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By Joeguy
After i did my rebuild it seems to not want to shift well. I think the cable is alright, and when it does shift its nice and solid. I have to basically use my hand to shift and i have to pull or push it very far, like max travel, to get it to shift. I also tried adjusting the clutch set screw. Any ideas where to go next, or maybe i should just grab a new cable to try.
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By jay41198
I am missing a cdi box for my 1988 Suzuki quadrunner LT 4WD is there a rplacement box that i can wire into this bike to get it back running beings that the cdi box is no longer made
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By logray
Hi all,
I am wondering if any of you have a Clutch Starter gear from a 1988 era quadrunner 250 sitting around that you could get me a precise measurement of the outer diameter of the race the sprag engages onto, for me? I need to machine a damaged race down and install a hardened sleeve and need that measurement (it's on a different gear than the OEM one, so I can't buy and use a OEM gear).
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By Yamahahahaha
I'm in the middle of repairing damage from the chain coming off of this from the previous owner. (I learned this is somewhat common on these for various reasons.)
What are you guys using to either help keep the chain correct and on the sprocket or guarding your engine in the case that it comes off / breaks?
Is there an upgraded guard that can bolt around the sprocket in replacement of the currently broken OEM alluminum?
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By LMI
Hi all. New to the forum & quads. Seems like a great place full of info.
I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700. I need a battery. I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types. I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire. RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140. Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS. How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
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