mcurcio1989

The ignition wire problem is totally false. The way a solenoid works is when you send it twelve volts, via your starter button, it closes a circuit which gives continuity to the two posts (one is connected to the positive side of the battery and the other is connected to the cable that runs to the starter. The clicking is the sound it makes when it closes. This means that your problem is one of two or three things. Either your starter is bad so that the solenoid is sending 12v but it is not doing anything or your solenoid is bad so it is clicking shut but isnt actually closing the circuit so n o power is going to the starter motor. The other problem could be that your battery is dead. This is a very easy diagnosis. All you need to do is hook up jumper cables to a car battery or your atv battery. I prefer to use a different battery so that i can rule out a dead battery as an issue. So first hook up the jumper cables to a battery that you know as good such as one in your car. Now connect the positive side of the jumper cable to the post that is on the starter where the cable is bolted to. now touch the negative side of the jumper cable to the case of the starter a couple times in a couple different places. If the motor turns you have ruled out the starter. If it doesnt turn buy a new starter. If it did turn know hook the jumper cables up to the battery on your atv and do the same thing you just did. If it doesnt turn know your battery is dead and either needs charged or replaced. If it does turn than you know your solenoid is probably bad. But before replacing it go through and disconnect both of the battery terminals as well as the two big cables on the solenoid and the one at the starter. Disconnect them one at a time and sand the cable and where it screws on. If it still doesnt work it is the solenoid. Another thing you can do is touch one positive side of the jumper cables to the battery side of the solenoid and the other positive side to the starter post of the solenoid. If it turns that is verification that your solenoid is bad. Starting systems require a lot of amperage which is why they like to fail. It is about one of the easiest circuits to diagnose on a vehicle just take your time and go though trying to find where the amperage is making it to. Simply using a multimeter to test voltage doesnt tell you much since more often than not you will be getting 12v it is just not nearly enough amps so the motor wont turn. you can use a mulitmeter and check things first but all it will do is tell you if some is bad it wont tell you if it is good. Ie if you have 10v at the battery than the battery is bad but if you have 12v it may not necessarily be good. Same thing with the solenoid. If it doesnt have 12v on either post when it clicks shut than it is definately bad but if it does that doesnt necessarily mean it is good.

Okay it was the flywheel key. My conclusion is that the head gasket blew which caused it to act like it was out of gas and it prly also caused a hydrolocked condition which sheared the key. I am pretty pumped. Only problem right now is that the throttle really doesnt like returning to idle so I have to address that before it can be put in gear. Other than that she purs like a kitten and goes into all the gears just fine. The only other thing that needs fixed is one of the headlights. lol so a $10 head gasket and a $.55 woodruff key was the fix on this. Not to bad! Shes gonna be on the ice tomorrow no doubt!

I purchased this vehicle on the 4th of this month from xplorer400. Nice to see that he pretty much told me exactly what he knew about that was going on. You never know when you buy something used and not running. Lol I sort of stumbled across this post. I have gone through sort of similar things that he went through and then some. A couple things he did not know about that may thicken the plot. First thing i noticed when I got it home was that the fluid in there was not just gas. He had a fairly minor head gasket leak that was pulling coolant in and sending it out the exhaust. I dont know how long that was going on for but the cylinder had the tell tale steam cleaned look and you could also feel pressure in the radiator. He had also closed the pilot valve to a fully closed position. I am not sure if that was an effort to restrict the fuel that seamed to be flooding. There is a drain on the motor for future reference it is right above the opposite drive end of the starter motor. I rebuilt the starter which was seized but its brushes were worn to almost nothing so i just replaced it since it wasnt going to last. I have also replaced the head gasket. I have an exhaust gasket in the mail as the second one past the cylinder is missing. Oddly enough it still wont start. My next approach was the woodruff key which seams to be verified by this thread. Doing that tonight and I will give updates if it works. If this doesnt work i will be thoroughly confused.