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Thought i would share a fix that I came across. I was working on a 99 scambler 500, The customer complaint was that even with the fuel shut off the tank would slowly drain out onto the ground. First I found the fuel shut off was bad/ leaking/ dripping so I installed a new one thinking that would fix it. Then I ran it and and seen that the overflow was flowing fuel out from the bowl. So I cleaned the needle and seat and changed the float height to lower the fuel level in the bowl. Well... It still overflowed and flooded. So I bench tested the needle and seat with a pop off tester. I found that these newer style needle and seats just utilize an o-ring to install the brass seat into the carb.
The o-ring for the seat had hardened up allowing fuel into the float bowl from under the seat. New o-ring and problems solved.
Over the years I have always used a friends machine, and only ride a few times a year. Last week I purchased a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700. The front diff needs a rebuild, the axles are very loose where they go into diff. My question is, both front wheels rotate forward by hand, but do not rotate the opposite direction. Is this "NORMAL OPERATION" I plan on rebuilding the hubs at the same time as the diff.....
My question about the rear diff, it rolls as if the machine has a total POSI rear axle...……. I lifted the front end off the garage floor with overhead hoist, as I moved it sideways the rear tires skidded rather than rotate. Both would roll forward easy, but not go in a circle. When I drove the machine in the garage making a tight turn I could feel the binding and skidding of rear tires.... Even if the switch was in 4 wheel drive, when it's hanging in te air the ignition is off...….. with the machine in 2 wheel drive mode, is that HONESTLY 1 wheel drive to allow turning without tearing up the lawn? then it locks the rear axle once it's put into 4 wheel drive? I'm guessing the rear diff needs a rebuild also because there is something "BALLED UP" internally locking the rear wheels together?
It's a old machine that was not maintained, I thought the wheels were all rusted, but it was 17 years off baked on red clay. Just wanting to make it a reliable machine. I have great mechanical ability, just lacking a little knowledge of what is suppose to be "NORMAL OPERATING STANDARDS"
Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge.
Hey guys, new here, but haven't found ANY answer to my specific problem on a Suzuki dedicated ATV forum, so here's to hoping!
I acquired a 95' Quadrunner 250, 4x4, (LT4WD) for practically nothing with no spark. The PO had tossed in a used stator which didn't fix the problem... so I went all routes (though cheaply) to narrow down the initial problem of no spark.
Plug, coil, CDI (caltric) and stator w/pickup (caltric) were purchased and installed. And it RAN, but bogged horribly and would not rev past 1/4 throttle.
I checked fuel flow, vacuum lines, all the normal stuff, no issues. I decided to check the valves and cam... well, there was one problem. The cam was 1mm under the lowest spec in the manual. So, in-came a new cam, Stage 1 Hotcams... also threw in a new set of shindy valves, lapped them, replaced the valve seals, and the timing chain.
Back together again (w/stock airbox and new oiled filter). Now it idles even better, still boggs at 1/4 throttle, but will rev past it if you hold the throttle open for a second. Ahaha... success!
So I was able to ride it above 1/4 throttle once I had momentum... could shift through the gears, all was good as long as I kept it over 1/2 throttle. Took a long enough ride to break in the cam properly at least so I won't have to worry about that.
Now, I start fiddling with the carb. It's clean as a whistle, stock, with stock jets (new replacement Mikuni jets). Same problem.
I start thinking, maybe this is fuel related and the bike is having an issue transitioning from idle jet to main jet... so I LOWER the needle by raising the clip 1 spot. Now it revvs up in neutral with no bog, but it boggs about the same trying to ride it. So I move the needle down again with the clip on the top slot. Better, but still has a bit of bog at 1/4 throttle.
The last bit of advice I got was to ditch the CV carb... so I sprung for a brand new Mikuni VM30-83 round-slide. Bolted it up, blew into the vacuum tube to fill it with fuel (no vacuum port on this one) and she fired right up... but there is still a bit of bog, it's just masked by the fact that I'm not waiting for the vacuum diaphragm to open.
So I feel like each little step brings me closer, but not perfect. I'm now wondering if this is still in-fact a carb tuning issue (I have some jets I can fiddle with and maybe lean-out the idle jet a little.) OR if the cheap-a** Caltric Stator/Pickup is what's causing these issues.
I have a 95' KingQuad with 400 miles on it... like new.. runs like a top... I've tried both the stock QR and the Caltric CDI boxes on it, and it revvs up and runs like a champ.
The only unknowns between the two systems are the carb, and the stator/pickup. My next step in troubleshooting is to rip apart the King Quad and test it's CDI on the Quadrunner... but considering there is no change to how it runs I doubt it will lead to a solution.
HOWEVER... I tried the stock CDI just recently after running the Caltric this whole time, and the bike runs like garbage. Hardly idles, and won't rev up at all. So, that is my one smoking gun telling me that it's either the pickup coil or the stator itself.
Has anyone had a problem even CLOSE to this? I can't image the carb would be causing this many issues, especially going to 2 different ones, both with stock jetting to OEM, and exhibiting the identical symptoms... the only change is when different CDI's are plugged in, or when the needle valve leans out the mixture.
Also, I checked the piston, rings and bore when I had it apart and they're like-new... no scoring, rings are loose, cylinder is still round and has honing marks still int he bore. Stock piston, stock bore size and it has 160psi compression. Battery is brand new, and I've tried 3 different R/R's, none of which change any symptoms, but slightly vary the charging voltage by .2-.5 of a volt depending on which unit. Also tried a new coil which changed nothing.
ANY help would be appreciated. Too much invested to not get it running right.
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Our 1988 Yamaha Terra Pro is finally seeing the finish line of becoming our new bush hogging tractor! I've had the terra pro for almost 2 years... we had great intentions, but after removing the fenders, fuel tank, and the carb, we let it sit up. Shame on us! However, the terra pro is cranking today. We cleaned the carb, figured out what goes where and where did that screw go! She smokes like there's no tomorrow, but that's okay! The only issue right now is getting all these lines hooked back up to the carb right! There is 5 lines to hook up to this thing!! And in our moment of drinking and removing parts, we cant remember how they go back on. I've found several diagrams online, but none showing the overall schematics of all the lines! If anyone has a service manual, or any way of helping us figure out what goes where I would really appreciate it!! I can attach pictures later if it'll help!
By jim estes
Got this terrapro recently. Has slight damage on left front fender-traight otherwise. Low hours-no smoke-runs excellent!! Finish mower comes with it. Mower has no issues. asking $1600. Always open to partia; trades. This is a neat machine that starts runs and drives very well! If your interested shoot me a message
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