Best baskets for Kodiak 400?
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By Kaz
Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
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By Wam12905
Hey all!
I recently acquired an 02 big bear 400 this past summer, carb on it was shot to sh** (pics attached) so my father recommended I just buy a new one off amazon. I purchased the first one that came up as compatible and once it came in, I bolted it in and it fired right up with no noticeable issues. Once I got to the trails with it I realized that on any un-level ground, there's little power output. I checked with 3 different local shops and they all refused to work on tuning up off brand carbs because of how terrible they are. One shop had a motorcycle in with an aftermarket carb and the mechanic said that that would be me if I brought my big bear in. Whoever owned the motorcycle and needed their aftermarket carb tuned up had racked up the bill to nearly $1500. Needless to say he made it clearly obvious that putting any amount of money into an aftermarket carb is not worth it. Now that I've learned all of this, I'm wishing I didn't toss the old carb for a $30 amazon one. In light of this minor f-up does anybody have any recommendations for high quality carbs for my vehicle? I've also attached pictures of the old carb and its condition for your curiosity, although its current condition is likely 6 feet under in a landfill somewhere.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283488113569?_skw=Big+Bear+400+Carburetor+Oem&epid=10042848409&itmmeta=01JCDWCTMJX5GBC407RF2PPVDD&hash=item42013553a1:g:INUAAOSwn8llquIL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkIMhqd%2Fye0vA0YMR5DUzMoCLl0F9GPNRfuAJKaylVqqyVrZCBJVvXQaPrlosjt%2FZnIHyIRPuGiIbxC9o%2B02UqGA4YqXDyyH4bVebnTPz8P5Elg76CvLdu3KyZgwpgpSeYJK2IOWtlo9vtTld7RVjqPwSv1VF26v6kyXGesAB%2BA%2BCHsj3OnqNrHMyKCBuDMSSvUWvOfq%2BKsZKqyHR7yduef%2BHBlXvfiyRJPThHr7Ge9n%2BHBbuxRCb4oF7%2Fp8oZsvajHy9YDitFRfNJeeAssYbgXuhAc7AVvUZZ2YxKW9GzDdxltLMap8orKJtr%2BIk0SRGQ%3D|tkp%3ABFBMsqqzvONk
I found this one on EBAY that advertises as a genuine OEM part for a fraction of the $650 that they're normally worth. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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By robert63
my cat only has 100miles on it and is in mint cond. since i bought it new in 2009 it has had what i believe to b a carb problem. going down a steep hill makes it want to stall. as soon as u r on level ground its fine.and at top speed it kinda acts like its starving for gas. u let off the throtel a bit n its fine. idels good starts good. hav taken it back to dealer several times. they eithor said it didnt do it or mayb bad gas. my friend says it sounds like the float level isnt rite. any advise would realy help.
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By k9_bones
Hello, been lurking for a while fixing some of my problems after reading others unfortunate issues. However I can’t find the answers I need. Back story I have a 03 Kodiak 450. A coworker was going to take it to the dump, he said it wouldn’t run. Some mice got in there while it was stored for a few years and chewed up the wire harness. All the wheels were locked up and he didnt want to mess with it. Not knowing if it would run, for a week or so I spliced most of the wires back together. Replaced all the brake calipers and rear brake cable and rebuilt the carb. So far I have put 30ish miles on the bike and seems to run decently. Now my questions. When I put it in gear and the display light showed it is in gear I have to bump the throttle to make it actually go into drive or reverse. It doesn’t slam In gear but kind acts if you let the clutch out to fast on a manual. Is that normal, seems it’s thinking about going In gear then it goes after tapping the throttle. 2nd question, when I use the diff. Lock it acts like it is in a limp mode just by accelerating the lest little bit. It starts to sputter and won’t allow it to have any power. It only does this with the diff lock on. 3rd. The display is stuck on KMH. How do I change it to MPH. I followed all the steps I saw on YouTube with no luck. When I got power to the display it was in MPH but it switched its self and now I can’t get it back. Next are the rear u-joint the same as the front u-joints. I have sprung a oil leak from the rear diff at the drive shaft and need to replace the seal. Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help. I’m sure I will find more things in the future.
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