Quantcast
Jump to content

BRP Can Am Rally


Jteam

Recommended Posts

Picked up a non running Rally awhile back. Didn't realize it was a white elephant. Only made for about 4 years. The card was so degraded that the jet towers were crumbling. Turns out that card was only produced for that single engine, which was only produced for those few years. What a nightmare. I have tried several generic carbs and it has been a tuning nightmare. It runs and is a strong little machine that is perfectly sized for teenagers, but man I am turning grey trying to get it running right.  Anyone have any experience with this model?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It’s a 2005. I used generic carbs. First was a flat slide type PWK in 26 or 28mm (can’t recall) but I believe it was too big. Been told those flow a lot more air and I couldn’t even get the jets close to right on that one. Second was a generic PE24. The original was a 24mm. I’ve tried a lot of jet configurations and got this one pretty close but it stumbles in the mid range. I can get the stumble out but then it stumbles on the high end.

Bad news is this carb’s float got stuck the last two nights I worked on it. I corrected though. The needle was sticking in the float tab and causing it to stick. However, I was tuning it last night and noticed the engine was getting a bit noisier (it’s a total and they all seem noisy) than usual and checked the oil. Dang crankcase is full of fuel and oil mixture. Next I’ll drain and refill and cross fingers it’s not damaged before I tune it more.

I’m leaning towards using another PWK but in 21mm. Thinking if the PWK’s flow more than average air so it may equal the original 24 round slide.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did an oil change. Don’t seem to have any after effects from the fuel in the crankcase. Played with the jets some more and have it the best it’s been so far. 38 pilot and a 135 main IIRC. Now the midrange is stumbling. I’m not giving up! My older son keeps saying “sell it”! I do not like being whipped by something I’m sure I can resolve


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are filling the crankcase with fuel Id first make sure the petcock is shutting off. I had a similar problem with a Honda 400 that I bought with a fuel problem, you could clean up the carb and ride it for a day and the carb would start filling the crankcase. It had set with ethanol fuel for a couple of years and the petcock itself had began toi dissolve. It sounds like you are chasing the same gremlin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Bobbywolf
      I am working on a basket case for a friend.  It is a 98 Big Bear (YFM350FWB).  It came with a parts machine which is a 96, which I am coming to find out is VERY different from his machine.
       
      Anyway, first thing is first.  I checked compression, 150psi.  Valves are set correctly, and the engine is in time.  I cleaned the carb, and there was some junk in the passages.  It is a chinese carb, which I figured from the lack of markings or lettering altogether.
       
      The bike runs.  It idles ok, but breaks up badly under acceleration.  Pulling a new spark plug shows it is running lean.  White strap, with no black whatsoever.  So I have the carb adjusted with the mixture screw out way too much (about 5 turns), and the diaphragm needle lifted to the top slot.  It is still not getting enough fuel (or too much air).  It backfires through the carb, and cannot get above idle without carrying on.  The carb boot is in good shape, so it isn't pulling any air there.  I did test this as well by spraying ether around the boot when running, looking for intake leaks.
       
      Anything big I am missing here?  I am starting to believe that this chinese carb is the issue.  This quad came with the original carb, which I would like to rebuild and use, but the mixture screw is totally stuck, and stripped way down in its recess.  
       
      Thanks for any assistance.
    • By p5200
      I'm assuming, it's alright to test the engine after adjusting valves without the rear axle installed? Can someone please verify this? I'm waiting on axle parts and wanting to get that done while waiting. Thanks! 🙂
    • By Werewolf
      My wheeler originally had a fuel leak.But on trying to start it no spark. Took front end off, when I try to start it I get one spark then nothing. Come back a while latter one spark,replaced coil and cdi box no help?
    • By WyattLemke25
      Working on a 2016 Sportsman 570 and it has a new battery and spark plug. No codes, fuses all look good. It cranks for a while and when it starts it will only run for a few seconds before stalling. At one point it was running at 3000 rpm with no throttle input, then it dies. Not sure where to look besides messing with the throttle cable, so suggestions are appreciated, Thanks. 
    • By 97kingquad
      I have been rebuilding some ATVs in my spare time and teaching myself along with the help from the internet how an engine works and getting bikes running again is quite enjoyable. I even built an arctic cat 300 4x4 from two parts bikes the had seized motors and missing parts. It was pretty enjoyable. 
       
      So I am now working on a sazuki quadrunner 300 1992 which had a whole list of issues when I got it. I have fixed almost everything I need to in order to get this bike running. But something is going on inside the head or crankcase. 
      I had to replace the timing chain because it was very stretched due to the previous owner.
       
      What the issue was, the timing chain was off the sprocket inside the engine due to it being stretched it slipped off. So the previous owner rebuilt the top end thinking it would fix it which it may have temporarily, but when doing so they welded an extra inch onto the tensioner to hold the chain tight. Which as you can imagine caused a dozen other issues.
      So that stretched the chain to the point where I could remove the cam with the tensioner in.
      It beat the sliders all to hell. Destroyed the cylinder housing and obviously ruined the tensioner. 
      I didn't realise all of this until after I rebuilt the engine.  I noticed wear where the timing chain runs through the cylinder. I found the cam had no retaining chair, or clip whatever you want to call it so the cam was beat to sh** also. It had almost an inch of play side to side.
      So I pulled the head off of my parts bike and fixed all of it. Then put it together and went to pull it over and found it was not on the sprocket (this is when I realised that all that damage and the welded tensioner was because the timing chain had been off the sprocket) 
      So I pulled the stator cover off and pulled the flywheel (which I should add to get at the stator cover I have to remove the rear tire and a arm as well as remove the bolt through the front of the engine. And the exhaust system has to be removed to pull the cylinder as the exhaust guard is bolted to the side of the timing chain tensioner. Stupid setup. Glad the king quad doesn't have that. 
      So I got everything apart and the flywheel off. New timing chain (nice and tight now) put the head back together and flywheel but it is quite hard to turn the engine over. I can but with difficulty. When the valve cover was off it seemed to spin much more freely. Before I tear everything back apart and start again any ideas on what it is? 

×
×
  • Create New...