Doing this for the first time on the old 2011 Grizz 700 and have a few q's?
I've found valve clearance specs as such...
Intake 0.09–0.13 mm (0.0035–0.0051 in)
Exhaust 0.16–0.20 mm (0.0063–0.0079 in)
If anyone can confirm that'd be great. I've been told to adjust the valve clearances to the top of the range in anticipation that they will tighten over time. This sound about right?
Are these the only two o-rings I'll need to replace? Both #18s in the schematic...
Yamaha ATV Parts 2011 GRIZZLY 700EPS 4WD HUNTER - YFM7FGPHA CYLINDER HEAD Diagram
And finally, which of those two valve covers are the intake and exhaust?
Also, was wondering about replacing my two gear box oil drain plugs and engine oil plug with the magnetic Gold Plugs. But at a price of $60 I'm wondering if they're actually worth it. Do people regularly find metal bits attached to these plugs?
A week ago I could not even get close to starting it. But now I adjusted the valves (exhaust valve was not closed). i got it running but would not run without choke. i adjusted the float because it was to low tried starting it up again and it would not even start. So i went back and looked at the valves and the valve was now open again so i adjusted it and it started right up and ran perfect without choke. So i put it all back together thinking it was ready to go. Started it up and let it run for a little bit. i turned it off and tried starting it again there was NOTHING. took it apart and there was 0 compression and the exhaust valve was open again. I am completely lost need help PLEASE!!!:aargh:
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