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About chadh

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    Forum Beginner
  • Birthday 06/24/1980
  1. Well this is the direction I am headed. I found one of the four of the brush wires broken and the other three had broken strands. Rebuild or buy new?
  2. Update-not sure why I did not try this before. I pulled the plug and just cranked it while against the case (before I was using an inline spark plug checker) and had spark. I had a spare plug so I installed it but left the lead on the plug grounded on the case, and had no spark. So the engine cranks a bit slower when it is compression and therefore not spinning the engine fast enough for the crankshaft sensor and cdi, this is what I am guessing. I will check the starter connections tomorrow and make sure they are clean. Also, will check resistance on the cables. When a starter wears out could
  3. Thanks for the reply Mike, Correct me if I am wrong (and I maybe), 12volt (battery voltage) is what is provided to the primary side of the ignition coil. Power + is coming through the ignition relay-fuse-to coil primary +. Then the Ground - comes from the CDI, I am guessing that the CDI uses the ground as the "signal" wire to spark the plug (removed the ground, primary field collapse then secondary field collapse and released high voltage for spark). Now when cranking battery voltage is always at coil, shouldn't it be opening and closing as it is cranking, based on position sensor?
  4. Finally got back to this project, sorry for the delay. You need to be able to first measure the position sensor's output when your cranking and when it finally starts, does the voltage change? 2.3Volts AC when cranking / will not start at all now, guess this is good at least it is hard failed. Next, check the primary side of the coil, the procedure is in the manual as well, but you need a meter that can record the peak voltage since its not a constant output. Primary side 197ohms / there is battery voltage when key is on, drops down to 10.8 Volts DC when cranking. I think I maybe mis
  5. Hi Mike, Reading on the coil did not include the plug cap, the cap did check good on its own. I replacement coil did not include the plug cap. I have a spark checker in line, when it wont start it does not have spark or very week spark. When it does start after it is running it has a very strong spark, why would it change that much? It is a new battery and voltage stays up. I have even tried keeping it on a battery tender to make sure battery is topped off. How does the position sensor trigger the spark, if it is only putting out 2 volts and should be 5 volts is this going to
  6. I have had this ATV since new, and no work done on the system before. It has an intermittent issue with starting for years but getting worse. Cranks but no start or have to cycle power. No Codes. There are times it starts right up and then times it will not start at all. What I have done, new plug, new battery, new coil. Also, the manual I have has spec info for the H1 & H2, but when I check ohms & AC voltage & wire color, it is more in line with the H2 than H1. Ok here is what I have done. 1. new plug then new battery. 2. checked and replaced the coil- prima

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