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By middlebrookgt
I have replaced the cracked stator cover on my non-running 2006 LT-F400F that I purchased recently, checked all the shafts vs the service manual and pics and advice here. I replaced missing gears, bushings and washers, made sure that truth marks were all aligned properly, that the shift cam springs felt like they returned properly, etc. IAfter installing the new stator cover I checked the transfer lever for proper movement from L-H-R and then cranked it up. Happily, it runs and changes gears well in L, but it will not shift into H or R for anything. I have opened it back up and am going back through it looking for the missing puzzle piece(s) but how can I best check that I have everything right this time before buttoning it back up?
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By joezee13
After turning off engine in neutral starter wont engage If I rock unit back and forth it engages Getting progressive worse.
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By middlebrookgt
Hi All. I introduced myself some weeks ago with my 2006 LT-F400F that needed a list of repairs including replacing the cracked generator cover. It is back together as of last night and cranks up, idles and revs high pretty well. Needs some fine tuning and stop backfiring at stop.
The big issue is it will not go into gear. I reassembled the insides with help from y’all’s posts. The transfer selector moves from H-L-R, and the foot shifter moves thru the gears and finds neutral easily enough. Before I tear it back open, the transfer selector on top does not move as far as the repair manual says. The diagram shows the shaft moving something like 40 degrees between L and H and 50+ degrees between L and R but it doesn’t move that far even though it finds the indent areas and moves well.
Could this be the problem. I aligned all the dots on the shifter gears inside and it appeared to not be binding anywhere. I do hear the gears touching when I shift like they are trying to engage, but zero movement from the ARV
It was somewhat difficult to tell whether all the parts are installed on each shaft.
Are there better/bigger photos somewhere that would allow me to be confident I included all the washers and bushings, etc? If I had any doubt on parts that were laying inside after the cover broke then I purchased replacements from online stores.
TIA for any input or feedback!! Pics are from when I first took the generator cover off.
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By Ejwill
I rebuilt the top end on my 2007 Honda Trx500fe. It ran fine right after the rebuilt. But now when I try to crank it it blows Bach through the carburetor. I held my hand over the opening for the intake air and it blew gas back on my hand. Can figure out what happened all of a sudden. It was cranking and was able to ride it running through all the gears. Now can get it to crank just blowing gas back to the air filter. Need help again. Starting to think I should have walked away from this one.
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By mywifeknowseverythin
For those of you who are into coffee, I found this little article that might interest some of you.
I admit it. I am a coffee snob. I try not to be obnoxious about it, but let the record show: I enjoy a really great cup of coffee. But pay $4 a cup for it? No way. Even snobs have their limits.
Over the years, I’ve learned that a really good cup of coffee has less to do with money and more to do with knowledge and care. In fact—and this is the amazing thing—the more I learn, the less I spend.
BEANS. Purchase whole bean coffee as soon after it has been roasted as possible. Freshness is the key to a superb cup of coffee. Purchase in small amounts—only as much as you can use within 2 weeks of being roasted.
RATIO. The perfect ratio of coffee beans (prior to grinding) and water is: One-half cup whole beans to 8 cups of water.
GRIND. Grind your beans as close to brew time as possible. A burr or mill grinder that crushes the beans is preferable to a blade grinder that cuts them. Once ground, coffee should be used immediately.
WATER. If your water is highly chlorinated use bottled or filtered water. It must be right at 200 F, just short of boiling temperature, when it hits the dry grinds. This is critical to creating a great cup of coffee. Consume immediately.
STORE. The enemies of roasted coffee beans are air, moisture, heat and light—in that order. Keep your beans in an airtight container that is not close to moisture (sink, dishwasher), heat (oven, stove) or light (countertop). Do not store your daily coffee in the refrigerator or freezer because contact with moisture causes it to deteriorate. For larger quantities of roasted beans that you cannot use within 2 weeks, wrap in airtight bags and store for up to a month in the freezer—making sure the beans are completely protected against moisture. Once removed from the freezer, do not return.
BUY. Most supermarkets offer high-quality, roasted coffee beans for $.60 to $1 per ounce ($9.50 - $16.00 per pound). Ouch! Discount warehouse clubs like Costco, Sam’s and B.J.’s have considerably less expensive coffee at about $9 a pound for name brands like Starbuck’s and Peet’s. Still, that’s too rich for my blood.
ROAST. I roast my own coffee for two reasons: It is infinitely better tasting and half the price. I purchase green coffee beans by mail order for about $4 - $6 a pound, depending on current conditions and variety. I started out roasting in a popcorn popper (West Bend’s Poppery II is ideal) and have graduated to a small coffee roaster. My favorite resource for everything from roasting instructions to green coffee beans is http://www.u-roast-em.com/. Owner Jim Cameron has a wealth of knowledge and is anxious to share.
You won’t believe how easy it is to roast coffee. And enjoyable, too. I roast only one-week’s worth at a time—about twenty minutes. Green coffee beans have an indefinite, useful shelf life of at least a year, and probably two or longer. But I’ll never know. Coffee beans just don’t last that long around my house!
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