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By Dwight Williams
Ok, so I bought a 2006 bayou 250 for 200 bucks, kid couldn't start it and had no idea why it wouldn't run, I pulled the rope and felt what I thought was valve to piston contact, he wanted 500 and I talked him down to 200 and brought it home. Sure enough, timing was way far out, timing chain incredibly loose. So for fun I re-tensioned the timing chain and re timed it, got about 120lbs of compression, pretty low. I cannot get the chain very tight but the the tensioner seems to work fine, the chain guides don't look very worn. Also, when I took the head off the valves don't look bent and the piston has no discernible marks on it. Is this an interference engine? I sure thought I felt some contact with the pull rope but maybe no permanent damage was done? Anyway, I plan on doing a full top end job as well as timing chain tensioners and hopefully that'll cure it. Is there any reason other than chain stretch (I measured it and it's ok) or guide wear that would cause the chain to be so loose? Thanks!
By Scott Sirr
I need to figure out how to clean/fix or replace my neutral switch assembly On my 2008 Yamaha big bear 400 as generally the neutral light doesn’t come on when it is in neutral. To get it to come on I have to wiggle the foot shifter and hold it in just the right spot.
I have googled it and can’t find much on the 400’s. I can’t find a service manual online and the parts manual is super vague.
I think it is in the right side engine cover area, but not certain.
Any help would be great. thanks
I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
the flywheel into the center of the hole.
Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
I hope this helps!
Well its finally happened, its time to replace the belt on my 2011 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. Is there anything specific i need to know before getting into it? Is there one brand of belt i should get over another? I'm still on my first Polaris and plan to keep it at least another 8 years.
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It's time to replace the shocks and struts. Looking for some stiffer springs than the OEM as I use this for farm work and I put heavy loads on the rear and haul small trailers frequently. I've seen a couple aftermarket offerings that say they're 10% or so heavier duty. Any other options for something a little stronger / stiffer? Thanks.
The saga of the fan continues.
The Pin attempt in the fan shaft failed. I then moved on to trying to weld the fan hub to the fan shaft. I took it for a run the weld broke. Now it was truly F'ed. To recap the dealer price, they want $400 + CND for a replacement fan assembly.
I searched all sorts of after market places and no one carried one. Ebay had some used ones but they were $120 USD + Conversion rate for something as old as what I have. I went to Amazon and eventually settled on this.
What I found... and was amazed... was that the fan mounted to the Suzuki fan assembly bracket. I was prepared to manufacture my own mount conversions... It also came with "Harpoon mounts" (nylon zip tie like things that go straight through the rad. Anyways it mounted to the original bracket. It fit perfectly. Cut the electrical plug off replaced it with the Suzuki... all good. Let the quad heat up, thermo coupler kicked in the fan circuit, polarity was right... all was good.... Fan is under the circuit fuse rating.
so I finally have a solid fan solution. $34 CND vs $400+ CND
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