Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Recommended Posts

Help!

Have an 02 Kawasaki Prairie 650.I replaced the belt & when I put everything back together the 2wd-4wd lights would flash back & forth.

I read how to reset light,but my ATV doesnt have the black & gray wire connectors where they are supposed to be.

Anyone know how to reset lights on this model?:confused:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • 1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) Runs Bad

      Hey I have a 97 bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) that i bought for 1000 last June and sunk another 1000 into it already.  When i went to look at it, the seller had warmed it up before hand (he was riding it when I got there).  it ran good so i bought it and took it home that evening... next morning it wouldn't hardly start.  I discovered the carb was clogged, there was chunks of rust in the fuel valve, the choke lever was missing and other things.  I have since cleaned the carb and replaced the fuel valve and gas lines and cleaned out the gas tank and cap.   Enough background on it, the problem is this:  It floods if i push it past half throttle in 4th and 5th gear even going downhill and shifting correctly.  It also has to idle and warm up when you first start it which is really annoying now that its cold...  It also smokes blue smoke for about 15 seconds when started cold-  does not smoke at all once warm but the exhaust still smells like burnt metal.  A friend told me that it didn't have enough compression.  I also found out that the valves are a common cause for low compression on Kawasakis..  I have never adjusted valves before-  the most I've ever got into a engine was a head gasket on a riding mower so I'm new to this.  My goal is to get this bike running and starting cold like a top-  should i tear down and rebuild the top end?  What should i try first?  I tore the carb apart and rebuilt it and fiddled with the air screw and nothing changed.  I also ordered a compression test kit that should be coming in soon. Ive also considered just selling it for like $500 and taking the hit-  Id rather not sink too much more into this machine..  lol

      By JacobSlabach, in Kawasaki ATV Forum

        
      • 207 replies
      • 1,952 views
    • New to atv's Looking for help on a Kawasaki Bayou 220

      I am new to atv's but not to mechanical work.  I was given a 2001 Kawasaki Bayou 220.  It looks to have a locked up engine.  I am going to tear down the top end and take photos. of the tear down as I go.  Anyone have any suggestion?

      By viper0906, in New Members Area!

      • 2 replies
      • 89 views
    • 2001 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Engine Locked Up

      Need help with teardown of 2001 Bayou 220.  New to atv's but not to mechanical work.  I was given this ATV and went to turn engine over by pull rope and the engine is locked up.  Pulled spark plug no change.  Was going to tear down top end.  Any suggestions or tricks before I proceed?

      By viper0906, in Kawasaki ATV Forum

        
      • 8 replies
      • 127 views
    • 1999 kawasaki bayou won't crank

      I picked up a 99 bayou 220 a couple years ago for cheap, put it back together as a beater for my son. He rides the hell out of it. A couple weeks ago it won't crank, push the button it does nothing. He's been pull starting it. I can jump across the two large terminals on the solenoid, basically going straight to the starter, and it starts fine. How do I test the solenoid? There are only 3 wires, 1 hot, 1 ground, I thought the last one was the trigger but apparently not. Any ideas? Thanks

      By wvhylander, in Kawasaki ATV Forum

      • 12 replies
      • 118 views
    • 1985 Kawasaki KXT250 Tecate ATC Service Manual Supplement

      View File 1985 Kawasaki KXT250 Tecate ATC Service Manual Supplement 1985 Kawasaki KXT250 Tecate ATC Service Manual Supplement Submitter Maggie Hall Submitted 11/26/2018 Category Kawasaki ATV  

      By Maggie Hall, in Kawasaki ATV Forum

        
      • 0 replies
      • 45 views
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By chuckcnm
      Hi, just picked up a MOTO 4 YFM255 and want to replace the rear brake pads. How do I get to the back. Guessing I need to remove the brake disk, question any easy way to do this?
      Thanks
    • By Billie
      :confused:need a repair manual or help in what to look for thank you Bill
      for you muddober to make clear to you the neutral light and the gear light
      do not light up win shifting fuses are good Iuse my CAt for hunting im dissable the atv is my leag s thank you
    • By suthernboy60
      Since I am not much of a mechanic simple things confuse me. How do you remove the old brake cable for the pedal brake from the frame? Thought I could just pry it out but no luck and not much room to work. Any help is appreciated.
    • By toonces
      Long story short I had to disconnect my right front caliper to do some other work and now that it's all back together I need to refill and bleed that brake line. First time doing this and to the best of my knowledge the only two 'line ends' I'll need to work with are my right handlebar reservoir and the bleed valve on the caliper itself. Considering the caliper I took off are there any other parts on the bike besides these I need to be concerned about?
      Now insofar as back bleeding vs. top down bleeding goes...I understand that since bubbles rise, only doing a top down bleed leaves open the possibility of leaving some bubbles in the vertical brake line. But since the bleed valve on the caliper is an inch or more above where the banjo bolt brake fluid lines comes in (on my bike anyway) you would have to do at least some top down bleeding to make sure all the bubbles escape from the caliper out the higher positioned bleed valve. Together these two ideas imply that it might be best to do both some top down and bottom up bleeding. Any thoughts?
      Anybody have a somewhat educated idea of how quickly air bubbles rise in the vertical line between the caliper banjo bolt and the handle? If they rise slowly enough seems like it would be possible to bleed the whole thing by doing only a top down.
    • By toonces
      Really don't like the idea of wearing a helmet but for safety's sake I cant justify flying down a dirt road at 45 without wearing one, so I'm wondering what's a good helmet to get for someone who doesn't want a helmet on at all. Light weight would be a priority as well as open face.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×