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By Jeff Miller
I'm trying to troubleshoot a starting issue. For a while, maybe a year sometimes I would hit the starter button and I'd hear a single loud click, but the starter wouldn't turn. Usually if I could pull the pull start or roll it in gear it would then start. (now I'm thinking that was coincidence) Now it only clicks. I tried to check what I could, battery is good, solenoid clicks strong, cleaned all connections (which were 80% clean anyway). I started thinking the starter wasn't spinning. I pulled it and it spins freely. The gear that it contacts in the engine-I can wiggle it maybe 1/16th to 1/8th inch back and forth. When I reinstall the starter I feel it jerk when I hit the button. I'm thinking maybe it's the starter clutch? It seems when there's a problem with them they usually just spin freely and don't engage at all. Is it possibly something is causing it to lock? I'm a bit lost now.
By Sled Dog
Hello Team! Hopefully someone can help me. I've been to the Suzuki forum and its pretty dead. I should have been on this site a while ago as I own a Canam, Hondas and a RZR!
Anyways issue is the ATV won't start. Friend gave it to me to try get running. They installed a Amazon carb and machine did the same thing. This machine has 1100 miles and is not beat. Appears to have led a gentle life.
So the first thing I did was ask for the original carb. They do have and brought it over. But first I changed out all the old gas and put new in. Got it to start but would not idle. But could ride it around yard. Its a manual, went through all 5 gears. Runs like normal but would not idle.
So I got a Shindy rebuild kit and rebuilt the original carb. Reinstalled and almost the same thing. Starter spins and it tries to catch but doesn't until it does. Then it seems to run ok. Idles high but after a while it will go down.
So I take tank off and give a very good cleaning. Took off the fuel petcock. All looks good. No fuel in the vacuum line so I believe its working as it should. Cleaned carb again. Adjusted valves. Did not need. Reinstalled everything and same exact thing. Spins like a maniac for 10 or more seconds before it will start.
Spark plug is black. Brand new one too. I checked the spark and did not see any. Googled how to do it and I was doing it right, tried again, now I have spark. Hmmm. Kept checking and always had it.
My battle plan now is to clean the Amazon (Chy-na) carb and install that one. If it does the same exact thing I'll figure its not the carb. If it does something different this will tell me nothing as I don't trust the Amazon carbs!
But now I've read that these models Eigers have issues with the fly wheel magnets coming loose. And affecting spark. Anyone know if this sounds right? Maybe if the spark is out of time it makes it harder to start but once started the running engine can overcome that?
Oh yeah, compression is 130, spec is 142. Not sure I trust my Harbor frieght compression tester though. I'm bringing it to work to get the gauge calibrated.
Sorry so long winded but I like to give all the details I can for the people in the know! Anything anyone can suggest I do? Thanks for your time!
Similar Tagged Content
Hi, me and my friend were out and riding the other day and filmed some so I tried to do an edit from the videos that I got. So this is my first ATV edit and I need you guys to tell me what I can improve in my filming and editing. Please give rewarding comments!
1983 Yamaha YT175
Fired up for the first time after total rebuild. Now I have no idea whats going on. Compression is 120, new plug, new fuel and oil lines, new choke and fresh fuel. Carb cleaned and reeds are good (no gaps).
Will not start without choke and stalls out when choke is off. Played with choke adjustment and doesn't change.
It fires up first pull and only idles if I play with idle screw. As soon as I touch throttle, it goes bezerk on me and I have to shut it down as you can see in video .......
You can here the recoil lever tinging in the video. I lost the spring. D"oh!!
So far I have swapped ignition coil, spark plug, CDI with no change. I have removed flywheel to check keyway and it is where it should be.
Checked resistance on stator ... I get 10ohms +/- 10% on pickup coil within specs as per manual and I get 273ohms on charge coil. Manual states 300ohms +/- 10%, so that is also within spec.
I have also swapped out jet needle and played around with different settings. Eventually I put it back to the 3rd line.
The engine already has new seals and bearing so I am completely baffled as to what I am missing here.
Any and all suggestions will be appreciated.
I have also swapped carbs from a running YT175. Same results.
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