dieseljeeper
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If you are filling the crankcase with fuel Id first make sure the petcock is shutting off. I had a similar problem with a Honda 400 that I bought with a fuel problem, you could clean up the carb and ride it for a day and the carb would start filling the crankcase. It had set with ethanol fuel for a couple of years and the petcock itself had began toi dissolve. It sounds like you are chasing the same gremlin
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1996 Polaris Sportman 4X4 AWD stoped working
dieseljeeper replied to Jimc's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
howdy, sorry about taking so long but have been away. What sounds like is your hlr switch which is located inside the shifter itself is the culprit. If you take the shifter off and split it you will find the hlr switch which is activated by a plastic arm that fits into a roll pin. Ohm this out with a multimeter and chances are youll find that it isnt seeing forward gear. If it checks out take a look for slop in your linkage. The switch isnt available any longer and to bypass it hook the grey and white wire from your terminal board to the red/white terminal on the board. This will power up the switch so awd will be controlable with the switch. Hope this helps and its good to see someone else is still riding "the older bikes" -
Just saw your post, did you get your fuel problem solved? I have a 96 400 Sport (2wd) that had the same thing going on, it ha set for a couple of years, carb cleaned, new needle and seat, new jets, later a new float, same problem. It turned out that the ethanol dissolved the insides of the vinyl fuel lines and it was sending little pieces by the filter into the carb. Replaced lines, problem solved
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After rereading your post one other problem youre having that is pretty common with those, hard shifting. First thing to check is remove he triangle shaped cover behind the right foot pedal, start it up and apply the foot brake. If it doesnt stop the trans it will be really hard to shift. When you apply the pedal if it stops the trans and the engine stalls you then need to move to the clutches and belt. They are kinda like a chainsaw in that you want the idle low enough that the secondary clutch is barely turning and on that model you want to use the foot pedal to shift and be completely off the throttle
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It sounds like your rev limiter thinks its in reverse. On the left handle bar at the bottom of the control there is an override button that bypasses it. Try pushing it while in forward, if it clears up then you either have a problem with the HLR switch located in the shifter or the ETC switch located inside the throttle control. One other question, how is your battery? I have a 96 400l sport that my wife or middle grand daugter rides. When the battery was junk and you had to pull start it no problem. After putting a new starter and battery in the reverse switch/rev limiter reared its ugly head. If you bypass the rev limiter and you break a throttle cable it will go to wide open throttle instantly. Forunately I was riding it with it bypassed unfortunatly I was on a steep, narrow muddy trail and got in some bench pressing action. Be warned!
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Anyone out there with a mz100atv? If so, are parts available outside of Europe?
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I did a premature button push, its a senior thing. The other thing might work is drill a hole down through the screw slightly larger than he hole, thn use a left hand drill bit 1/32" bigger VERY SLOWLY. drill through again. If everything works like it is supposed to the first pass will heat everything up enough that when the left hand bit starts though and grabs, which it will, the screw will back out. What happens if you hurry the process or dont have a reversible drill that can run really slow you will break the bit in the screw, causing you to speculate about the relationship I had with my mother or mothers in ganeral and you will have a much bigger dilema
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understood. What has worked for me has been soak in penetraing oil, preferrably kroil, then put the cylinder on a hardwood block and rap straight down on it with a small hammer a couple of times. It sometimes takes a couple of times but usually works. the other two options that come to mind would be to drill the screws out in small increments until youre close to the outside diameter, keeping in mind that the bleeders seal on a taper at the bottom, then using an eazy out . Good luck
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The other option might be to use some from a newer trx, have been in your position a lot as all the machines I own are older and one is old and built in eastern Europe. It is becoming a joint effort between Hungary and Spanaway, Washington. It is good to see you're keeping the old iron running! I do it because of redneck engineering and an Amish budget
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are your calipers missing? You can get rebuild kits from moose racing or quad boss.
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try bikebandit or rocky mountain.
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howdy, new here but with a diesel and truck I think I like it! I have a 6.7l powerstroke that replaced my 95 7.3 that I sold my son. I also have a 1953 m38 a1 that I powered with a Kubota v2203di diesel out of a carrier reefer. I added a Borg Warner k03 turbo and a WRX intercooler. Im running a SM465 trans, d18 transfer case, d44 lrear with an old style detroit locker (noisy), disc brakes on all 4 and a d30 in front with a powerlock. It is a work in progress. Right now the body is off getting the new floors and hat channels when it was built the first time.
