2002 Kodiak Carb issue

[jscarter32]

So this is what happens when a atv sits for many many years..  TIme for a good cleaning.  At least the tank looks pretty clean inside and petcock is working now after a good flush.

[Gwbarm]

Yeah, thats what ethanol fuel does to a carb after sitting, never seen non ethanol fuel do that to a carb, it is just usually tarry and junky, is that an OEM carb or an aftermarket, if its aftermarket i wouldnt even mess with it , try to find a used OEM to rebuild to specs. If it is OEM is should clean up OK with some patience, depending how bad the pitting is. Just get a good quality kit or replacement OEM jets and Needle.

[gbrsk8]

Yikes! Makes me scared to see the inside of my carb, but mine runs pretty well so hopefully it’s not like this! On a related note, I’ve found that it’s usually easier to replace a carb in this condition that try to clean it and rebuild it. It’s just too many small parts to get it running consistently after it gets this bad. On the bright side, replacement carbs are pretty affordable these days.

[Gwbarm]

Yes aftermarket carbs are reasonable, i have used them with not much luck, they do run and fairly well but seem to run lean and cant adjust it out, the 3 bikies i am working on all had aftermarket carbs, i have been working on trying to get OEM replacements because i was not happy with the performance. OEM carbs are very expensive,i have been looking for used ones in good shape and rebuilding them, the cheapest and easiest way for you to get it up and running would be to get an aftermarket, read the reveues , some are better than others. Get it up and running make sure everything else is working good without spending a lot of money, it may work fine, and if it doesent you can always replace it later. Just my opinion. I have one on my Eiger its cold natured but once warm it does OK, but until then a lot of stumbling and jerking you have to ease into the throttle.

[Caseknife]

Agree you are way better off to rebuild the factory carb rather than get a Chinese replacement.  Have ran into numerous issues with aftermarket carbs, wrong jetting, not correct porting, inlet seat not replaceable, and the list goes on.  I always ask if the original carb is in a box at home and to bring it along.  You would think that if the price is too good to be true, $45 as opposed to $400, a few red flags would be raised.  I always recommend the use of non-ethanol fuel in carbed machines.  Doesn't seem to affect injected machines as bad.  

[jscarter32]

Cleaned it best i could, replace the float needle and seat, got it running but is leaking from overflow tube now (was leaking around the bowl so new gasket fixed that part).  Can take it apart pretty quickly now, so now to check the float level and double check to make sure it isn't sticking.

[Gwbarm]

Sounds like the float needle is sticking you can polish up where the sides of the seat with fine sand paper 800 grit rolled up in a tube or use a tip in you drill with polishing compound 

[jscarter32]

so, does the whole needle suppose to slide when it gets engaged?  not just the pin on the top...

Ordered an aftermarket one with good reviews from amazon, to be here tomorrow, but would rather get this original working correctly.

[Mech]

Yes the whole needle slides including the spring supported pin at the float end. Most of them you either just have the float resting against the pin, by dangling the float straight down from the pivot, that's with the carb tilted on it's side so the pivot is at the top, or you turn the carb upside down and let the weight of the float rest on the pin. If you let us know what size the bike is I'll check that if you like. Or, there are service manuals on this site for free download.

It's probably got a little wire clip that goes onto the float. That's to pull the float down when the float drops.

I suppose the new float needle seat did have an O ring on it to seal it into the carb body ?

[jscarter32]

Its a 2002 400.  new seat did have a new o-ring.  when i cover the seat needle opening with my finger, i cant blow thru it so it seems sealed around the seat.  when i put the needle in and hold the carb upside down, i still hear a leak when i gently blow on it.  Seems the clip sits on the carb body and im wondering if its causing the needle to not go deep enough to seal.

Edited August 25, 2023 by jscarter32

[Gwbarm]

if you hold down on float and blow does air still esscape

[jscarter32]

when holding down the float it still leaks.  if i press on the needle with a screwdriver, i can get it to seat and not leak.  but thats putting some good pressure on it.

[Mech]

It sounds like it's got a bit of dirt or fluff under the needle.

[Gwbarm]

Yeah! Somethings not right i just downloaded the carb breakdown it sshows seat O ring and needle, my big bear had a little wire that went around the float tang, it doesnt show that on yours, cant really see anything , unless the o ring got out of position when installing it. but you said when you push down hard it stops ,so thats not it, i would take it back out and make sure there is not a burr or anything on the seat causing this.

 

[jscarter32]

Next step to try is to remove the float clip from the needle and see if it will seat down further without it.  but that is for tomorrow.

[Mech]

Yeah if it's not meant to have the little wire holding the needle to the float it may be the problem. Pull the needle and blow through the seat to make sure there's nothing up there, then try the needle by itself. It should stop you being able to blow through it with just very little pressure on the needle, the weight of the float should stop you blowing through it..

[jscarter32]

Still no luck with the new needle, ended up putting on new aftermarket carb and it is up and running without issue. not bad for a bit over 3 bills and a week of trial and error troubleshooting.  Wife now has her own.

[Mech]

Is the float needle a rubber tipped thing ? They are normally very reliable. Are you sure it's not leaking around the O ring on the seat ? I've seen the O ring be a bit too big and not want to go down into the hole, so it was just sealing against the carb body, which also upset the float height by a heap. New O ring and set right in and it was all right.

Good you got the partner mobile..  Let the adventures begin.

[jscarter32]

If i pushed down on the needle hard enough it would seal but seems to 'pop-up' just enough to let air thru when not pressed hard.  I believe it was the wire which connects to the float was causing it not to go down far enough.  Keeping the original carb and may get a better needle set to put in it rather than an amazon one.  main goal was to get it running by the weekend so that got accomplished.

[Mech]

I'd just leave the wire clip off if that cures the problem. Lots don't have the clip and work fine.