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ARCTIC CAT BRANDED SIDE-BY-SIDES AND ATVS ARE COMING BACK
Passion can change people. Change minds. And in the end, it can take us back to where our family has been all along. Because Arctic Cat fans and powersports enthusiasts demanded it, the Arctic Cat® name will be returning to ATVs and Side-by-Sides in 2019.
With a legacy of innovation, performance and fun, our legendary lineup of ATVs, side-by-sides and snowmobiles are built to take you anywhere you want to go — from carving up mountain snow on a Mountain Cat Alpha One in British Columbia, to flying over the dunes in Glamis in a Wildcat™ XX. And these high-performance vehicles are still made proudly in Thief River Falls, Minnesota.
Hey I have a 97 bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) that i bought for 1000 last June and sunk another 1000 into it already. When i went to look at it, the seller had warmed it up before hand (he was riding it when I got there). it ran good so i bought it and took it home that evening... next morning it wouldn't hardly start. I discovered the carb was clogged, there was chunks of rust in the fuel valve, the choke lever was missing and other things. I have since cleaned the carb and replaced the fuel valve and gas lines and cleaned out the gas tank and cap.
Enough background on it, the problem is this: It floods if i push it past half throttle in 4th and 5th gear even going downhill and shifting correctly. It also has to idle and warm up when you first start it which is really annoying now that its cold... It also smokes blue smoke for about 15 seconds when started cold- does not smoke at all once warm but the exhaust still smells like burnt metal. A friend told me that it didn't have enough compression. I also found out that the valves are a common cause for low compression on Kawasakis.. I have never adjusted valves before- the most I've ever got into a engine was a head gasket on a riding mower so I'm new to this. My goal is to get this bike running and starting cold like a top- should i tear down and rebuild the top end? What should i try first? I tore the carb apart and rebuilt it and fiddled with the air screw and nothing changed. I also ordered a compression test kit that should be coming in soon.
Ive also considered just selling it for like $500 and taking the hit- Id rather not sink too much more into this machine.. lol
this bike! did this guy sucker me or what.. ok, looks like this means something is bent that I do not see or one rod is longer vs the other?
how long do you think this would last before it ripped into the tire? this is the right side, left side tire clears no problem
I can not find them on www.kawasakipartshouse.com
By Frank Angerano
So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”.
Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for.
1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color.
2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you.
3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running)
4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks.
5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck.
5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath.
7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart.
8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart.
9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material.
10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up.
11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it
12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike .
All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems.
I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence!
I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
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