Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
I'm looking to replace the hub bearings on my 400 trv . I was wondering it anyone had any experience with this machine ? That cold point me in the right direction as far as if the bearings nedd to be pressed in and out and if so how the did it . Special tools pullers etc . Thanks
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
Similar Tagged Content
By Anthony Marceau
Hi everyone! I have a 1986 yamaha moto4 200 that's been sitting for a while! Cleaned the carb, replaced engine oil, put fresh gas in it. Got it running and went for a ride! It was running great just a little backfire once in a while! I barely made it home on the way back and now the bike won't run at all since then! It will start if I give a little bit of throttle but dies instantly as soon as I let go off the throttle! And even if I try to rev it up it'll sound like its not getting enough gas.. it revs up a couple hundred rpm's and backfires through the carb.. it almost sounds as if I was trying to take off from zero in 5th gear! Nothing is seized though! I dissasembled the head and the piston and cylinder are fine! Rebuilt the carb, replaced the ignition source coil.. I don't know what to do anymore.. compression test shows 90 psi Specs are 128 psi but i'm not sure if I trust my compression tester.. any ideas? Thanks!!
Im working on a old 1987 honda 125 4 wheeler in the school shop. It will start by getting pulled by another 4 wheeler but wont start with the pull start or Electric Start. When you pull start it it tries to start but when you try the electric start it just turns over but doesnt even act like it wants to start. The spark plug is dry and it shoots fuel out of the back(air filter side) of the carb. Weve had the carb off twice and it is complety clean. What are some things we can try?
I bought a Honda 250sx 1986 but the exhaust is broken. Apparently it's not possible to order a new one. I checked to order one on others compagny but there's noting.
Do you know which exhaust it's possible to install. Is there a company who sold an exaust to fit on my 250sx.
Sorry for my english
Hope someone can help with this one.
We took our 1984 Honda TRX 200 to the shop and they had it for about 2 weeks before they finally called and said that they had cleaned the carb and changed the battery and that it had started up.
We went and got it and when we got home it would not start so we called them, they said bring it back in, so we did. They called us the next day and said they changed the spark plug, and that it was running. We went and got it again and it ran when we drove it off the truck.
We parked it for about an hour because we were going to get ready to go on a ride. Well, it wouldnt start again.
So we called them and they said the last thing they could do was order a new CDI box and put that on. I decided to just buy it myself, so I didnt have to pay them labor again. We put the new one on today and its still not starting.
Does anyone have any ideas on what we could check to see what in the world is going on with this thing?
Please and Thank you
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.