Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All, I finished up my Prairie 400 restore and this is my next project..  It is a 2006 Kawasaki Prairie KVF700D 4X4 Mean Green Special Edition. I got this for next to nothing , it is in really rough shape. The current owner stated that the engine is seized and he only rode it twice after putting on brand new tires. It has been sitting in the yard under a tarp for more than two years.. Here it is when I brought it home. Actually in those photos I had already removed the recoil starter cover and put a 19MM socket on the bolt with a breaker bar to gently see if the motor was seized. I got lucky it is not seized and moves like it should until you start to feel it bind.  If I am lucky this could be a timing chain or dropped valve.  I will start tearing it down..

IMG_20180803_164413836.jpg

IMG_20180803_164428578.jpg

IMG_20180803_164442070.jpg

IMG_20180803_164452929.jpg

IMG_20180803_164501802.jpg

IMG_20180803_165855684_HDR.jpg

Posted

Getting it stripped down and I am a little worried. I see paint markings on the cylinders.. F and R designating front and rear cylinders.. That means someone has been in here before.... 

IMG_20180806_104618651.jpg

IMG_20180806_104627858.jpg

IMG_20180806_113236608.jpg

IMG_20180806_113246420.jpg

Posted (edited)

Ok, I took off the Rear Head first and found a broken timing chain and the piston had hit the intake valves.. I don't know if you will be able to see from the photo of the valves. They are stuck open and binding. The top of the piston looks fine. I then removed the cylinder. They cylinder looks to be in great condition, but I do not think these are factory pistons..  I took off the front head and everything looks great. Took off the front cylinder and it looks great. Same non factory looking piston on the front.  I then checked the connecting rod on the rear cylinder, it feels nice and tight with no play when pulling it straight up and down and moves smoothly like it should on the crank shaft. Then I checked the front connecting rod and there is a slight amount of play when moving it up and down.. I do not think that is a good sign.. Ok, this where I need advice and help.. When I was a kid I used to build V8 muscle car engines like it was nothing, but I have never done anything other than rings or valves in these type engines.. Everything in the bottom end has always been great.  So I am guessing I need a valve job with new Valves, springs, Etc.. All timing Chains replaced. I will check the cam for tolerances as well as the other head parts to see if they need to be replaced.  So here is my question Other than rod bearings should I be replacing anything else on the bottom end? Are these known for wearing out parts on the bottom end?  Should I try going back to factory pistons after I check to see the size of these and if the cylinders were bored? If this was your engine what would you do?  Thanks for any help...

IMG_20180807_113100504.jpg

IMG_20180807_112830412.jpg

IMG_20180807_112921929.jpg

Edited by Venom
Posted

Wow, nobody can offer any advice? I would like to know since the front cylinder connecting rod has a little play in it on the crank, can just replace the connecting rod bearings on the front cylinder without splitting the crankcase?  Everything else seems great with no play in the bottom end.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By LashinWheeler
      Hello all, I have a 2006 Polaris Sawtooth with no spark. It has a dead battery but with a jump pack on it, it will still not Spark. Plug is good, Throttle ETC is not closed, Stator pick up coil seems to Ohm out in the correct range, Unsure how to properly check the CDI. And when ignition is on the Neutral and reverse light come on but after cranking just the neutral stays on. 
       
      Any help would be great,
       
      Thanks!
    • By Mikey509
      Hi guys, I was given a 2000 Honda Recon fourtrax 250 (I think that's the full name lol). The previous owner had it sitting for a while before I got it. It sat for another few years in my ownership. I got it up and going on its first test drive today!! I was wondering where everyone buys their parts from?  Coming from the car community, we have sites like RockAuto and many more. Anything like that for quads? Also would like to be pointed in a direction, if possible, for plastics. I am missing a few and would like to have it complete. I appreciate any input!
    • By Shorty51
      Good morning, I am new to the forum. I'm 75 years old and love getting ATVs back to usable condition. I particularly like the 2006-2009 Arctic Cat 250 Utility. I currently own 6. The 2006 I am working on only has reverse and low gear. The "drive shaft" in the transmission is completely stripped where the high gear would mesh. Has anyone on here replaced the shaft. I'm told I have to split the case. I was hoping that someone on here could let me know how hard it will be. I already have it stripped down to where the shaft coming in from the clutch side is the only thing left. I was hoping I could just remove the driven clutch and drive it out from there. Directions say different. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    • By Johnnynv
      I recently bought a 2006 KFX  700 that had been sitting for 10+ years, started to replace the fuel system and the fuel pump has a connector that does not fit the same as original.  The plug has opposite slot as original.  There are two plugs on fuel pump bracket, some tiny sensor and fuel pump.  The new fuel pump plugs in the same place as tiny sensor, where as the old fuel pump plugged into opposite position.  I took old connector off bad fuel pump and repined it to new one, but now am questioning if this was the right thing to do.  I did pay attention to wire placement but just feel like there should be a direct replacement.  From the pictures on partzilla website, I cannot find a different option.  Has anyone run into this issue?
    • By rjsummer
      I just bought a 1984 Suzuki LT185 ATV and am looking for the OWNER’S manual. ( not a service manual) 
      I contacted Suzuki Canada but they have no paper or digital copies in their archives. 
      Does anyone possibly have a digital copy they’d be willing to share? 
×
×
  • Create New...