Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I got asked to work on a pair of Yamaha 350's.  One has grizzly stickers, one has bruin stickers.  Both are 2wd, straight rear axle.  Not sure what year.  I'd guess '04-'08.

Both have a no start condition.  Both have been sitting 2+ years.  One came with box of parts the owners 15 year old kid removed to try and get it running.

Started working on one last night.  Pulled the rack, front plastic, fuel tank, recoil starter, carburetor.  

Removed petcock from tank, cleaned screens, made sure if flows air, reinstalled.

Drained fuel tank, put in fresh fuel, swirled it around, letting is soak and will drain and check it later.

Cleaned up the motor a bit since its covered in mud.  Checked the valves.  The intake had less zero, actually, probably less than zero clearance.  The valve seems like it was hanging open just a touch even at TDC.

The exhaust had maybe .004 clearance.  I assume that went to zero once running.  

Adjust intake to .008.  Adjusted exhaust to .018

Scrubbed the carb in a sink with a toothbrush, dawn, and water.  It looked like a mudball.

After that, sprayed it down with carb clean and took it to the bench.  A/F screw was 1.75 turns out.  I'm thinking this is a factory setting.  It seems like this machine was never touched by a mechanic.  All the jets actually seemed clear.  The bowl had minimal residue in it.

That about as far as I made it for the night.  Going to get a fresh plug, clean the air filter, add some fresh gas, and see if it will run.  If so, I'll probably clean up the oil cooler before putting it back together.  Maybe change the engine oil  and rear diff fluid too.  

Posted

Got a chance to work on this again.  Put the carb back together.  Cleaned up the boots on both sides.  Installed carb.  Dumped the fuel that was sitting in the tank.  Looked and smelled bad.  Put some fresh in and swirled it around a bit and dumped that.  Came out looking ok this time.  Threw the tank on, put a lawn tractor battery in the storage box and hooked it up.  Hit the start button and it fired right up!  Fuel was leaking everywhere.  The float was stuck and the bowl drain tube fell off.   I shook the bike to see if that would dislodge the float.  No luck but when I shake the bike, it bogs down severely.  Weird.....  

Tap on the carb a bit with a screwdriver handle and it quits leaking fuel.  1 problem solved.  Cut a 1/2" off the drain hose and reinstall.  Now it wont fall off.  2 problems solved.  I was scratching my head over the bogging when shaking the bike deal.  Even if I just gave it a little jiggle with the handlebars it changed how it ran.  After staring at it a few minutes I noticed that the choke cable is pulling out of the boot that screws into the carb.  Surely this can't be the issue.  I pushed the cable back in, started it up, and the bogging went away.   Took it for a test ride and adjusted the A/F screw a bit.  By now, its running pretty good.  I cleaned up the oil cooler, pulled it back in the garage and changed the oil, the diff fluid, and started putting the plastic back on.  

Time to move on the 2nd quad.

Posted

While working on quad #1, I found that the rear brake shoes need to be replaced.  The lining had totally come off the shoes when the drum was removed.  I found a set of NOS EBC shoes for $20 shipped! 

While the shoes are in transit, I pulled it out of the garage and pulled in quad #2.  I gave it the same treatment.  New plug, carb clean, valve adjust.  Test run went well, its a bit cold blooded compared to quad #1.  Maybe I'll back out the AF screw a bit to see if it changes anything.  #2 needed front pad, they were totally gone.  Rotors are actually scored a bit.  Found the lower A-Arm took a big hit.  Its all bent up.  Don't want to take a chance of a malfunction when kids are riding it so I recommended replacement.  Bought a new one and 2 new bushings.   Ended up buying new air filters for both machines.  They are pretty dry rotted.   

 

Took a look at #1 and noticed a tiny drip out the carb overflow.  So I ordered a new needle and seat for it.

 

Waiting on parts now.  

Posted (edited)

Rear brake shoes and the needle and seat came in for machine #1.  The rear shoe swap went easy.  I always cut the old springs out.  Cleaned up the posts that the shoes swivel on, and the cam that rotates to spread the shoes.  Applied molybdenum paste to those surfaces.  Cleaned out the drum.  Cleaned the splines, applied molybdenum paste to the splines too.  Brakes not only work, but the shoes retract now so, no more drag.

Pulled the carb, replaced the needle and seat.  Love these carbs with the set screw and o-ring to hold them in vs pressed in seats.

Reset the AF scre to 2.25 turns out.  I previously adjusted it when it was idling weird due to the choke cable boot not being in place.

Felt confident enough to put it all back together vs be testing it with the fuel tak sitting there. Turned on the gas and it was leaking everywhere!  I forget to install the float bowl drain screw.  I removed it to polish up the tip with some maroon scotch brite.

Put that back in and then started it up.  Runing great, stopping, and no more leaking from the overflow hose.  I parked it outside overnight with the drain hose on the floorboard for easy detection.

New A Arm, bushings, air filters and some misc stuff got delivered this AM. Will probably wait till Tuesday to install all that then hopefully be done.  We'll, not true, 1 needs a battery for sure.  One is still working but its 5 years old.  Figure ill just swap them both 

 

Edited by BruinBeater
  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By hengstserepair
      Howdy ya'll. I am working ona 2000 Yamaha Breeze 125. It was in rought shape when I received it and I am working through issues as they pop up. The quad had been sitting for years. I was able to get her running again, but I need your help with the following issue:
      I don't trust the transmission yet and I don't want to make problems any worse. So, I haven't pushed things hard at all. Low rpms, less than 5mph in reverse.

      Nuetral: Runs as expected
      Reverse: She seems to be driving fine at slow speeds. Going into reverse at idle is fine, coming out of reverse back into neutral won't work (the shifter is just stuck). As soon as I turn off the quad, I am able to shift around without any issue.
      Forward: It slips. It seems to only transfer power to the wheels on a smooth surface and going slightly downhill. When shifting into forward at idle, there is a clacking sounds during the transition. Shifting back to nuetral works just fine.

      Other Notable Symptoms: There was old oil in the vbelt and when I was tuning the carb, it starting blowing out of the CVT cooling vent at the front of the quad. Made quite a mess. There is positive crankcase pressure due to piston blowby, that I have not decided whether or not I am going to fix (customer budget dependant).  Since the oil was old, much darker than the new oil that is in the crankcase, I am thinking it seeped past a bad seal while it was sitting for years. The oil that was in it when I first got it had gas in it.

      Thoughts: I am thinking maybe there is an issue with the clutch. I worry about the old oil intermingling with the dry centrifugal clutch. I was thinking my next step would be to take the cover off of the clutch and inspect it.

      Let me know what you all think. Any advice and ideas is greatly appreciated. This is only the 3rd quad I have worked on and I have a lot to learn.

      Lorne
    • By Rockbottom
      2008 400 big bear was running now will not start
      have power to relay, in neutral, press start have power to starter but nothing happens starter does not turn
      i have good ground at battery to frame and added ground from wire harness to frame beside batter/ frame ground
      blue white wire to cdi has power with key on
      I believe the neutral lock out is working since is was before i shut it down
      if i put  it in gear and hit the start button with key on the relay does not click or send power the starter
      The 3 wires at the relay have power with key on
      What should i test next?
      thanks ahead
    • By Mister907
      Hi guys, I have a 2004 big bear 400. Last winter while plowing the driveway, I heard a loud pop from the left side of the engine. It continued to run as I looked for leaky fluid, but then died shortly after backing it up and won’t start now. The oil light comes on when I try to start it, no noise or anything else. 
      No blown fuses that I can find.
    • By jeffinotown
      Hey guys and gals. I've been working on my friends 2007 big bear IRS. Unfortunately after 3 different people got their hands on it and only made things worse every time.  After months of finding just crazy problems everywhere. I'm finally at the point we're its almost 100% !!! But I'm getting a short somewhere between the 4xW switch I believe. I managed to by searching the internet like a  fiend, got my hands on an official Yamaha wire harness for the year and make. But I don't have the numbered component list and to be honest. After hours of going through and making everything so it's  easy to reference. If anyone has a picture of the referenced components. I would be forever in your debt. I've spent hours marking up the blown up diagram so it will be easy, for any possible future repairs. Please and thank you. Here's a picture of what i have so far.  Unsealed it in plastic so oil and crap won't spill or get smudged. This damn things worth it's weight in gold.              Thanks Jeff                2007 Yamaha big bear 400 IRS.       YFM40FBW
    • By Brent Wright
      What's a good size to start a 10 year old on?
×
×
  • Create New...