too many carbs ruined by it. 

Thats Bad, I think the first thing i would do is check all my connections and make sure they are good and tight. Im sure you have done that already. Does everything else seem to be working correctly, just no spark.

If it not an original OEM Mikuni carb i would just put on the new carb you ordered and see how thats works out, it will be fine. Its not normal for the needle to not move with the float there should be a little wire holder to attach it to the float, as the float moves up and down so does the needle. Sometimes inside the seat can get a little sticky and gummy and cause it to get sticky, i put a qtip in my drill with a little tooth paste on it to polish it up a bit and do the same on the needle sides, it slides a little smoother in the seat.

Good to hear from you EJ, i was just thinking about you yesterday , wondering how it was going. Good you went ahead and replaced the starter and soloenoid, dont want to be trying to get it going with that fighting you.

Thats great news! I hope everything works out , will be good to get it running after such a long wait. Thanks for keeping us informed, hearing it running will be worth the wait.

Good work! Glad you got it fixed 

Working OK, not as good as when i first did it, maybe lube it with some slick 50, not up to my standards yet, i think i will try replacing the shaft, not listed as a replaceable part, but i am going to try one from one of my aftermarket carbs and see how it works.

It appears to just pull out with an O Ring to seal, item # 14, you might try spraying some carb cleaner around it and let it soak to help get it out.

Valvoline is good oil, i have never used their ATV oil, i have been using Yamalube mineral oil, it has the best rating and is not that much more expensive than any other, i have also used Suzuki Ecstar in my Suzukis no issues. I have also used Rotella and Castrol no issues with any of them.   

Glad to hear you got it going I thought I remembered caltric having them but maybe don’t go back to 94

I like the older at ones myself I will keep looking also let you know if I find anything you might try the pin for a temporary fix until you find one

Chinese carb should get you running probably have to do some major cable adjustments, don’t throw your original mikuni away, that part I think you are referring to is the needle seat I’m sure it’s replaceable I just can’t remember if it pulls out or screws out I will take a look I have a similar big bear carb