Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Recommended Posts



The only thing I have found in the way of aftermarket headers for the 300EX is from HMF.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know if they sell the head pipe separate from the whole system or not;but I got a full system FMF exhaust for my 250X(uses the same exhaust as 300EX)for around 300 bucks.Hope this helps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Jeremy Morris
      If you're getting that pesky leaky seal on the pinion of your front differential and the pinion has allot of play, polaris won't sell the bushing needed to repair it properly without having to shell out big bucks for the complete ring and pinion kit. 
      I have a kit with an upgraded bushing, Japanese made bearing and USmade seal
      50 shipped in the US and 55 to Canada

    • By Hilltopmike
      Hi Folks,
      Just bought this 1991 King Quad and it is missing the right front axle.  It runs and drives in 2 wd, would be nice to find parts or whole axle to make the 4 wd drive work again.  A rebuildable  axle would be fine.  Any help would be great.  
      Thanks Hilltopmike

    • By Acdacd
      Hello folks, 
      Total newb here, but I just ordered both front and back brakes and they are identical. 
      There is a video on you tube for the back install, does anyone know if the front install will be the same? 
      Thanks!
    • By qcm413
      Hi,
      Thanks for a newbie on this site !
      i have grinding noise in my front differential. the front right wheel is turning and the left is try to turn but no movement and make sound like a gear broken. somebody have any idea ? not enough oil in diff ?
      thank
    • By Admin
      Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments.
      Source: http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/free/steering/atv-front-end-alignment/
      When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare.
      One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine.
      Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel.
      Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components.
       

      The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider.

      Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks.

      Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B.

      Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual.

      To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads.

      Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod.

      When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly.
       
      Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:
       
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Maggie Hall
      View File 2007 2008 2009 Honda 300ex Service Repair Manual Trx300X Trx300EX ATV
      2007 2008 2009 Honda 300ex Service Repair Manual Trx300X Trx300EX ATV
      Submitter Maggie Hall Submitted 11/28/2018 Category Honda ATV  
    • By Maggie Hall
      2007 2008 2009 Honda 300ex Service Repair Manual Trx300X Trx300EX ATV
    • By Ashley Bell
      I have a 2005 Honda 300EX that won't start. I've changed the starter and I've changed the solenoid. When I try to push start it the back wheels skid, it's a manual. I've charged the battery and I've done the screwdriver trick with the solenoid that won't start it. It tries to crank but it won't turn over.  
      I was out riding for about an hour or two and then it quit on me. Before I went riding I change the air filter and I change the oil. 
      Heeeeelp. Suggestions? I'm learning all of this info myself from forums. Thanks. 
    • Guest Fox300exchic
      By Guest Fox300exchic
      I was wondering if I could fit a bumper for a different quad on my 300ex? There is one in motosport that I want but they dont make it for mine. If so which one?
    • By quad man
      Can somebody please tell me if 250x or 250ex nerf bars will fit on 96 300ex, and will 93-98 300ex nerf bars work on my 96 300ex? Thanks
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...