Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By quadcrazy
      If you are a new member, why not introduce yourself? This community thrives and grows with you and all our current members! We all want this community to grow and encourage new member registrations. That being said please help out QuadCRAZY by inviting other atv'ers to the community.
      QUADCRAZY NEEDS YOU!
    • By David Cameron
      The small waterline insert for the hose that goes from the water pump cover to the thermostat housing has corroded off. I only need the insert on top and behind the thermostat housing that the hose goes over and can't find just the insert. It looks like it may be pressed in. I've have been told the entire motor housing needs to be replaced. The pic with the red line indicates where the hose and insert would be and the insert looks like the pic of the water pump  Any ideas would be really appreciated.
       
       



    • By DayBreakJim
      So my latest wheeler is a 04 Yamaha Bruin 350. It had all the wires cut from the stator and a few others and no wiring harnesses. The previous owner had them all twisted together and the bike neutral light would come on it would start (hard to start) but then would idle fine. It would die when you gave it gas so I soldered all the wires together and went on inspecting assuming it was a carb issue. Later after the carb was cleaned and adjusted I got this (see video). The bike would want to die anytime you gave it gas and there would be this horrible knocking sound but only when you gave it gas. I was worried it was the rod bearing and electrical still messed up somehow.
      Upon further inspection of the wires coming from the stator there was a W/R wired to R and a R wired to W/R. I switched them so they matched per the service manual (W/R to W/R and R to R) and the bike started right up, idled and revved out fine and the knocking noise disappeared. This was the problem the whole time. It was just really hard to tell bc the oem wires coming from the stator were so brown and dirty I could barely make out which was which.
      Where the hell did that knocking noise go? and what was causing it?? Just racking my brain trying to figure out what it was so I know for next time but I can't make sense of it... Really thought it was the rod bearing but it didn't make the noise at idle so I was questioning it...Luckily I kept searching!!

      20230725_171507.mp4    
       
       
    • By n4cer26
      Just finished replacing water pump seals and impeller on my 97 Magnum 425 due to oil leak out of the weep hole. Haven't owned it very long and have only riden around the yard a couple times because I only recently got it. I installed a new bullet aluminum impeller and made sure the nut was tight and that thebimpeller was not spinning on the shaft. My oil leak is now fixed.
       
      I filled the radiator and let it run. The motor seemed to be getting hot and the radiator fan never came on. Looking into the radiator its hard to tell if the coolant is circulating due to the vibration of the quad. Never looked down the radiator prior to pump rebuild so not sure how it compares now.
       
      Think it could be a bad thermostat or air in the system? Is there a refill procedure? Any advise is appreciated!
       
      Sent from my SM-F926U using Tapatalk
       
       
    • By n4cer26
      I chased down the leak on my 97 Magnum 425. I have a nice leak coming from the water pump weep hole. I am being told the oil seal inside the pump needs to be replaced. Can anyone tell me what is involved in the repair. Can it be done without pulling the motor? Thank you!
       
      Sent from my SM-F926U using Tapatalk
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...