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By middlebrookgt
I have replaced the cracked stator cover on my non-running 2006 LT-F400F that I purchased recently, checked all the shafts vs the service manual and pics and advice here. I replaced missing gears, bushings and washers, made sure that truth marks were all aligned properly, that the shift cam springs felt like they returned properly, etc. IAfter installing the new stator cover I checked the transfer lever for proper movement from L-H-R and then cranked it up. Happily, it runs and changes gears well in L, but it will not shift into H or R for anything. I have opened it back up and am going back through it looking for the missing puzzle piece(s) but how can I best check that I have everything right this time before buttoning it back up?
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By remnar
New member here,
I have searched here and other places and have not found an answer to my problem. As the title says I have a 2014 420 Rancher that recently started having an issue were the revs before the clutch engages.
I have checked the oil level (per the service manual) and replace the Valvoline ATV 10w40(less than 5 hours) with 10W30 GN4 for good measure. I have used the "pin" method to pull a DTC. I shows a 8-1 which is a TPS error. This makes some sense, as if the computer doesn't read throttle position correctly, it could have this symptom. I have checked the source voltage, and tested the TPS off the quad with a Fluke and a power supply at 5v. It is smooth and does not seem to be a bad sensor. I am confused by the DTC, because the PS light blinks the code, not the check engine light. However, there are no PS codes of that value. This condition appeared after a couple days of driving in the cold (~32°) and driving though some water/bogs.
A couple questions. First has anyone seen this issue, and do you have any suggestions? I have followed the troubleshoot right up to the point of replacing the ECU, which I don't seem to have one on the shelf :)
Second, anyone used a OBDII reader with an a 4pin adapter to pull codes? If so, what system do you use?
Beyond the rev issue, the quad runs and starts perfectly and when it decides, the clutch grabs tight (no slipping)
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By MMC
I have a Suzuki Quadmaster 500, that I got from a customer. It has less than 400 miles on it. I think I put most of the miles on it, so they sold it to me. I used to drive it a few times a year, treatinjg the gas or emptying it when I could.
I relocated and wanted to get it running again. It will start with little trouble, then run for 15-20 minutes, then start to chug a bit, then finally stop. Sometimes I can start it again, but it doesnt continue to run long after that.
when I first opened the oil filter when I moved, it was drenched in oil and fell apart. I went and replaced it with a OEM foam filter. I notice now, when it does stop, there is a small amount of oil on the bottom the air filter box, and it's clean oil. I had recently changed the oil before I moved. Each time I clean that up, I go through the same process. It will run, and I can drive it for a bit, but then it slows down and stops.
Any suggestions? I am not an ATV mechanic by far, but can work on most of the stuff I own. I did have trouble finding a dealer who would work on it. One local one, said "We dont' work on stuff that's over 20 years old" It can't be because of parts, I just laughed.
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By VikingTrad3r
I have an 86 yfm250 (moto4 250) i picked up.
It bogs and pops a bit out the tailpipe if you can even get it higher up in the rpm. It is pretty gutless. I have other 250’s (timberwolves) and its ultra gutless compared to them.
It has an aftermarket carb on it that has a “W” on it Its not a mikuni but it looks close
i figured jetting was off at the high end.
i had a mimuni that was very crusty, swapped the main jet into the W carb, and the needle, which was set on low slot 4 so left it there.
it actually ran much better, and cured what i thought was a problem caused by a lean condition from the W carbs main jet being too restricted when i compared to the factory mikuni
I had it out and was enjoying the upper rpms that i couldnt reach before without bog. at wot it would fall on its face low top speed.
after getting it hot, it would actually refuse to start after dying.
back to the drawing board.
when i first got it i adjusted the valves. So i retraced my work and thought maybe id overtightened. double checked, nope all good. .005 exh , .003 intake, check.
So i checked the compression.
here is the trickyness. help me understand this. I am at 3500ft asl in calgary canada
- initiate test, it goes to 75psi right away. this is low. Even at my elevation im thinking 110psi minimum
but....this thing starts no problem. even -20c it starts. makes no sense to me. so i press the starter again and it goes to 85. Then i press it again and no change. Then i turn over again and it jumps to 95. Then again...no change. Then again and it goes to 115. finally finishes at 120 and i cannot get it to go any higher than this.
ive repeated this multiple times.
i press and hold the starter...it will max at 75. Then a series of maybe 10 more quick turnovers from the starter and compression inches up to 120psi.
So, i think the low compression explains the low top end, and even the backfiring out the exhaust when hot. The exhaust is rich enough (incomplete combustion in chamber) and to ignite in the muffler.
it gets worse when hotter.
makes me think i have a crack, or something that is low down on the cylinder wall. When the piston stops just above it on the upstroke, and i then turn it over again, it adds pressure to my tester reading.
thoughts?
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By denno
Greetings. We just got this from my sister-in-law. (Bet she doesn't know, either!)
First the battery was wimpy. I discovered this battery needs to be filled (hadn't seen such in decades), and that NAPA sells the acid.
Now feels like it's not getting enough gas to catch. Added gas. No change. I would normally now try the choke, or starter fluid in the intake. Cannot find those! Cannot find a diagram. Oy!
Can you quit laughing long enough to help, please?
Thanx
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