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By SnowmanTX
Hello!
First time poster here, looking for help. This will be long, but I want to give you the whole story. I'm very confused because I am a fairly experienced mechanic but must be missing something. A friend who is not mechanical brought me a 2003 Eiger 400 automatic that didn't run. A quick inspection revealed that the motor was seized. I pulled the top end and found the cylinder and piston rings were rusted together from the machine having been submerged at some point and then left to sit for several years.
I put in a new piston and cylinder and checked the valve lash. Compression test today was 150 psi. Replaced the corroded vacuum petcock with a Yamaha petcock, cleaned the fuel tank out, and replaced all the fuel lines. Replaced the badly corroded carburetor with an Amazon aftermarket model (with good reviews) and it wouldn't start. Found that there was no spark so I substituted an Amazon 4-pin CDI box and found that I now have good spark. It still wouldn't start so I used a little starting fluid and it fired right up for about 3 seconds.
Now, after cleaning and checking out the new carburetor, I have found that when it cranks and fires, the engine actually kicks backwards momentarily and then resumes cranking. It is acting like the spark is way advanced and it is firing before TDC. I know that it is turning backwards momentarily because I still have the recoil off and I can see the starter cup rotating and then literally stopping momentarily when it fires. I've had the flywheel off to check the magnets and the woodruff key. The flywheel does not have the exposed magnets, but the fully enclosed magnets like the replacement RMStator flywheel. The woodruff key was in perfect condition. The pickup coil resistance test was good.
Since it seems like a timing issue, I pulled the cylinder head off again and double-checked the timing. It did appear that the timing marks were off by one tooth, so I corrected that and thought that I had found the problem. Unfortunately, it still does the same thing...It will crank just fine, but won’t start, and kicks backwards when it fires whether I use starting fluid or not.
Since the timing is not adjustable on this machine, I’m wondering if the factory CDI circuitry incorporates any type of variable timing feature that is dependent on RPM? That is about the only thing I can think of.
I've read other threads that discuss this "kickback" symptom and the usual culprits are weak battery or a too lean condition causing preignition. I've installed (and charged) a new battery and triple-checked both carburetors...the original one that I completely cleaned, and the Amazon replacement. Same response with both carbs, which leads me back to questioning the CDI.
Any body else run into this?
Thank in advance for your help.
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By 92BayouB
Hey there all,
First off thanks for the board. My Bayou 220 has survived 3 teenagers and is on its 4th now. Up until recently it has been a virtual tank....until I decided to fix it;)
Noticed some smoking from the engine block (not exhaust) so figured it was time for a quick top end rebuild. Now that I have it all back together, it fails to start. I've pulled the starter rope until my arm is tired.
So I will be as detailed as possible and hopefully get some help.
Completed:
-New Head gasket
-New Valve seals
-New piston (standard)
-New rings (standard)
-All new seals
-Cleaned up head and valves (didn't do any resurfacing, as it all cleaned up pretty easy)
-All torqued to spec
-Piston ring gaps all checked out
-Valve clearances (Intake: .18mm, Exhaust .20mm). Not too tight, not too loose.
Pros:
-Engine IS making decent compression
-DO have spark
-Will fire for a split second if I drop some gas in the spark plug hole and pull start. Will NOT from carb and or intake valve.
Timing:
So I followed the guide of: TDC
-Flywheel aligns on the “T” mark on the engine site hole
-Cam gear mark aligned with the cover mark
Seeing as this is my first time doing a top end rebuild on an ATV. Here are my questions and concerns:
-I didn't realize (dummy me) that there are 2 TDC's. 1- Compression, 1-Exhaust.
How do I know if I'm on the right one?
-Does the cam need to be aligned a certain way when put back in? I just aligned the cam gear dimple with the cam and put it in. No alignment.
Thanks ahead of time. I feel like I'm 90% there, but I'm missing an important step for completion.
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By quadmaniac
(Honda)
Honda is developing an off-roader that can carry just about anything, except a driver.
The 3E-D18 has a rack system that allows different types of gear and components to be attached to it. (Honda)
The 3E-D18 is an autonomous ATV designed to be used as a workhorse by construction crews, farmers, search and rescue teams, etc., or adventurers who just need a little help lugging their gear into the wilderness.
It can even accommodate elaborate mechanisms like a fertilizer spreader. (Honda)
The electric 4x4 is powered by swappable batteries and fitted with a rack system where all sorts of equipment can be mounted. Honda envisions it being used for spreading fertilizer, plowing snow, fighting forest fires and even picking crops, and its non-pneumatic “airless” tires mean it’s virtually flat-proof. Fitted with GPS and a guidance system, it can be summoned and deployed via an app on a smart device.
via GIPHY
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By mfallavol
I picked up a 2003 KLF-250 for my son's first ATV a few months ago. It had no compression and overall needed a lot of work.
To make a long story shorter, the major problems were in the head; mostly a bent valve. We got it back and working and he was enjoying it until it just died. Started back in to it only to find a broken timing chain. I figured it had gotten stressed due to whatever caused the bent valve so no big deal...so I thought. The problem is he was back riding it this weekend; probably has less than 4 hours on it since the timing chain was replaced and the same thing happened. He'd been riding it down the trail very gingerly, we stopped to chat and he went to give it gas and it gave a little 'pop' and died. When he hit the starter it was obvious it needed to be towed back.
Got it home to find the timing chain is broken again. I really have no idea why. It runs fine when running but now I'm gun shy.
Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated. He's getting pretty bummed so I'd like to get this figured out. Just ordered another timing chain so we'll get back into it this weekend.
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By Pure_Michigan
I bought this old three wheeler that I found in a barn. It looked pretty rough, but I have it running now and functioning.
With the switch set to "run" and the key in the "on" position the electric starter does not work when I push the starter button,
However, if I cross the solenoid it will work and it will start the engine - so I know the starter motor is good and it works.
Now, it gets a little mysterious. When the engine is running, AND the headlight is on high beam, the electric starter will engage when the starter button is pushed.....When its already running! (when the headlight is off or on "low" the starter button does nothing, only when running and in high beam will you hear the starter motor zing when you push the starter button) So, I know the button actually works, but only after the engine is already running and the high beam is on!
So to recap: with the key on, the starter button does nothing. crossing the solenoid will make the starter work, and after the engine is running the starter will work with the button!
Has anyone else had this problem? Can anyone point me in the right direction on solving this one?
Thanks!
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