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I know this has been talked about, so i did some research.
After my research, i started buying parts.
Here are the parts you need:
51380-HP7-A00, left front upper control arm
51370-HP7-A00, right front upper control arm
51350-HP5-600, right front lower control arm
51360-HP5-600, left front lower control arm
44615-HP5-600, front drive hubs (need 2)
53521-HP5-600, tie rods (need 2, this is just the adjuster rod, not the tie-rod ends)
51200-HP5-600, right steering knuckle
51250-HP5-600, left steering knuckle
53235-HP5-600, steering arm (connects the tie rod ends to the steering shaft)
23611-HP5-600, "final shaft", goes inside the engine, provides power to front and rear driveshafts)
40400-HP5-600, front driveshaft
44250-HP7-A31, right front axle
44350-HP7-A31, left front axle
11300-HP5-000, front crankcase cover
50350-HP5-600, front differential support bracket
41400-HP5-A50, front differential unit
You also need the 4wd shift lever and the cable that connects it to the differential. there is not a part number for the whole assembly, just look on ebay. thats where i got mine.
Now on to the good part, the turning of wrenches:
Here is the engine before removal:
front differential in position:
^^^notice the "TRX420TM" decal, indicating 2wd
Here is a pic of the "final shaft", comparing the 2wd (in my hand) to the 4wd (in the engine).
^This is the most difficult part of this conversion, removing and opening the engine to swap out this shaft. However, there is a lovely video on youtube showing how to rebuild this engine and they clearly show the steps to remove/replace the rear cover and final shaft. Dont forget to remove the front cover before installing the new shaft, it will not fit thru the 2wd front cover.
link to video>:
once the new shaft is installed:
you will need to install the front and rear covers using sealant, make sure all shims/washers and o-rings are in place in the correct locations referencing the video above.
here is the right front corner mostly assembled:
and fully assembled with hub, rotor, and brake caliper:
I do have more pictures to upload, when i have more time i will update this further
I just bought a 2018 Can Am 570 Outlander and was hoping to try to find a way to convert a Can Am 2-up seat that I picked up on Craigslist to my new machine in some fashion. No way to do it without the seat sitting up 8-9 inches above the main seat. Scrapped that Idea but decided to try to convert it to my Honda Rancher. Also in a way that would allow me to remove it quickly and allow access to my battery compartment if necessary. Here's what I came up with.
Since the seat has two fork like protrusions on the front underside I needed to come up with something that they would lock into. On rear underside there is a spring loaded handle that allows it to lock onto a 3/8" round bar. I wanted the bar that the front part of the seat locked into to also be removable so I came up with a design for the bar that would slide onto the front side of the rear rack and pin into place using the rack itself as the mounting base. Then I welded a couple pieces of 3/4" pipe to the rear part of the rear rack with a piece of 3/8" solid bar stock onto the front of the two pieces of pipe that were welded to the rear section of the rack. The forks of the seat lock into the front bar, the pipes at the back not only support the rear part of the seat but act as a centering guide for the two locking mechanisms that lock onto the 3/8" bar stock. When it is locked into place it is extremely solid and has no way of coming loose except when I release the spring loaded handle. And it actually doesn't look too bad when installed either. Plus, the front side of the rear seat acts as a back rest for the small of the drivers back, pretty cool.
This is part number: RDBK-H.
TRX300 2x4 1988-2000
TRX300 4x4 1988-2000
TRX350 RANCHER 2x4 2000-2006
TRX350 RANCHER 4x4 2000-2006
TRX400AT RANCHER 400 2004-2007
TRX420 RANCHER 4x2 2007-NEWER (with Solid Rear AXLE, not IRS MODELS)
TRX420 RANCHER 4x4 2007-NEWER (with Solid Rear AXLE, not IRS MODELS)
TRX400 FOREMAN 4x4 1995-2003
TRX500 RUBICON 2001- NEWER
TRX500 FOREMAN 500 2005-NEWER
So we start it off, everything was packaged nicely.
Full color instructions....nice touch:
Disc looks sturdy:
I have a 99 Yamaha bear tracker and I have converted the front brakes from drum to disc fairly easy but I cant figure out how to convert the rear with out hacking apart the rear arm. tried to use parts from a wolverine since the rear arms look similar but the caliper mount didn't line up on the bear tracker axle. Can anyone give me any clues or has anyone successfully converted the bear tracker rear brakes. I would even purchase a conversion kit if there is one. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
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I know this tooic has been addressed by many, I’ve looked through many forums and pages. I did not find anything like the problem i have.
I have a 2007 Kingquad 450. I have a new fully charged battery. When i turn the key, the dash flashes and seems to struggle before getting fully lite. We can hear a small relay near the computer clicking, i think it is the fuel pump relay. When i turn off the engine kill switch and press the starting button relays click and all the power shuts off, i turn the key off, engine kill switch then start over, power is there. Atv will start with pull start, but not elextricly. if i try to use my winch, all power cuts and engine dies.
Can anyone tell me what it may be? or has anyone fsced an issue like this before?
I have a 2018 Kodiak 450 EPS that just this past Sunday I ran through a bit of water.
After the puddle the belt was slipping, so I pulled over and drained the ultramatic housing and the slipping problem went away. This was all in L and everything seemed to work fine. Later when I got on a road, I put it in H, but it still rode like it was in low... i.e. I had to rev it up a lot just to get to 30mph.
When at home I pulled the ultramatic cover off to inspect, and it looked okay in there. Not much dirt, belt and everything are clean, but when I rev up the engine (with cage in place, of course), the belt doesn't get to the top of the clutch (maxes out about an inch or 1.5" from top of clutch, so maybe it is normal).. I put it back together but same thing... H seems like L still.
Do you think the clutch needs to be further dissected for cleaning, or could this be an issue with the gear selector?
By Steven Alter
I have a 2018 450 and the digital gause has started flashing on an off while driving. The backlit also goes on and off. It is worse when I hit the gas. The battery died a few weeks ago and I jumped it but its been fine until last night. Called the dealer and showed them a vid and they recommend replacing the gauge and its like 600 bucks. The machine has less than 100 hours on it. I would really hate to have to change it out. also the unit sometimes has trouble starting. Any ideas?
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