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slickerthanyou

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Posts posted by slickerthanyou

  1. Any one know what brand carb is on this bike?  A friend of a friend wants me to help him rip carb apart rebuild and rejet with a slip on pipe,  he asked me what he should buy, i have no idea. I googled but came up empty.  even local motorsports place can't help me weird.  2013 honda crf230

  2. The only experience in flipping the wheels I have had was on a blaster both 88-02 ans 03-06.

    I can tell you from my experience, I couldn't do it on the 03-06 as it was front hydro disks and the stem contacted the caliper. The do make flush valve stems get them on Ebay Flush Mount Valve Stems Set of 4 Wheel Valves Chrome | eBay I have not tried these but know a few who said they worked flawlessly.

    On the 88-02 they flipped no problem and gave me 2" on each side which helped a lot! On the down side they tracked like crap, made steering harder, turning worse. On the blaster there is no camber/caster adjustment just toe in or out so it was a sacrifice to flip and save the money - extended arms with adjustments, which was over $400 out of my budget. I just dealt or (re learned how to steer) with the flipped rims and left it like that. Only other possible issue I would for see with flipping is if you run a directional tire.

    Now I run 2.5" wheel spacers (the screw on type) on the 03 blaster, and that has served me well, I am 225lbs and 6 tall, I dont jump 20 footers anymore but i am also no easy on it it get beaten over boulders and stumps and have had zero failures, I only have them on the front i have a extended axle for the rear.

    With this said, I am not sure how zuks front set up is. Just wanted to give you my feedback to think about!

  3. Thanks, I got it working now i figured out that the screw holding stator on was sticking out to much and interfering. Just curious do you know size of the idle screw, because my carb seem to be missing it?

    Thanks

    The idle screw is located on the big silver box on top of the carb called the (TORS assembly), you can get to it by removing the seat. If that isnt the one you are referring to see the diagram in this link you should be able to order just about any piece there! Just click the drop down box and click on carb :wink:

    OEM Parts and OEM Motorcycle Parts for Dirt Bikes, ATVs and UTVs | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

  4. HI Nate!

    A few things to check, 1. When you put the new flywheel on did you reinstall the woodruff key on the shaft its a little half moon shaped thing that goes on the cut out on the crank shaft its tricky to get on correctly?

    2. If you removed the stator which is underneath the flywheel, and replaced the Phillips screws with allen heads, you may have to shave them down as I have seen a few heads too long and it get hung up.

    3. make sure that all the coils on the stator are tight if a screw backed out it will allow a coil to move and it doesn't take much to hit the magnets.

    4. Lastly with the flywheel off , give it a couple easy kicks and see if its binding with out the flywheel if so could be a bad rod bearing, or a ring snagging a port and not the flywheel at all or a few other things over in the tranny area.

    Report back what ya find if anything, making a short vid or a couple pics can sometimes help to solve an issue!

  5. I have had no luck with Ricky stator products and also know quite a few others with bad out of the box stuff. I would steer clear of that brand. I can tell you I have great luck with just replacing a pickup, source or lighting coil. I use ricksmotorsports.com for my electrical needs and have never had an issue with a bad part. If you feel comfortable with working with Electrical stuff I say do it.

  6. hello, i did look into Miller and Lincoln as well. as you mentioned the prices are more expensive. Longevity actually has a welder that is similar to one of Miller's 110/220v portable spoolgun capable but I could buy 2 Longevity's for the price of 1 miller. Longevity has a forum that i was looking into and alot of positive things on their MIG welders. I gave them a call and they gave me a great price for the welder and spool gun as well. And as far as I know they have the best warranty on the net which was a plus! I couldn't pass it up. I went ahead and purchased one and should be receiving it right away. I have 30 days for money back guarantee so hopefully everything works out, I think i made a good choice. Thanks for the info!

    Migweld 140 140AMP 110v Mig Welder - MIG Welders | Longevity Global Inc

    Those look nice and for sure way cheaper than Miller or Lincoln. I got a great deal on my setup also, as the school I went to let me order through them, saved me over $600. Let us know how it holds up! Be a great alternative!:yes:

  7. I have had the Miller DVI2 for about 7 years no issues at all. I"ve welded carbon steel, stainless, and aluminum all with no problems, I like the fact that I can use 110 or 220 just by changing the plug which is a simple twist lock. I use straight argon for everything. Cost a little more however I am not using it everyday either a bottle lasts me about 6 months or five 2lb spools, it also will take the larger spools too which I bought this last time. This goes for any MIG set ups but I always blow my liners out after every spool I haven't had to replace them yet. Just simple maintenance keep the equipment running top shape!

  8. I don't know where Johnstown is compared to where I am. 2000 acres to get lost in sounds awesome. I don't know what my schedule is gonna look like in July.

    Thanks for throwing that out to me.:yes:

    It's about 3.5 hours West from frackville. I'm from pittsburgh, so very limited on places and most are not very large. I'll keep ya updated!

    -Bob

  9. Yeah they are a competitor of Go-Pro. I am from Frackville so most of my riding gets done in that area. I like to stick to parts unknown. I try to fly under the radar as there are property and pay to ride issues where I am. I consider myself an old school freerider, with the main thing being free. :wink:

    I hear the free part!!! :biggrin: of course you'd have to be on the other side of this state!!

    If your near Johnstown, PA around July , a buddy usually has a nice weekend ride, FREE, well bring your own beer anyhow!, But its a blast about 2000 acres to get lost in! A great time in the trails! :yes:

  10. A question I can answer! WooooHoooo!

    Motor work- I use Ken oconner racing- kenoconnerracing.com awesome work great guy to deal with over 30+ years of experience!

    He can port, polish, reshape the head, lighten the flywheel, lighten the balancer, lap the case halves, complete tear down rebuild in his shop, he does all the work in his shop! To ship a whole motor cost me about $50 fedex.

    The pipe, which you will want do do for sure can be had on ebay, or blasterforum.com the cheapest, most popular are the toomey for trail riding, and the right bend pipes, LRD, power pros, Trinity , F7 and dyno ports are all top end pipes , I run a power pros on a stroked ported blaster and it kicks arse!

    Then you will need a bigger car to feed that monster, 30mm-35mm is what most run and that 35mm is good even if you go to a BBK. Keihin PWK carbs are a sinch to jet. This can be had through ebay also.

    Then that stock air box is gonna be the only piece of restriction left, may want to look into a F7 Box$$$ or a CFM box$$, both on ebay, or projectblaster.com

    Of course with all this power, (pretty much double HP what stock is) you should get rid of those front drum crappy breaks and do the hydro swap so you will have stopping power when ya need it no fading.

    For the rear brakes the stock cable jobs are horrible, you really want to do this before you decide to do the fronts, there is a member on blasterforum by the name of AWK08, he makes bolt on rear hydro brakes, complete setup pedal and all for the 88-02 blasters, one of the best mods i ever did! dual piston GSXR brake system!

    Now that you can go fast and stop, You'll need to get the dress up parts, none of this crap makes you faster but sure does look good!

    Rockymountainatv.com (pretty much anything)

    RJatv.com ( best prices on most blaster parts)

    ebay.com (found great deals here)

    Blasterforum.com (really the best place to buy good blaster parts)

    cheapcycleparts.com (great OEM stuff at a good price)

    Kenocnnerracing.com (all your motor needs)

    Woodwardspecialties.com (will match most ebay prices!)

    I kinda am going overboard on my new build about 4G's in and still going , but she is gonna be a beauty and quick!- slick

  11. I don't have a manual for the warrior, but You may want to test the coil, (what the spark plug wire connects to). Even a bad plug boot can cause this.

    Blaster/raptor/warrior/banshee- remove the plug boot by unscrewing it- check the resistance of the boot by; putting one end on the screw and the other where it plugs on the sparkplug should be between 4-6K Ω, if that checks ok next- the primary resistance of ignition coil [positive lead (red) to the skinny power wire coming out of coil unplug it to test this-to generator(stator) and negative lead (black) to one of the grounding terminal on either side of the coil] should get- 1.44-1.76Ω Secondary resistance [positive lead (red) to the plug wire and neg (black) to the power wire on coil to generator(stator) again unplugged] 5.28-7.92K Ω.

    If any are not in this limit replace it! Hope this makes sense to ya!

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