BruceWA

Any resolution on your machine not starting? Seems like “we” got off topic a bit. Your CDI is suspect in my mind. However, the coil is what produces high voltage to the spark plug. Coil and spark plug cable (one piece for your machine, I think) is inexpensive and not a hard change out. A new CDI is much more expensive, aftermarket is less expensive but probably for a reason. Change out is simple.

Quality plugs in small engines tend to be with the money IMHO. They last longer and do what they should. As far as oil goes, if you change it regularly and use the correct viscosity, I know of no reason to be fancy with it. Detergents are OK, but if you’re leaking by rings, etc. fix the root if the problem. Mech

OEM specs are what you are looking for. The owners manual (online if you don't have one) details all lubricants and their grades for different temperature ranges. For example, you may use one grade (weight) of oil in the summer and different one in the winter. As for name brand, IMHO, make yourself happy. As long as it meets the OEM specs, you should be good to go. Different brands add different detergents and the like. I have found in the past 50 or so years of changing oil that some big name brands have an incredible amount of paraffin, others are more basic. You will find a great range of opinions when it comes to oil. My bottom line is that I stick to OEM specs and change it often. Mech - Penzoil and Quaker State are old/big names in oil in the USA and more popular in the east than the west.

Curious about the oil. Lots of OEM statements/qualification on oil use. Lots of aftermarket opinions too.

Thanks for the feedback Mech. All my meters are Flukes. I am an old electronics tech and run a one-man guitar amp repair shop for fun. Have access to a Simpson 260.m, will give it a try. The pebbles look like quartz to me. New CDI arriving today. Will post an update in a day or so.

Agree. Not too hard, but ‘sharp’ tap. Shut off the fuel and drain the bowl. If it sits a lot, suggest you shut off fuel and run it dry before laying it up. A good fuel stabilizer is really worth the money IMHO.

Agree with Mech. Once you identify the real issue, you have a bit if work in front of you. Very doable with a decent shop manual and tools. Specialty tools can usually be borrowed from Napa or similar.

Mech is correct. Start with basics. Spark and fuel.

Ver similar to issues with my “new to me” 2000 Kodiak. Rebuilt then replaced carb. No real difference. Had great spark than almost nothing! Chased electrical and have ordered parts. Plug cap removed and screwed back on. Coil measures good. Magneto changes from good to bad readings. Can’t test CDI box but found tiny pebbles imbedded in back of it. Removed them. Put it all back together and it runs great! Go figure (loose connection somewhere). Find that idle speed is hard to keep set but seems to be settling down. Hope my findings can help you a bit.

Have to agree, more info needed. Basics of ignition: fuel , compression, spark.

I picked up a 2000 Kodiak and have been doing lots of repairs. A good manual is important. When wiring, I agree that a good ohm meter is a must! Removing body parts makes access a lot easier. Be sure to run and secure all wiring correctly m, especially around hot areas (cylinder head, exhaust, etc.)

Bought a 2000 Kodiak, no title. Others I looked at were the same. No interest in using on public land so not an issue for me. But still surprised that so many are paperless.