2005 Yamaha Kodiak 400 cranks wont start
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By ResQ91
Hi Guys!
New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
Or ??
Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
Dave
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By Tuzz
Bucking started about a month ago and works ok after 1/2 hour warmup. Today while working on it i discovered that if i put the ignition switch in LIGHT position it runs fine right from the start.
I'm stumped! Any idea why this could be?
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By Drillbit
Hey all,
I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
Thanks!
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By Topendcol
First issue was fuel pump wont start once ignition has been turned on. Replaced the pump as I had one on hand, than noticed no power so replaced the fuel pump relay as that was were i traced the power to. Still nothing so further inspection looks like signal is coming from the PCM (FLR B20) but not switching the the brown wire to the fuel pump. Ive checked the operation of the bank angle sensor and it appears operational. Fuses and wiring all appear OK. The engine stop relay also tests OK. Ive been through the repair manual and diagrams but to no avail. Fully stumped, any tips would be helpful. Thanks
Col
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By jashadams
Hey all back again with my 1989 moto 4 250.
After putting a new carb on it it's really sputtery, it has new gas and I'm wondering what to tune on the carb to make it idle better. I've attached a video to describe the issue more. The bike is still work in progress but I think the video gets the point across. Thanks!
Snapchat-1142015191.mp4
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