BRUIN 350 Hazard Lights

[adr94]

Hello,

I was able to repair most of the little problems on my 2006 BRUIN. I still have little things to do...

I changed the Hazard light Switch because it was not locking when pushed and now it is not working at all. When I connect it (not sure of the wiring -4 wires but a lot of connection possible on this HELLA 3916-01 switch-) the flashing lights button (on the handlebar) is acting like the Hazard light switch.

[Mech]

It would pay to use an ohm/continuity gauge and check what the internal connections inside the old switch are, then check the new switch has the same switching options.

Is this bike like a car and have left and right indicator lights, and a separate switch to make them all flash in an emergency ?

[adr94]

Yes it is like a car. It is a QUADDY homologation for FRANCE.

Today the quad does not start. I turned the key, saw the neutral green light so I tried to start it. I heard a little "thump" and then nothing. Lights out, no more juice. 

Fuses (2x30 amps) are OK, battery at 12.7 V. 

I have no clue.

 

[adr94]

Same day 2 hours later, the quad starts easily. I fear it will do this again, I could not find any faulty wire / fuse. 

[Mech]

Since all the lights went off when it made the clunk noise and didn't start, it means the voltage dropped very low, which is why the starter didn't work, and since it started two hours later the battery can't have been flat, so it must have a bad connection somewhere. You should check the battery cables and the smaller wires going to the fuses and switches are tight everywhere, on the battery, on the body or engine, positive and negative. The battery cables, and wires, can get bad contact where the wire crimps into the metal terminals as well, and to find that you can inspect them, and wriggle them, and/or do what's known as a "voltage drop test".

To do the voltage drop test you attach a volt gauge from one end of the cable/wire to the other end of the cable you want to test, and when you press the start button that gauge should stay reading zero volts. If it shows a voltage when you are pressing the start button then it's because there's a bad connection somewhere and some of the power is going through the gauge. Because the bad connection might be in the crimped terminal or the connection between the terminal and the bolt it's attached to though you need the gauge right on the bolt/engine/starter solenoid stud, and right on the battery post.

It's also possibly a bad/dirty switch, either key or kill switch. To do a voltage drop test across them you attach the gauge with the key/switch off and it will show battery voltage, but when you turn the switch on it should bypass all the power going through the gauge and the voltage should drop to zero then.

[Gwbarm]

it does sound like a loose battery connection, seen that happen as you described many times