Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey everyone. I have been having problems with my KQ staying running. Starting at the top, the battery is dead so I pull start it. I have a new one but don't want to install it until I get this figured out. I have to put it on full choke to start it or it'll barely turn over. Once it starts it idles for 3 to 5 seconds and dies. I have replaced the spark plug, torn down and cleaned the carb. Torn down and cleaned the fuel valve, cleaned the air filter. I'm out of ideas and need some help.

Posted

Sounds to  me  a second  tear down  and cleaning of the  carb is in  order. Check the   float height  setting. Make  sure it  is  not  binding and the  needle moves  freely.  It appears  the  motor  is starving  for  gas.  Check  the  idle  jet setting,   and  its  air jet for it  for  obstruction.I  did  a search on your  carb  and I see  it  has a vacuum  operated  secondary throttle control so a careful  check  of the  diaphragm  is  in order too. Also  check  the  carb to  block connection for   air  leaks.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By LMI
      Hi all.  New to the forum & quads.  Seems like a great place full of info.
      I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700.  I need a battery.  I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types.  I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire.  RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140.  Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
      from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS.  How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
      And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
    • By rjsummer
      Just picked up an 84 LT185 ATV, I understand there was an accessory add  on that gave it electric start, anyone have any info about that kit? 
    • By Rockbottom
      2008 400 big bear was running now will not start
      have power to relay, in neutral, press start have power to starter but nothing happens starter does not turn
      i have good ground at battery to frame and added ground from wire harness to frame beside batter/ frame ground
      blue white wire to cdi has power with key on
      I believe the neutral lock out is working since is was before i shut it down
      if i put  it in gear and hit the start button with key on the relay does not click or send power the starter
      The 3 wires at the relay have power with key on
      What should i test next?
      thanks ahead
    • By Mister907
      Hi guys, I have a 2004 big bear 400. Last winter while plowing the driveway, I heard a loud pop from the left side of the engine. It continued to run as I looked for leaky fluid, but then died shortly after backing it up and won’t start now. The oil light comes on when I try to start it, no noise or anything else. 
      No blown fuses that I can find.
    • By Jdeaton011989
      Hi all. I have a timberwolf 250 2nd that will not start.. I thought it was out of time bc the guy I got it from said it just quit on him. The tensioner had a nut welded to it and it was like2 teeth off. I installed new tensioner and chain and it still will not start. It has fire and it will not hit off brake cleaner. It has compression. Haven't put a gauge but I'm sure it will crank and run with what it has. I double checked my work and it's still in time. Spot on. Both valves move. I'm about to put a feeler gauge on them and I'll cone back but other than that any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...