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About archer292

  • Birthday 03/25/1966

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  1. archer292


  2. Runs perfect when it's warm. I have a new old stock yoshimura team suzuki pipe i just put on but it did it with the stock pipe too. Everything else is stock size ( Hot rod crank and bearings, new piston, rings and gaskets all stock size). I bought the bike as a project and what a project it turned out to be. The piston and ring must have just been done because the honing marks were still there in the cylinder. Same thing I was going to do before I checked the conrod small end. I used all new parts anyway. Checked the valves, all good, cleaned the carb. Runs great other than the choke thing and it starts first time all the time so far, I just have to use the throttle.
  3. On a cold start with the choke on full, the bike will start and run but only for a few seconds. Then she dies. I can use the throttle with or without the choke to keep it running but she won't run past a few seconds with the choke on alone. It will stay running after I play with the throttle for a few seconds. Just doesn't seem right. Any ideas???
  4. All done....New crank, crank bearings, timing chain, piston, rings and gaskets. Runs great, no knocks left. I am having an issue with the choke though. I'll start a new thread.
  5. Thanks for the replies. I decided to do the crank. No big bore kit for now. The crank ate the money.
  6. I tore down my top end and have come to find the ID on the small end of the crank is just at the service limit. .789.. I intended to install a big bore kit but am concerned about this measurement. All other measurements show the crank to be well inside the service limits. Should I change the crank? Can i expect failure due to the crank? I am not racing or anything, just recreational riding with my son.
  7. Put in a dynojet kit with needle, and jets. Pulled the whole thing apart cleaned and checked for any torn rubber. The slide gasket/rubber has no tears, the small diaphram on the side was fine. I did not use anything that could break off but this is not the first time somebody was in into this thing. I called dynojet and was told it had to be a vacum leak. I checked with carb cleaner and the bike running and can not make it stumble. I also changed everything from the jug to the carb cause I wanted to start fresh sort of speak.
  8. I had posted that I couldn't get rid of a hanging idle on my sons ltz 250 (with no responses I might add, tough crowd). The bike has a yoshi slip on, k&n filter with open air box, 22.5 pilot jet and 138 main jet (now). I couldn't get rid of the hanging idle with out changing the pilot jet. The bike runs great now but the only way it will idle correctly is with the fuel screw bottomed out. As soon as I try to open the fuel screw I get too far into the idle screw to keep it running and then the problems are back. The bike idles nicely around 1500, accelerates great and the plug looks to be burning perfectly. I just don't get why if I open the fuel screw letting in more fuel then why would the idle die and come back when I up the idle screw. Seems that both are adding fuel correct? I also went back to the size 20 pilot to see if i could richen it up enough to idle but couldn't get it to idle without the hanging until I put the 22.5 back in and bottomed out the fuel screw. Can someone shed some light on this???? Thanks in advance.
  9. I can't get my sons ltzs carb adjusted properly. The carb has been cleaned and re jetted as per the dynojet instructions and i still have the hanging idle. I can get the idle to come down quickly but only by lowering the idle to a point to where it won't stay running. As soon as I raise the idle to anywhere betwen 1250 and 1500 the hanging idle is back. The bike revs up fine and then just won't return to the set idle without hanging at higher rpms for a bit. Every shift is like power or speed shifting. I have tried numerous jets and adjusting the fuel screw with no luck. Any insite would be appreciated. Thanks.
  10. There was a 138 main jet and 20 pilot jet. After a little more searching it looks like it was jetted to run with a modified box and the slip on. I found this out after installing a stock rebuild kit. So now I am at a 125-126 ( that's what was printed on the main) and the 20 pilot. The bike has a yoshimura slip on and I guess I'm going to be too lean the way it is now. I orderd a Dynojet kit which is what I should have done first. I am not looking for this bike to have every last drop of power just yet. It is my sons first quad of his own and it is much bigger than what he is used too. I'm still a litle confused about the "hanging idle" as the bike was running very rich and so far what I have read says that too lean was the culprit. Can you tell me what the third jet is for? I can't make out a number on it but in the schematic it as listed as a main jet( part number 17) with a note. The only thing is the schematic doesn't have the note. Also should I run it with the stock jet first and see what I have or is that a waste of time? I don't want it to be too lean. Thanks for the help so far. Anthony
  11. I didn't check the jet size. What should it be or rather what is the stock size? I'll take it off again today and check. I guess I should back it down to three turns if 5 is way too much. I'll look for a shop manual today also.
  12. I just purchased a used z250 as a Christmass present for my son and it seems that it has some carb problems. Any help to get this figured out would be much appreciated. The vacum line was plugged and it would only run on prime when i got it. Seems the petcock needed to be replaced and this was the way to make it run without replacing it. This was done by a shop for the previous owner and I only learned of it after purchasing the quad and questioning the seller. A new petcock was installed and that's where I come in. The previous owner never had the job finished. So I pulled the carb cleaned everything, set the adjustment screw in the bowl to 3 turns out, reinstalled it and checked for vacum leaks. The bike will start right up and run pretty good but the problem is with the idle. When I use the idle adjustment screw to get the idle where it sounds good and then rev the bike up it hangs at a high idle before settling back down. The only way to get it to settle faster is to lower the idle adjust ment screw, but then the idle is too low. I have tried 3 turns out on the screw in the carb ( not the idle), 4 turns out, and now 5 turns out. At 5 turnsout and fiddling with the idle screw, I can get a decent idle and she will hang very slightly then come down. The hanging occurs when you rev it up and keep it up for a few seconds Not if you are snapping the throttle. Can someone help me out with this? Is the idle hanging normal? I have a 80 honda dirt bike for my son and ride a bike myself and this is not something I can say I have heard before. Thanks for any help in advance. Anthony

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