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Similar Forum Topics
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By Rockbottom
Any body have a part number for replacing the safety interlock on the left brake so you can start the engine with the brake handle pulled and in gear
or how to bypass this function so you can start in gear
thanks ahead
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By Gwbarm
I pulled out my Big Bear needed to do a few things probably havent been started in a year. Gassed it up charged the battery started right up. I have been using it around the property for this and that. Went to hook up my trailer to pull up to the house while it was idling it quit. Went to start it turned over but wouldnt start. After trying a few more times lost all power. Pulled it up to the house with the John Deere, the first thing i checked was the Universal fit soloenoil from Amazon and it was only a 10 AMP fuse so it does not universally fit the big bear it should be 30 AMP fuse. At the time i remember noticing it but forgot, at the time i had other problems like wiring harness being in a box stuck engine and no spark. when i bought it, yeah i know, thats one ishould have walked away from, but if i go to the trouble of hooking up my trailer and going there, its following me home.
Thats old news, i still need to check it all out see if it lost spark and see if the starter shorted out it was acting kind of sluggish, i replaced the fuse with the spare 10 amp and blew immediately. I will try a 30 and see what happens.
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By mans
Were is the neutral safety switch on 03' Kodiak 400 4x4 . How xan i check it to see if it's good for a no neutral light no power to machine. Ty
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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By Frank Angerano
I’m looking for any member that may be familiar with the neutral safety switch on this bike.
I picked up a bayou 220 that I found sitting in a shed. Nice looking bike the guy said it would not start one day and put it away and never touched it again.
So it turns out the neutral safety switch is bad. I jumped it out and the bike fired up and runs good.
I’m more then capable of the work in changing it but this thing is buried pretty good. I’m curious if anyone has done the switch replacement before?
I attached some pics to see.
picture 1 is the side view you can see the green and red wires going into the cover.
Pic 2 shows looking down on the drive shaft coming out of that cover. That is not a simple cover you just pull off.
Im wondering how deep and how much sh** has to come off like the drive shaft etc for this switch to be replaced.
So if any of the QC members have done this switch I’m looking for any input with regard to changing it.
Thanks.
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