Clutch cover 2007 Honda trx500fe

[Mech]

The "master gasket", is 518 Gw.. Beautiful stuff.. Did I tell you about.........

[Ejwill]

I’ve been cleaning parts and the flanges. While I was working on the front casing gasket area I looked at the centrifugal clutch the outer ring and the two plates on the front of the clutch are blue, like they have gotten real hot. I wanted to mention it while I was this far. Didn’t know if there’s anything wrong or not. Didn’t exactly look good to me or maybe it’s normal. I know it’s got to get pretty hot.

[Gwbarm]

Good observation! It has gotten hot at some point in its life. Not necessarily getting hot now but could be. Since you are this far in , i would go ahead and remove the clutch plates and check everything out, when things get that hot they have a tendency to warp, i would also check the bearings and gears making sure everything is rolling smoothly as it should.

[Ejwill]

Ok, add that to the list. Do I need to pull the clutch or just remove the plates on the front of the clutch? Have to remember I don’t have a clue as to what I’m doing. Didn’t know if it would be easier to remove the clutch so I can get to everything easier. And mainly put everything back or if I can see enough by just removing the clips and the front plates. Thanks again.

[Mech]

The centrifugal clutch is on the left/upper and has shoes that fly out. The front/outer plates are not really wearing parts, they are there to keep the shoes in place, The wearing part, and the part where the heat got generated, is the shoes and the drum. There will be a measurement for the shoe thickness, and the drum you inspect. The old heat should be fine..

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Just testing my computer skills.. Haha.. skills.. hahahahah

Well that worked well then.. Not. How do we insert a picture ?

[Gwbarm]

My speculation is the clutch flyout shoes either stuck or were worn out metal touching metal, the heat generated was transferred thoughout the clutch housing, probably was rplaced by previous owner it would make a terrible noise. How does the inside of the drum look. I would definately inspect the outer bearing along with the one way bearing and make sure they still roll smoothly.

[Ejwill]

This loctite 518 gasket maker says you have to spray one side of the flange with loctite primer (part number 494147). Let sit 1-2 mins. then apply a continuous bead of the 518 on the unprimed surface. Assemble mating surfaces. Questions: Do you really need the primer spray? And question number two: In reference to assemble mating surfaces. How do you know if the surfaces are mating:) Didn’t want to assemble too soon or too late. When I bought the 518 there was no mention of spray primer. Now I guess I’ve got to order that. Or at least try to find it. Whether you are using it to make a gasket or dress a gasket you have to have the spray.

[Mech]

You don't need the primer spray. That makes it set faster, but at reasonable room temp it's set by the time you've finished putting your tools away.  In hot weather it takes about ten minutes, on a cold day twenty minutes, but it's oil tight immediately unless there is oil pressure, then allow the ten or twenty minutes.

Cut the nozzle end off so the hole is only about 1/16 diameter, then use it to smear a thin layer, real thin, over most of the surfaces. It will squeeze and spread sideways a little and you will know you've used enough and that the surfaces have mated when the excess sealer squeezes out of the join.

If the mating surface is about 1/4" wide run a 1/16" bead and then spread it around with the tip of the nozzle. You don't have to get it on every bit of the surface, it will squeeze sideways. Make sure you go right around bolt holes. And after you've used it a few times you will realise that the 1/16' bead is heaps for that 1/4" flange.. I use less than that. I hold the syringe perpendicular to the surface and just smear a real thin layer over most of the surface.. That stuff has never let me down..

[Ejwill]

Well, got the cover back on, used loctite 518 and a gasket. Got to finish putting the shift motor back on and finish putting the carburetor back on. All I lack on the carb is putting the tubes to the air filter back on got one to go on that. I didn’t go into the wet clutch because someone said that if it was bad it would be making a lot of noise, it wasn’t when I was riding it last time. Hope it is alright, if not I’ll just have a go at it again.  Got my fingers and my five toes crossed, only have five toes, lost my left leg due to a motorcycle accident. A guy turned in front of me and my nephew at a traffic light, my nephew had gotten back from Iraq, two tours not a scratch and almost gets killed in Georgia. That’s why I wanted that wall built. I went up over the car and landed on my left side crushing my left leg from my hip to my ankle and the radius and ulnar in my left arm. But I try to stay busy, don’t know if I’ll ever get the front end and all the plastic back on this thing. I figure It’ll all come together some day thanks for all the help everyone couldn’t do this without y’all. Of course it’s not up and going yet don’t want to count my chickens before they hatch. Thanks again. Will post what happens when I get it to the point it should go.

[Mech]

Ouch..  That's pretty much what put me off riding on the roads fifty years ago, seeing people getting hit by cars and other moving objects. I decided dirt riding was safer. I have ridden on roads(mainly back/metal roads) since but always on off-road bikes, other than customers I needed to ride.  Do you guys call crushed rock "metal" over there ?

And yeah, we hope it's going to be good..

[Ejwill]

Crushed rock I think would be same as what we call gravel roads. Spray tar /tac on the road and add rocks/gravel. Went to sturgis one year and on a paved road another guy flagged us down right around the curve it changed to loose gravel. It would have eaten us up if he hadn’t warned us.

Got a problem got everything back together except for the plastic. Was going to ride around the house a couple of times. Cranked it up, runs great, lot better than before. Put it in reverse and nothing. Just sat there. Went back to neutral and to first it felt like it had a little pull to it, just a little. Gave it some gas just sat there. I wasn’t getting any error codes at the time. Thought I would try the manual gear shifter, shifted to first nothing. It will show that it is shifting to all the gears with the shift button and the manual shifter but it will not move in any. After trying with the manual shifter I got the indicator back to neutral and the N started blinking 8 times. I believe that’s angle sensor or it’s wiring. It’s a new angle sensor, so I don’t know. At one time the 4 wheel drive indicator was blinking five times but it quit. I don’t know now. May have to start over, it’s just about to kill me. Any ideas, thought maybe change clutch, the adjustment screw is hard to turn again. Everything stayed in place when I put the cover back on. The adjustment may be way off it’s hard to turn so I don’t know if it’s right or not. Thanks.
Well I went back and turned the clutch adjustment a lot further counterclockwise and it started moving now. I guess when I put the adjustment bolt in the plate I must have screwed it in too far,. Runs good now, just tore up the yard a little bit. Now I’ve got to figure out how to put the plastic and front end back on. Started to leave it all off, looks like a rat bike now. Thanks for the help, I’m sure I’ll be back with something else. These electric shifts looks like they have a lot of problems. I may get one of the bypass harness to go on it. I think that’s angle sensor will illuminate some of the problems or create more. I’ll be back to the forum just to look around and see what everyone is doing. Thanks again. Jeff

[Mech]

haha.. All's well that ends well..

the plastics do keep the dirt off you..

And over here most of the roads are 1/2" ground rock stuck down in tar, but out in the country they just put 2" ground rock straight down, and grader it back to the center every so often.. That's the ones I like.

[Ejwill]

1 hour ago, Mech said:

haha.. All's well that ends well..

the plastics do keep the dirt off you..

And over here most of the roads are 1/2" ground rock stuck down in tar, but out in the country they just put 2" ground rock straight down, and grader it back to the center every so often.. That's the ones I like.

We can’t ride on any public roads on atv’s; golf carts and side by sides are ok in some situations. Atvs will get you a ticket. Wish we could ride on dirt roads, we can only ride on logging roads and field roads, private property types. I’ve been looking at some trails I might try, just not any near by, that I’ve found. Some day when I hit the lottery I’m going to come to New Zealand. Watched a show they were hunting red stag and wild feral hogs, looks like a fantastic place.

 

 

 

Crushed rock I think would be same as what we call gravel roads. Spray tar /tac on the road and add rocks/gravel. Went to surges one year and on a paved road another guy flagged us down right around the curve it changed to loose gravel. It would have eaten us up if he hadn’t warned us.

Got a problem got everything back together except for the plastic. Was going to ride around the house a couple of times. Cranked it up, runs great, lot better than before. Put it in reverse and nothing. Just sat there. Went back to neutral and to first it felt like it had a little pull to it, just a little. Gave it some gas just sat there. I wasn’t getting any error codes at the time. Thought I would try the manual gear shifter, shifted to first nothing. It will show that it is shifting to all the gears with the shift button but it will not move in any. After trying with the man