Quantcast
Jump to content


2000 Yamaha Big Bear 400 Getting Stuck in Reverse


Gwbarm

Recommended Posts

My Yamaha Big Bear shifts through all the gears good, goes into reverse smoothly, but when i go to get out of reverse it takes a lot of effort to get it back to first gear, and even then it does not go very smoothly, have to pull up on the pedal really hard, anyone else ever had this problem. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.    

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its mostly troublesome  when i pull up to hook on to my trailer i put it in reverse back up hook it up. then cant get it out of reverse, so i have to get off pull the shifter up forcefully with my hand and it will go.Its like i just cant pull it up hard enough to get it out of reverse with my feet without hurting my toes. I thought maybe i need to get some steel toed boots, but decided i really need to fix it.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking something like tyres wearing differently front to back that had caused a gradual difference between front and rear ration.. causing binding. Try slipping it in and then straight out again without moving. If it comes out then , then it is binding up. Or, try slipping it out while the bikes moving, and in particular try blipping the throttle just as you go to slip it out so the load comes off the gear. Also perhaps try driving straight backwards without turning and then again turning the steering to see if that makes a difference.. If any of those things makes a difference then it's probably a binding up between front and rear putting a load on the gears.

Other than that, some part of the linkage going over center ? So it has good leverage pushing into gear but then goes too far so the lever is at a steep angle.. But that may not be an option in the case of a yammy..

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

mine does that sometimes. i just kinda rock it a little and get it back in neutral.

but....it also will go into reverse by itself if i accidentally push past neutral into reverse mode, so maybe it's not going out of reverse?  I'm thinking i need to adjust the cable tension looser. (?) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn't take much to cause what Mga is describing.. needing to rock the bike to get it out of gear. Having new tyres one end and half worn on the other end can do it, even having unevenly/incorrectly inflated tyres can do it.

I've "fixed" people's 4x4 trucks that were "stuck in four wheel drive", by blipping the throttle in gear just before I slipped them out of gear.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So yours will just go in reverse without turning the switch. I always turn my reverse knob switch but have never tried it without turning it so it may not be doing anything either. Last time i rode it i had trouble with the neutral light not coming on, maybe im just not getting it to neutral, but it will roll like its in neutral, neutral has always been hard to find, pull up too hard and it goes to 1st just pull up gently to find neutral,. I think whatever is happeninng might be related.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Gwbarm said:

So yours will just go in reverse without turning the switch. I always turn my reverse knob switch but have never tried it without turning it so it may not be doing anything either. Last time i rode it i had trouble with the neutral light not coming on, maybe im just not getting it to neutral, but it will roll like its in neutral, neutral has always been hard to find, pull up too hard and it goes to 1st just pull up gently to find neutral,. I think whatever is happeninng might be related.

no...i have to turn the switch for reverse.  just sometimes if i push it into that position, it's still in reverse (light on) i replaced the foot pedal with an arm, so i just go back and forth and it comes out of reverse. doesn't happen all the time...just once in a while. maybe it needs more spring pressure to release the reverse cable.?  I'm going to play around with it this weekend. ( the foot linkage had a lot of wear/play in it, making it hard to find gears, so i went with the side shifter instead of replacing the foot linkage...my cheap way out lol )

right now, i've been using it to drag logs out of the woods that i cut a couple of years ago. gotta say, that thing has the power to pull them out and some were big logs.

Edited by mga
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
On 11/17/2023 at 11:30 AM, Gwbarm said:

That sounds exactly what mine is doing I remember your post about the hand shifter thought it was a good idea because of this problem.

also, after replacing the boots and lower ball joint, i backed the clutch off a little....that seemed to help. My theory (probably wrong) was that my clutch was still engaging making it hard to get out of that damn reverse...so, i loosened the nut and turned it CC. I might do a little more after i ride it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By HSTAR
      Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4
      I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 
      Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s
       
    • By BruceG
      Hi guys. I have a problem where the quad will start and run well for about 5 minutes and then it dies. On inspection the airbox has oil in it (quite a lot). The oil is pumping through the cylinder head breather hose. This problem first happened suddenly. I have since done the top end including, piston, gaskets, rings and valves. I have also done the carb (not that I thought that this was the problem). The compression seems normal. The only thing that I can think of, is that I did not grind the valves well enough. Anyone experienced this? If so, how did you fix it? Any other thoughts?
    • By John Sinclair
      I WANTED TO UPGRADE THE CARBURATOR ON MY 1992 BIG BEAR 350, SO I ORDERED A NEW CARB FROM EBAY.  ACCORDING TO THE WRITE-UP IT WAS A GOOD FIT FOR BIG BEARS FROM 1988 TO 1996.  WHEN I REMOVED MY ORIGINAL CARB I NOTICED THAT IT WAS DIFFERENT FROM THE NEW CARB MY CARB HAD TWO THROTTLE  CABLES THE NEW CARB ONLY HAD ONE CABLE.  HOW CAN I MAKE THIS CARB WORK ON MY TWO CABLE THROTTLE?  
    • By McG75
      1996 4x4 Timberwolf rearend width. Can someone with some knowledge of these machines answer this question for me please. Are all 4x4 timberwolves this narrow in the rearend? These tires are so close the right one actually rubs the muffler.  Thinking about seeing if there are any spacers out there for it. I need at least an inch more clearance. 
      .
       
       
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
×
×
  • Create New...