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92BayouB

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  1. SOLVED: Actually feel silly for saying this. Turns out I just hadn't turned it over enough to build compression. Only 1 or 2 pulls of the pull start didn't cut it. Hooked up a car battery directly to the starter....cranked it hard for 10 seconds...and there you go. Just pulled started it for good measure too. First pull...fired right up.
  2. Ok, so I think I understand what you are saying, so let me give you an update. Pic below is my basic timing drawing. -IF its all lined up (timing correct) as it is...shouldn't the sensor/magnet on the flywheel match up exactly with the pickup coil for spark? Looks exactly that way in the manual. - I DO have spark. Have checked. My suspicion is: -the valves not sealing properly -not making enough rotations on the pull start alone to get it enough compression. I'm gonna have to find a way (hookup the wiring harness mess to the starter & battery) or do the ol power drill/turn the crank method. Keep you updated. Thanks.
  3. @Dave Randolph Thanks for the response. Pics attached. The timing/cam is lined up as perfectly as I could get it. On the compression stroke. To be clear the ONLY time it "fired" was when I poured a bit of gas directly into the cylinder from the spark plug hole. Will not fire through carb. And when I say "fired" it made only a quick pop for a half second. Nothing actually started. Put on a new carb. Still nothing. Checked the compression. Ranged from 90-100psi. Very low, yes,. But as I understand it, the motor hasn't really even started, or moved more than a couple revolutions, so the rings aren't seated and it can't really build compression. What are the chances its the valves? Not completely sealing. I have a hard time believing that, as I would think something would run at this point...but I'm new to this so you never know. @Mech "Fires" just meant it did make a pop when I poured some gas directly into the spark plug hole, and pulled the starter rope. As I attached, the timing is lined up as perfectly as can be on the compression stroke. Wasn't apart for long, I checked every hose for blockage. I highly suspect the valves at this point. Just running out of options. It was running (badly) before I rebuilt the top end...now nothing.
  4. Hey there all, First off thanks for the board. My Bayou 220 has survived 3 teenagers and is on its 4th now. Up until recently it has been a virtual tank....until I decided to fix it;) Noticed some smoking from the engine block (not exhaust) so figured it was time for a quick top end rebuild. Now that I have it all back together, it fails to start. I've pulled the starter rope until my arm is tired. So I will be as detailed as possible and hopefully get some help. Completed: -New Head gasket -New Valve seals -New piston (standard) -New rings (standard) -All new seals -Cleaned up head and valves (didn't do any resurfacing, as it all cleaned up pretty easy) -All torqued to spec -Piston ring gaps all checked out -Valve clearances (Intake: .18mm, Exhaust .20mm). Not too tight, not too loose. Pros: -Engine IS making decent compression -DO have spark -Will fire for a split second if I drop some gas in the spark plug hole and pull start. Will NOT from carb and or intake valve. Timing: So I followed the guide of: TDC -Flywheel aligns on the “T” mark on the engine site hole -Cam gear mark aligned with the cover mark Seeing as this is my first time doing a top end rebuild on an ATV. Here are my questions and concerns: -I didn't realize (dummy me) that there are 2 TDC's. 1- Compression, 1-Exhaust. How do I know if I'm on the right one? -Does the cam need to be aligned a certain way when put back in? I just aligned the cam gear dimple with the cam and put it in. No alignment. Thanks ahead of time. I feel like I'm 90% there, but I'm missing an important step for completion.
  5. did Kawasaki make the bayou 220 in 4x4? they did make a 300. The 220 is a perfect "small-big" size. Not a toy, but not the size of a ford ranger.
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