Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I made my intro about a QuadRunner I was working on and found a multitude of problems. Most I fixed, but I'm thinking that I'll be making more trips to see the 90' LT-250/4WD. Age and needing regular attention is the reason. The owner, NOT being mechanically inclined, adds into the equation.

So, I deliver it and was offered, as payment, a 95' LT-250/4WD, with paper. It didn't run and had been sitting outside for last 12+ months. It was (basically) all there. This happened Saturday and this "Barn Find" came home to live out it's final years (I suspect).

i-XK5hdn7-M.jpg

 

Today I finally found time to look at her. Not a pretty sight. Rough life, many hrs....... MANY! Only 2399mi, but the speedo is disco'd. I just want to know if this will be worth pursuing. First things first, a really good cleaning. I hate working on dirty vehicles.

i-JQrnq5G-M.jpg

The battery actually took and held a charge! The carb was pulled, cleaned and the tank drained. Found a broken orange wire, dangling loose, near the carb. It was hot when the key was on and ended up connecting to a 10A fuse block. Well, I wonder why it didn't run???? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm! 

Carb back on, fresh non-eth fuel, had to remove the air filter for this test (needs replacement), sprayed a little ether..... hit the starter, fired and died. Third time's a charm, she runs. I'll be going thru things as I can and questions will follow, in this thread.

 

WOOHOO!!!

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I do have a few questions. If you have a thought, please share.

 1. Where is the best site to locate Suzi PN's? I have the service manual PDF, but I didn't find a PN for the air filter, as an example.

 2. And, what about parts? Do you goto local Suzi (dealer) or online 3rd parties? If 3rd party, whom?

 3. Speaking of parts. I will really need a rear plastic for this ride. The RR fender is all but gone. Are they still available? 

i-5tpTwDp-M.jpg

 

Thanks guys!

 

Edited by Seymore
Posted

RE: oil and the clutch. So, I also ride 70's KZ street bikes and know all about what oils need to be used in a wet clutch situation. This is with clutch plates and a cable that will disengage them. JASO oil needs to be used. NO FRICTION MODIFIERS! (as is used in newer oils, these days) I'm not familiar with the LT clutch. Is it a centrifugal clutch? Are there plates involved? Are there special oil needs for these older engines? Please, educate me.

Posted
4 hours ago, Seymore said:

I do have a few questions. If you have a thought, please share.

 1. Where is the best site to locate Suzi PN's? I have the Service Manual PDF, but I didn't find a PN for the air filter, as an example.

 2. And, what about parts? Do you goto local Suzi (dealer) or online 3rd parties? If 3rd party, whom?

 3. Speaking of parts. I will really need a rear plastic for this ride. The RR fender is all but gone. Are they still available?

Thanks guys!

 

What I normally do if i want to get factory part numbers, I try one of the online catalogs for suzuki and then I check the aftermarket sites like bikebandit. try this https://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/l/suz/50d0a4aaf870022c2c53496c/1995-quadrunner-lt-f250-parts

Then you can take the part number and do a google search to see if there is a less expensive version. So the air filter looks like a part # 13781-19B00 which on that site is $20.47 

image.thumb.png.a2bb7d83df70887a5deb056c12359698.png

 

You can also punch that number into Amazon and you'll see a bunch of lesser expensive aftermarket filters available

Suzuki LT 250 Air Filter Amazon

 

So depends on what you want to spend and what parts you want, the older machines have aftermarket parts usually available. The plastics i would see if there are used ones on ebay or hunt around online to see what the best price is.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yea, understood man. Thanks. I have a local Suzi dealer. I think I'll keep my local guys in business for a while longer... till I figure out where this thing is going. Still not running quite right. Running really rich. Need to pull the carb again.

 

I've had hit-n-miss experiences with online dealings. At least this way, local, I have someone to talk to (face-2-face or a call) if issues arise. The oils/air/plug and a few spring clamps cost me just a shade under 50. At least I'll not need to do the $24 air filter for a while. 😳

 

Yea, used plastics seem like hens teeth... guess this is right place/right time to get used on these. I'll keep my eyes open. I've seen the Meiyer (sp?) plastics, a bit to pricey for me.

Posted (edited)

5af2afdfa5f08_lt-chokediagram.thumb.JPG.37829ecd14ca7b10e78ab079587b4d8e.JPGOk, so I suspect I know the answer, but...

Running realllllly rich. fouling the plug bad. The choke cable assy, where it meets the carb, is a sweeping plastic piece that screws into the carb body. This is just a cable guide, but sealed from outside air, right? On mine, this plastic piece is cracked thru/broken and letting air into the system. Mine is different, but shows as #35, here:

 

 

Edited by Seymore
  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Tim Keiper
      1st problem, Does anyone know where I can find a stock carb for my Timberwolf, I have tried two different aftermarket carbs and they both suck. The machine runs great until it gets good and warm, then it keeps stalling unless I feather the throttle. it will even stall while I'm trying to go from 1st to reverse or vise versa. I took it to a buddy of mine who is a bike mechanic for years, and he told me try to find a factory carb. When I look online from dealers it says "NOT AVAILABLE" anyone have any suggestions ?
       
      2nd, The small tab on the rear axle for towing is to short for even pulling my small yard trailer, I can't even turn a little bit and hit hits. I tried making an extension which worked great as far as length, but it bends the tab and then the extension drags the ground. I have an idea of what to do to fix it, but wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem and see how you solved it.
    • By Gwbarm
      I finally got around to working on the TRX, this has been an ongoing problem with this machine. This is a machine that we keep on my Fathers property, i dont see it that often, my brother haad it professionally repaired last year and year before same problem, the new starter gears and bypass gears last about a year and the machine is not used that often, he said he was done with it , so i thought i should go take a look. Sure enough the gears were all malled again. 
       

       

      IMG_4910.mov   There is some slack in there but most is taken up by the gear cover,if anyone with history with these machines has had the same problem, let me know your findings. Where i am now im looking for finding replacement honda gears on Ebay and try those. I suspect the original was replaced with aftermarket gears years ago and they just worse quality as the years go by. 
    • By marcosphoto
      Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum.  To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now.  Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years.  I race superbike and motocross.  Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines.  Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards. 
      Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak.  Well, looks like everything else - right?  Wrong!  Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal.  Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out.  However this is where things get weird.  Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff.  So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out.  Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner.  I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with.  Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke.  (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm).  While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together.  Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back.  Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
    • By KdlH
      Following on from this thread;
       
      I've finally got around to pulling the clutch cover off to have a look at the shifter ratchet mechanism. The screw holding the pinned star wheel has come loose and the wheel flops about. Unfortunately the keyway on the shifter cam has broken on both sides, I found both pieces.
      Anyone had this problem?
      The keyway on the cam "ramps" out, so I'm thinking of making a slightly longer key with a ramp ground into it. I'll put it back together with retaining compound. It may not work but I think it's worth a try.

       

       
    • By Jacksonbell
      I just went out to start my 2004 polaris sportsman 600 and nothing happened. It didnt have power to the dash and wouldn't turn over. I have no idea why, but it's not the battery because the winch still works. Can anyone help?
×
×
  • Create New...