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By Frank Angerano
So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”.
Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for.
1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color.
2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you.
3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running)
4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks.
5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck.
5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath.
7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart.
8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart.
9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material.
10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up.
11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it
12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike .
All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems.
I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence!
I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
By tom reed
May be some of you guys can help me, I've got a 1990 honda four trax 2 wheel drive, the top end has been completely rebuilt. When I bought it barely ran, so I had everything redone BUT, it shifts good until the motor gets up to running temp and it starts getting hard to shift and the longer you run it the worse it gets, it will get so bad that it is almost impossible to get it into reverse. Does anyone know what wrong?
By Matt Pfalzer
I have only been riding for a few years now but encountered a situation today where I needed to tow a riding lawn mower out of a ditch. It was going well but I had to stop in the middle and place the 4 wheeler in park to turn the wheels on the lawn mower so it would glide out of the slope easily. I am wondering if it is going to cause damage with all of that weight resting on the transmission when I had the 4 wheeler in park. It was only for about 45 seconds, then I got back on and tugged it the rest of the way. This 4 wheeler doesn't have a parking break so that wasn't an option.
How do I replace the pinion clutch shaft in a 1987 Suzuki LT230 quadrunner? It starts up on the first kick but when I put it in gear it wants to kick up. I can give it gas and put it in gear but my clutch lever isn’t doing anything. SOS
The bike will go into gear after monkeying with the shift lever but then it's slow to engage. Feels like the clutch is weak. I've pulled the belt cover off and belt looks fine. Should i pull the sheave and regrease roller weights? change Trans fluid? Anyone had this issue?
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By Jeff Wharton
I have a 2000 Arctic Cat 300 4 wheeler. I have been having some carburetor issues. So i bought a new carb. Now I'm having these issues. The unit will start and idle fine, when i go to accelerate it wants to cut off. So i checked to make sure it was getting gas and the fuel filter will be full of gas and then once the carb opens the filter drains down and will not refill quick enough to run. So i checked to make sure gas was flowing to the filter and it is flowing fine through the line. I remove the filter and run the gas line directly to the carb and the engine idle fine and then it will run good as i ride it for about 10 minutes then it will start with the same issues again i cannot accelerate enough to move the 4 wheeler. Every time i accelerate the unit will cut off. What is wrong with this thing. My 400 Arctic Cat is doing the same thing except it will backfire, I'm lost i have tried everything i know to do, what am i missing here. Thanks for your help
I’m looking for new replacement shocks (front & rear.) on my 1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4. New OEM shocks are upwards of $400. I haven’t pulled the rims off to check the eyelet to eyelet length but I’m hoping an expert on this site does know( I called Kawasaki direct yesterday and they were of know help.) Any technical help would be appreciated. TY fellow members. Vic
Hello, how are you'ns doing? I'm in the process of tearing my Kawasaki Bayou down to fix a rattling noise and an oil leak. I'll probably be asking questions about this project. My step-son has an Arctic Cat 300, he was riding yesterday and when he turned it off it was running fine, but it won't do anything. The lights come on but it won't turn over or anything. Does anyone have any ideas on what might be wrong? TIA
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