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Ok, now that I have completed the installation of the rt side block off heat shield, I can describe the process. Honestly, I cannot understand why no one has responded to this post, as this heat problem must be prevalent on most Polaris Sportsman 570 ATV's of this vintage. The install was a bit tricky, with no installation instructions other than contact the dealer. What a shame. 1st; must remove seat, then upper side panel (two plastic push pins). 2. Loosen rt side plastic rear panel to allow room to slip the provided metal heat shield into place; remove three screws on rt side of rear rack, then two screws holding rear panel to lower foot board. Easy! 3. Remove existing smaller heat shield located between exhaust pipe and air box; three screws onto frame. Slide the unhooked shield backwards between rt rear plastic panel and rear muffler. 4. Insert new larger heat shield from the rear between muffler and plastic panel. Because this shield is longer and larger, the rt rear plastic panel must be pulled outward maybe an inch and a half to allow easy fitment. 5. Replace the three bolts thru the shield and into the existing frame bolt holes as used before. Use a an extension on the 1/4" socket drive to better reach the third bolt located slightly behind the muffler. 6. Replace all previously removed screws for rear rack and rear fender. 7. Drop in/insert the removable block off panel. 8. Replace the rt top plastic panel; two push plastic pins. Done, maybe 30 minutes task, now no more heat on my leg.

I agree with Jen that only non-alcoholic fuel should be used in small engines particularly if there will be long periods of non usage or storage. Alcohol and water in presence of certain metals will form corrosive acids. I have seen and cleaned a few carburetor float bowls heavily sludged due to old alcohol fuel

I've used your tongue wt calculation method before kind of a fulcrum method. I know a lot of people have no clue on that method. You have many talents. Might be a little too heavy? My comfort zone on my F150 hitch is less than 500 lbs, but not sure of ratings with the Toyota hitch system. Last year I hauled two motorcycles out of Arkansas in a 12' enclosed trailer and calculated the tongue wt at 375 lbs.

Wow, Jen, I am impressed by your handiness for mechanical ability. I observed your method for loading the trailer over the tongue end where the trailer may be lowered for better angle of loading. Interesting!

Hi Jen, glad to talk with you again. My old Honda has a up or down button on the handlebar control which generates the electric shift in the transmission, no clutch action required. However, the rpm/travel speed needs some coordination with which gear going into which is quirky at times and causes extreme jerkiness if speed/gear is not close. I don't like it! As far as toy names, I suppose I could call my Honda the "old girl".

Yes, used motor oil works wonders for wood preservation. I use that process on the two of my trailers, even tho the wood is treated.

I have an old 2000 Honda Foreman which has been fairly trouble free all these years, with only the replacement of batteries and one cooling fan relay, and regular oil/filter changes. I have abused this machine and it has always been reliable. But, I have found that the Electric shift is quirky at times, and I really prefer the automatic shifting afforded by my Polaris and Cfmoto machines. Everybody has there own preferences. As for title, some states require it, such as Arkansas, but that is subect to waiver with only Bill of Sale and a waiver. Minnesota does NOT require a title but only a Bill of Sale for ownership transfer.

I have an older 2000 Honda 450 ES which has been a tremendous workhorse since owning it new. I'm now looking to update neglected maintenance on the machine, looking for advice initially on brake work?

Anyone with experience on relocating the miniscule battery from the front lower center wheel area to the left rear wheel area on the Polaris Sportsman 570?

Has anyone had experience with the installation of the Optional RH Side Panel Close Off Kit as shown as p/n 2207445 which is supposed to help control the heat on the right side on my legs? Right now that panel is wide open with excess heat on my leg.

The clutch engagement on my 2021 cforce 400s was approx 2700 RPM, very abrupt/not smooth. I obtained a "kit" from RNG consisting of a blue painted spring (spring force unknown) with 12 gram weights, as measured on my postal scale. Installation was easy; 18 mm and 30 mm (not 32 mm as seen on other writings) impact sockets for clutch housing removal. The resultant clutch engagement was still up to approx 2500 and very abupt/not smooth. The original spring was labeled p/n 0951-1021 (specs for spring force 300/1600) with 18 gram weights. I called RNG who told me the kit should work fine for my ATV, but that wasn't the case as I found. The RNG spring was slightly longer than the stock spring, but felt slightly easier at initial downward force but had more resistance than stock as I continued to push down. RNG would not tell me what the spring force was. I then tested the clutch with the RNG spring and the OEM 18 gram weights with the resultant engagement RPM of about 2050 RPM, a little smoother engagement but still not good. I am really struggling to get any answers on the best combination of spring / weights to achieve a smooth engagement of maybe 1800 RPM. Note; idle RPM is approx. 1600. I have searched all the forums and cannot find good information, and RNG appears to be not willing to share information. What gives here? Anyone with experience to share?

There is an O2 sensor midway between the engine and the muffler, but no secondary sensor after which means the system does not monitor the effectiveness of the catalyst. I did use a MX+ OBD Linc bluetooth enabled code reader which connected properly to the Port, but no codes (past nor current) were found set. The ATV only has 500 miles now and has shown high temps since new, now more noticable now with the 90+ temps we are seeing, and probably never noticed by me as my legs don't touch the rear fender. (Maybe the remedy is to never have the wife ride on the ATV). I have mocked up a plastic (wifes plastic thin cutting board) sheet to curve and fit over the muffler and mount to the existing mounting bolts for the existing small heat shield on the top of the muffler mounting (oviously to deflect the heat from cooking the above plastic. I have a sheet of thin aluminum to fit with the pattern and curve over the muffler with some space between aluminum and muffler surface to allow for air movement. I will also place adhesive - backed heat shield aluminized material on the underside of the rt rear fender (not sure how long it will stay in place, but is very inexpensive). Everything I read still points to the stupid EPA restrictions and the manufacturer's marginal efforts to add the non-removable honeycomb catalyst which results in high heat. I just cant imagine that other CFMoto owners are not seeing the same heat issues.....which are very numerous on the Polaris forums. I would love to hear from other CFMoto owners on their heat experience and remedies. Not sure what year CFMoto started adding the catalyst mufflers?? By the way, the muffler surface is clearly stamped that this muffler cannot be removed or modified under penalty of law with a fine up to $37,000. Go figure, as if someone was coming to get me! Sorry for long rant, but I needed to talk about it.

Not sure it is plugged?? No oil burning, just changed oil, hasn't used any since last change. As I noted from other postings the honeycomb catalyst is in the 1st 1/3 of muffler exactly where I am seeing the high temps. Free flowing exhaust as far as I can tell, no negative impact on engine performance. Thanks for offering suggestions.

Just did some internet research, and found that the Cforce muffler contains the honeycomb catalytic material in the 1st 1/3 of the muffler adjacent to the input pipe, which would explain why I am seeing the high temps (690 F) at that specific area.

Wow, just reviewed a number of "hot muffler" issues on the Polaris forum websites and I see such a similarity to my eperience with my Cforce 400 which is built similarly to the Polaris. I have no glowing red pipes, however. My Cforce exaust piping system from the engine to the muffler is very well encapsulated and insulated and I have no heat sensations on that front end. Just that stupid heat that the wife complained about and I understand why. I still think my plan for insulated aluminum shielding is the answer.

I use a simple infrared "gun" to measure the temp, may not be exact but all relative. The heat issue has been this way for a long time, I'm surprised others with this machine have not been vocal. Not sure of any "plugging" as performance of the ATV is not impacted and exhaust does not seem restricted. I do not see any red hot metal as I have seen others report on other forums. My next approach is to form a metal shield around the muffler up to the input pipe; I have already mocked up a plastic sheet and will cut a thin metal sheet to anchor at the mounting bolts on the existing muffler, and add adhesive aluminized insulation on the bottom of the right rear fender. It's a shame we have to live with pitfalls of EPA catalytic restrictions. Alternately, I am prepared to slice open a "door" on the muffler with my grinder, rip out the catalytic stuff, and simply re-weld the flap, as is sometimes done on Harley motorcycles to alleviate heat issues. Just waiting to hear from someone else who has gone this route. PS, as I stated earlier, the hottest area is near the input exhuast pipe from the engine, with heat temp tapering off till at exit point of muffler. I don't think the engine is running rich, as the plug looks normal, gas consumption is "normal", and the engine runs perfect.

Have a high heat issue on the right side panel on my 2021 cforce 400, as complained about by the wife. My heat gun shows after 15 minute ride in ambient 91 deg temps; 690 degrees on front end of muffler close to entry pipe and 375 on exit side of muffler. The right side plastic (where wife's leg would touch) was showing 175 degrees. This is rediculous!. As I understand the muffler has a built in catalytic converter which obviously kicks off high heat particularly at front end of muffler, but the heat is atrocious. What is everyone doing about this problem? Is there a replacement muffler to eliminate this issue?