Quantcast
Jump to content


1994 Polaris 400L rough running


Miles_Togo

Recommended Posts

Howdy,

I have a problem with my 1994 Polaris 400l, it has been running bad for a while, the last time we took it out we had to change the plugs twice as they blackend/oiled up and the bike started running rough, i've stripped down the carb and cleaned it all out, i've checked the oil pump mix ratio, the reeds are seated correctly, the air cleaner is clean.

the idle screw is wound all the way in and i still had to adjust the throttle cable at the control to get the bike to idle. low end is lumpy and the bike will not pull uphill, on a flat the bike will run smother once the bike gets moving but there's not the speed there used to be.

I also checked the bottom of the piston and there appears to be no damage there, the engine sounds ok when it idles, oh and i also checked the exhaust and that appears to be ok.

One more thing, the bike was put on it's side around 3 months ago and when it was restarted i had to turn up the idle screw so it would idle. Any advise would be great.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like oil is leaking into the crankcase, most likely crank seals, but it could be the center case gasket. I would start with the crank seals because they are cheap and easier. If you end up having to split the cases, you might want to change the crank bearings as well, since you are already in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First thing I would do from that point is keep pre-mixing your fuel, and properly block off the oil injection. Since you said running pre-mix improved things slightly you may just need to burn off the excess oil that may have accumulated in your crankcase. The oil injection system may have been putting to much oil to the motor. If that doesn't work, then you may be getting the oil from the counterballancer housing. Normally on a two stroke motor there will be oil on one side of the crank that is held out of the crankcase by a seal that goes on the outside of the crank bearing. Your motor looks to be a bit different than what I am used to seeing but there is definately oil on the outdrive side of your crank outside of the crankcase. This oil is for the counterballancer and the gears that run it, one on the crankshaft and one on the counterballancer. I also noticed that the oil pump you were talking about seems to be mounted in this area as well. I would guess that the pump circulates oil between the counterballancer and the gearbox which is separate from the rest of the motor. From what I can tell, you could be leaking oil from the counterballancer into the crankcase because the case center gasket is leaking or because the right hand side crank seal is leaking. It looks to me like you will have to remove the recoil starter, flywheel, stator, and the cover behind the stator to get to that seal. To get to every thing else you would have to split the case halves. The other crank seal even looks like it goes on the inside of the case.

Edited by DirtDemon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ran like a dream today, no bogging out, able to climb hills, just have to strip and clean carb one more time but looks like the problem may of been the oil pump, i'll let you know as soon as i do.

It died today after running good for about 20 miles, would not start and then when it did start it sounded like it was starving for fuel, plug was pretty clean and would only start on the choke, took the carb off and cleaned out again, started it up and on full throttle it would only run for a few seconds and it took full throttle to idle, any other ideas?

Many thanks.

Edited by Miles_Togo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By semicolon
      Hi, I am having issues with my TRX350D fuel pump.  It suddenly stopped running so I have replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals.  I have fitted a new pump, fuel cut-off relay and rectifier.  Still nothing!!  The pump runs when attached to a battery.  The engine will start on the choke and the filter fills with fuel but it will  not rev and dies when the choke is closed. I have power to the relay but nothing at the pump black/white wire when cranking the engine.  Any ideas where to go from here would be very much appreciated!!
       
    • By rgeiser
      View File 2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      Submitter rgeiser Submitted 04/18/2024 Category Polaris UTV  
    • By N00bie
      From Arkansas. Just bought a 2012 Gator 850i RSX because I could not pass up the price. BUT it has an idle problem. So, to be honest, I joined just to get a service manual. I have a choice: 1)Buy a hard copy: ~$100; 2)Buy a CD ~$35.00; Get a direct download for free posting 10 times; or get a download for $29.00 (subscription). Haven't decided what to do yet.
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By skittle021
      So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
      To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
      Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
      Photos: 
       





×
×
  • Create New...