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Several months ago, I finally got around to fixing the bayou. Rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel selector switch, hoses and fuel filter, and she ran great. Only had 2 minor issues since then where, at higher speeds, it acted like it was choking out when I let off the throttle.
Lately I've noticed if I let it go for more than a week, it almost drains the battery dead trying to start. I initially thought battery, but after inspecting I found very little if not any fuel flow through the line until it starts and runs.
I'm a little baffled and don't have much time to mess with it as most my free time right now is spent on getting my rv up and ready for hunting season in the next 3 weeks. So any help on quick diagnosis checks would be helpful. Otherwise I'll just keep starting it every 3-4 days to keep things primed until I'm done hunting.
Oh, and another question on a different topic. Does anybody know what the mounting brackets on the front rack are for? I'm referring to the 2 angled metal tabs with threaded holes that are located on the left, near your knee when sitting on the quad?
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By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
When it comes to adding more power to your ATV, the first thing that usually comes to mind is bolting on a slip-on exhaust. However, that usually means you are also bolting on a lot more noise. HMF do...
Just picked an '03 Bayou 300 2WD. It runs ok, needs a little help though. Maybe someone can answer some questions for me.
1. The choke "off" position is the lever all the way right, correct?
2. The choke seems mechanically... funky. It has a little valve clamp around the rubber boot where it goes into the carb, seems kind of janky, I don't think there's typically a valve clamp on that part? The engine seems like its running really rich, smoking a bit, so I wonder if I can just completely remove the choke cable to see if that's part of the issue? But I don't fully understand the choke needle setup. Is "choked" when the needle is being pushed in, or pulled out? Like it I chopped the cable just outside the rubber boot by the carb, would I be permanently choking it or permanently unchoking it.
3. I've read that I can tweak the air/fuel screw and maybe fix the rich mix. Where is that even located, and if it's behind a cap that I have to drill out... where is that?
Thanks for any tips
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By Ben Lennon
Hi guys new to this forum and thought I’d jump on as I’ve just bought my first quad a Kawasaki bayou klf300c 89 model. It had starting issues when I bought it so I’ve gone thru and replaced the cdi, voltage regulator and starter solenoid aswell as rebuilt the starter motor after all this it was still free spinning on electric start so I pulled the stator cover off to find the fly wheel wasn’t spinning so replaced the one way clutch bearing put it all back together and still not engaging at all. I’m at a loss and looking for some ideas on we’re to look next to solve the problem
cheers Ben 👍
Let me start with I have about 30 years of ATC experience, but not much with stuff made after 1988. Some, but I'm mechanically inclined so it's all good. I"m rehabbing a 1997 Bayou 220 to send back into the wild and the mechanicals are now all good, just working on making the electrical system...electric. Right now, I have no power on the white wire as tested directly on the plug at the starter solenoid. I'm assuming that wire is supposed to be hot any time it's attached to a battery? The genius that had it before snipped a couple wires and inserted a fairly heavy push button for electric start bypassing the electrical system. I think i've corrected everything north of the solenoid but the white wire has me stumped. Is my assumption that this should always be hot with a hot battery correct? Does this indicate a broken circuit in the starter solenoid? Relay was also bad and wired incorrectly, but that's resolved and I can make the relay click bypassing the solenoid and connector, directly giving the white wire 12V. Thoughts?
By Jeff Comstock
Help a brother four legger out
Bayou300 acts like it's flooding if it's it's in the Alabama sun all day but, I've cleaned the carb. Sometimes it'll backfire even though the timing and valve lash are in spec. Thought it was sticking float but after 2 times cleaning the carb I'm lost. So
By mike costa
Motor starts right up, but when I open it up past quarter throttle it bogs way down while ridding, the longer it runs the worse it gets. If I just leave it in neutral and give it full throttle it revs up and down.
Bike sat for 3 years,
Installed new plug, cleaned the fuel tank, took it to a shop and had the carburetor gone though.
Picked up from shop, motor bogged down first day and barely got me back to the truck an 1 mph.
Took back to shop after a month I was told it had a bad plug, I told him I just replaced it.
Got quad home and it is doing the same thing!!!!!!!!!
Thanks in advance for your support!
The carburetor has recently been gone through by a shop
By Brad Leeson
What's going on party people? First, thank you for allowing me the opportunity to be here. I recently purchased a 2005 yrs 450 and have yet to run the bike at full throttle. The bike fires up, idles, seems like everything runs fine except a little popping when you let off the throttle or until you hit 5th gear. It runs strong; no bogging or sluggishness until you hit 4th gear and open it up. Then it begins to act like it's out of gas or the about to be out. I can pull over and sit for 5-10 min and it runs strong again until you open the throttle. I have the carb off the bike to clean and wrote down a list of factory and what I found installed. I also listed other key factors and hope someone can help and explain. I'm new to the scene and have no prior mechanical experience but my theory is worst case scenario I have to take it to the shop anyway so why not learn. I actually enjoy it. Lol. Thanks a million. Hope to get back on the trails soon.
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