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Similar Forum Topics
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By Brantley11
Hey everybody,
My proficiency is with Hondas and Yamahas make me see RED!
This bike is my brother in law's, it has 1199 miles on it and went from running great to dead with no start. Every once and a while it will start and sputter for 2 seconds. It is extremely sporadic when it fires but never runs for longer than 3 seconds.
Here is where we sit:
Brand New Fully Charged battery
Carb was cleaned with air hose and carb cleaner then into the ultrasonic cleaner with Aircraft aluminum cleaner
New Shindy Carb kit (made in Japan version)
Cleaned out petcock and gas tank
New 93 Non Ethanol Gas
New Spark Plug
It gets a spark through the spark test light every time
Bluish white spark
When holding the spark plug 1/4" - 3/8" away from head it will jump and spark to the head
Good Compression
Here are the readings:
Pickup Coil 519 Ohms (range 459-561)
Charging Coil 266 Ohms (range 270-330)
Lighting Coil 0.700 (range 0.702-0.858)
Spark plug Cap 10.58 Ohms (10kohms
Ignition Coil Primary Coil 0.5 ohms (range 0.18-0.28 ohms)
Ignition Coil Secondary Coil 8.20 kOhms (range 6.32-9.48 kOhms)
Would y'all think stator and pick up coil, rectifier or CDI are the culprit?
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By mga
I just saw a video on TikTok where some guy took the rear end off an ATV and bolted on a roto tiller in place of rear wheels. I wish i saved that video to post here....good thing it was 4 wheel drive...lol but, it seemed to work.
I'm not sure how he made it bolt on to the drive....
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By jatho
What is the best engine oil to use for the Suzuki King Quad - also any other tips and tricks I should know before doing an oil change on these bikes
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By kiriyaaoi
Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves. From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match. I have no idea what this would cost.
2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
#1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option. However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number, 11100-19B10, instead of 11100-19B01 like for all earlier models. What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years. Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical. Would those work as well possibly? I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on. Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
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By Drillbit
Hey all,
I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
Thanks!
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