beast6228

The Lakota, which is an American Indian name, they are very common here. Lots of people have them.

Someone gave me a copy of one. The one on this site appears to be the same thing, but isn't searchable in Adobe for some reason. Anyway, I wish this manual was as nice as the Bayou 300 one, especially since I actually printed off a copy of the Lakota manual. The photos in it are horrible, very dark and blurry. These two images below are from that manual and are better than most in it.

I went and downloaded the Bayou 300 manual and can see the references to emissions. Overall the quality of the manual is superior. The images in mine look like someone scanned it at a gas station copy machine. The images in the Bayou 300 manual are very clear. It's also more detailed with information. With that said, the Bayou 300 and Lakota 300 had the same engines, but they setup things differently between the two. Even more so if you bought a California compliant model.

You must have a different manual than me, mine has no such text referring to emission control.

It's definitely different, rather a poor design. There is only one tube that vents -the two tubes that come from the head and the crankcase are tied together (as the diagram shows) On Non-California models that final and only vent is strapped on the frame. California models it goes to the airbox. You would think that a crankcase vent would be similar to the vent on the head. (which is a fitting) Venting the crankcase is to prevent pressure build up, which could potentially blow out the engine seals. Here is a better photo, this is what the factory breather tube to the crankcase looks like. Of course, I will attach the photo from the service manual again. (actually it's above in the first post) You can see the Left side view of the engine and how the breather system tubing looks, in addition to how that tube is routed down into the case. (Just doesn't show how that is achieved) Perhaps since these were sport atvs, they didn't figure people would need to know about that since they weren't advertised for riding in the swamps. The world will never know! I do know one thing though, I have had a hard time getting this thing to run right, it's running super lean and will only rev normally with the choke, not because of the carb (I rebuilt it to factory specs), but it's sucking too much air. I need to cap off the vent on the air filter box (Yes, that is what diagrams show) and check for potential leaks on the carburetor intake boot.

Apparently that tube just sits in there between the transmission/sprocket cover and the stater cover, it's wedged in and is held by a metal tab/clip, but it's not connected to anything. (Kinda stupid design if you ask me, why bother at all?) This was according to someone else who is currently in the process of changing out their broken cover. So, I guess I can save $80 dollars or so and can put that money into other things. I will just buy some Goodyear hose and make my own breather tubes.

If you look at the photo I posted above (breather_Lines2.png), you can see the diagram of how it goes down into the gear/sprocket cover. (verified by grabbing a glimpse from Youtube videos ) So basically, the camshaft cover vent tube and the crankcase vent tube are connected together, then one more tube from those two tubes goes back down the frame (so it can drain downwards) and is basically zip tied to the frame. (this is what I have seen from videos, it's hard to see when people are moving around) On California models that vent tube goes to the air chamber case (the first air tank that feeds the carburetor) but this isn't a California model and those connections are capped off from the factory. I will post a photo of my atv and show you the case. Then I will post another photo of someone else's atv where that hose goes into their crankcase. Anyway, I wouldn't be here if someone hadn't pulled that tube out. As I discovered, the gear box / sprocket cover was cracked, someone JB welded it back together probably though to themself that the crankcase breather tube was not needed OR it was damaged when the drive chain smacked it. (I will never know) BUT I want to replace it. I am going to leave this here, but if you currently own a Lakota 300 and have spare time, I would love to see some photos of these areas. I am sure I am not the only person who is looking for this information. Maybe a Clymers manual shows it, but I can't keep throwing money into this atv. The aftermarket gearbox cover, OEM gaskets and the vent system is going to add yet another $250+ dollars into this thing and I have yet to discover if I will need to rebuild the top end and possibly gears. I appreciate all those who have commented on this post, you have been trying. I have also posted on Facebook groups dedicated to these atvs and no one has responded. Thanks again!

I have the pdf service manual and searched the entire manual, but still doesn't show it, just what I posted above, that's it.

I've been trying to piece this Lakota 300 back together, slowly. It's been a rabbit hole however. I replace one thing, then it leads to replacing other things. Anyway, When I got this thing I noticed that the hose coming off the camshaft cover wasn't attached to anything, it was just hanging loose. (It's literally just a foot long hose attached to nothing) I figured since it was venting the head it would be ok and I am sure it is. However, last night I was looking at the service manual and noticed that it mentioned that this atv has a crankcase breather tube as well. Mine does not have one, so I looked at Partzilla and looked at the parts diagram and sure enough, it's definitely supposed to have one. The problem however is, the service manual does not show how it hooks up and the parts diagram only shows the exploded view of the assembly. I just find that kind of strange, nowhere in the manual does it show how it connects. Does it have it connector, attach to a nipple? It just doesn't say and it bothers me that there is a hole there without anything attached to it. If anyone has a Bayou 300 or Lakota 300 with an intact breather vent system and could possibly take some clear photos of it or know how it connects I would be very grateful. I have searched high and low and cannot find any information on it. Thanks

If you need a cylinder head, you can get used one with a 30 day warranty for under $200 with free shipping from Power sports nation (World's largest used ATV/UTV parts dealer), they also sell a completely rebuilt one for $400 (if you send them your old one, you get $50 back). As for cylinders, the Amazon/Ebay ones will work, but if your cylinder is in too poor of shaped to be honed you could always get your cylinder bored over for very little money, but then you would have to order a Wiseco piston that will fit the bore size. After reading the above, Mech basically said the same thing, but definitely check out Power Sports Nation if you need used parts.

I finally got all my air box parts the other day, I checked the carb, it was clean as a whistle, the plastic choke cable collar was broken, I had to order one of those $10 (still waiting on that), I dug into the electrical, pulled out the voltage regulator, noticed that one of the pins on it was broken and the connector was full of mud and corrosion, I found a used at PSN for $15, I figured since that was probably shot and those will burn out a CDI fast, I ordered a new CDI box on Amazon, that was another $18. Before I put everything back together, I filled a jar with some muriatic acid, soaked the connectors in it for a minute, then rinsed it off, came out nice and shiny, just like new. Needless to say I put everything back together (except for the choke cable, I had to hold that in while I started it) and it fired right up and revs perfectly now. I was reading some stuff about using a POD filter on a Keihin cvk carb I guess if you don't modify the inner portion by trimming it, they will block air to the port that lifts the slide, which means nothing will happen. I am not sure if that was causing trouble all along, but I am not worried about it now, maybe someday I will experiment and see if that pod filter will work if I trim that inner portion. Now onto finishing up removing rust, painting the frame and fixing the exhaust that is missing all the internals because someone thought it would be a good idea to make it sound like a Harley with straight pipes. 😁

I use Valvoline Motorcycle oil, 10w-40, as long as you change your oil on a regular basis, you will be good to go. Some of the name branded oil like Kawasaki advertises Zinc in their oil for protection. The scam is that the Zinc does nothing, it's the Phosphorus in the oil that protects the valves, cams and piston rings.

I see one on Ebay now for $44, https://www.ebay.com/p/944144465

If you start it and it goes clunk, clunk, clunk.. Sounds like It might be the one way starter clutch. When you drain the oil, have you seen any metal bits in there?

On Ebay, they want over $170 just for the air box, no ducts or anything. One of the parts I could not get was the frame that goes behind the filter, I think it's plastic. I will probably end up having to make one, either out of a sheet of plastic or metal, possibly brazing rods and weld them together to form a frame. That part is # 13270-1317...kinda odd that such a simple item is not available, even though they have all the other stuff available.