Quantcast
Jump to content


2012 Rancher 420 FPA EPS problems


Recommended Posts

The wires may have breaks in them. Wires mostly break right near the end where they go into the metal terminal. You can sometimes detect it by gently flexing the wires one at a time and seeing they feel right..  In this case though it would be better to use an ohm gauge first to test each wire from end to end.. 

I had a look at the codes and got the power relay for the 14 codes, and the 18 codes seemed to relate to the motor current, or it's current detector circuitry inside the ecu..  Both problems had test/check procedures I saw.. but didn't read.

I suppose you have checked the power relay ?  It would stop any current for the motor, and the ecu would think that was a problem.. problem 18 possibly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The manual I was looking in was for 2009-2011..  What does your book say the codes indicate ?

Yeah intermittent is annoying alright. Intermittent probably means it is a wiring problem though..  more so than an electronic problem.. hopefully.

Have you tried leaving it running and then going all over it wiggling the wiring hoping to cause the problem ? You need to be watching the dash while you are doing it to detect which bit of wire it is..  You could also start running a hose over electrical connectors..

Wires get bad connections where the wires crimp into the metal terminals, and they get dirty connections where the terminal contacts the unit, then get breaks, mostly near their ends,  and they chafe the insulation and short to the frame.  All those faults can cause intermittent problems..  The dirty/corroded crimp/connections can be effected by moisture..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By BuckBilly
      Good morning to all !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
      Let's see if we can make this a daily event.
    • By mga
      I see quite a few ads for that  Tribotex additive. It's kind of expensive, has anyone used it it their ATV or any other vehicle?
    • By cavry
      Wiring shows White and Brown to solenoid blades. Then a black wire from starter circuit relay to solenoid. I am confused,  where is that black wire supposed to connect?
      Thanks for any help
      Cavry
    • By mkibbe
      My 2014 750 king quad stalls sometimes when I touch or turn the handlebars,the problem has gotten worse,my machine has 475 miles and is only trail ridden,I have a new factory battery and i have 14.2 volts when the quad is running and 13.3 on the battery when not running,also using a multimeter there is no change in volts when turning the bars until it does stall,If I pull the 40 amp power steering fuse it will not stall.......I've been told its the ECU,Hate to buy one if thats not the problem,but its kinda leaning towards that,,,,,need some opinions.

    • By BenJammin
      I did a compression test on my 2005 Bombardier Traxter 650 CVT and it's 75 PSI.  service manual only talks about leak down test.  No specification for engine compression the manual.  What does 75 PSI tell me?  Thank in advance.
       
      A little history of this machine.  640 miles.  Picked it up about 2 years ago, not running. Probably the computer.  Tested all circuits and confirm it was the computer.  Long story short, I watched a Youtube video and fixed the computer. ATV now started and runs.  BUT, it tops out 20 MPH.  I cleaned the carb 3 times also using a Mikuni carb kit after the second time.  Slide in carb is going up and down.  Only adjustment for fuel is at 1.5 turns out.  NGK Sparkplug had soot on main part but brown on the electrode.  Champion sparkplug is brown.  I check CVT clutches and they both appear to engage like they suppose to.  Checked valve clearance it's 0.00, I can't get any feeler gauges in-between.  I check timing chain I believe it's in the correct position and hasn't skipped.  I removed muffler plug and drilled into muffler to try and make sure it wasn't plugged.
×
×
  • Create New...