-
Similar Forum Topics
-
By bigfatkahuna
Hello all, I'm new to ATVs. I have a friend moving away and he made me a great deal on his 2007 King Quad. I couldn't resist. So here I am trying to figure things out.
I figure I'll start with an oil change and work on registration.
I'm in Colorado so I'll be looking for some adventure soon.
I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions and hopefully be able to help someone with answers too.
-
By BruinBeater
Got asked to take a look at a 2014 Can Am Commander 1000 for an overheating issue. Owner says he's been having issues for awhile. Had another guy put a new electric fan on it and its still overheating.
I take it for a test drive. 1 mile on asphalt and temp gauge is pegged and machine is telling me its overheating.
Looking at it in the garage and I see, it low on coolant. As in, the overflow tank is empty. Can't see it in the radiator. Not sure how far down it is.
Took out the seat, and center console. I see coolant on top of both cylinders. Its leaking a tiny bit from each coolant outlet on top of the cylinders. They are plastic with a metal bleeder screw. Both leaking from the bleeder screw. Tried to tighten them but I can tell they are stripped out.
Bought some aftermarket coolant outlets from Quad Logic. They came with a new bleeder screw and crush washer for the screw. They did not come with a new gasket.
Bought a new OEM thermostat. Did it really need one? I'm not sure, I didn't bother to test it. Its not a cheap part but not terribly expensive either. These commanders are a pain to bleed all the air out of the cooling system, I only wanted to do it once.
Remove the plastic screen from the firewall so I can access the thermostat. Cut all the old hose clamps off (OEM Crimps) Replace the T-stat. Install new hose clamps. Install new coolant outlets on top of both cylinders.
Now its time to bleed the system. I have a "NO SPILL FUNNEL" Remove the radiator cap and attach this in its place. Fill the funnel up about half way and let it sit for awhile with the bleed screws open. Once I see fluid out the bleeders, I close them. Squeeze the hoses a bit and watch the air bubble come up into the funnel. Once the system is full, I drive it to a hill in the yard and put 1 car ramp in the middle of the hill. I drive up the car ramp with the left/drivers side tire. This puts the radiator cap up nice and high. Let the engine run for as long as it takes to get the air out. I keep the full at least 1/3 full. I rev the engine to 4K rpm. I jump out and squeeze the upper rad hose, the lower rad hose, and both lines to the cab heater (aftermaket) I keep doing this till I no longer see air. I also crack the bleed screws loose on top of the heads during this time. The fan cycled on and off multiple times. It took approximately 45 minutes till no more bubbles were coming up into the funnel.
Remove the no spill funnel and top off the recovery tank with the coolant trapped in the funnel. Took it for test run up the road and hit a little trail. Outside air temp was 92F and 90% + humidity. Machine never came close to overheating on the ride.
-
By TravisCr
The family has two quads and have been asking where to ride around here- we are about 70 miles north of spokane and looking for places that are nice to go visit for beginners.
We have a 2003 Polaris sportsman, and a 2004 Artic Cat 2-up (I forget the size)
-
By DaleJAM
so i cant read the vin clearly but i have added some pictures, hopefully someone sees it correctly. took a picture of what it looks like, they painted it Green It is underside a SKY BLUE original. has one spark plug . 3 relays in the back + rectifier. has one relay in the front. has cdi in the front three plugs off it.
If you need more info or pictures please ask.
the wire harness is trashed i want to rewire it but correctly.
-
By Topendcol
First issue was fuel pump wont start once ignition has been turned on. Replaced the pump as I had one on hand, than noticed no power so replaced the fuel pump relay as that was were i traced the power to. Still nothing so further inspection looks like signal is coming from the PCM (FLR B20) but not switching the the brown wire to the fuel pump. Ive checked the operation of the bank angle sensor and it appears operational. Fuses and wiring all appear OK. The engine stop relay also tests OK. Ive been through the repair manual and diagrams but to no avail. Fully stumped, any tips would be helpful. Thanks
Col
-
COMMUNITY SECTIONS
ATV FORUMS
QUADCRAZY MEMBERSHIP
Be a part of best online community of ATV riders and join thousands of people who love ATVs! Share your ATV photos, videos, ATV rides, get help with your ATV and more. Not a member?
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.