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About ThomTwo

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  • Birthday 08/08/1944
  1. ThomTwo


  2. The saga continues with my 94 Kodiak not starting when engine is cool to the touch, but will start and run great after warming the engine head to 80 degrees or above with a heat gun. If you've been following my posts you know what has been checked and rechecked. All of the following have been done by the dealer: Carb rebuilt Compression Good Leak Down check performed Ignition Coil checked All wiring ohm to spec Valves checked and adjusted Top End preformed Starter checked Voltage to Starter checked Pickup Coil ohm to spec Source Coil ohm to spec Spark Voltage to spec It stil
  3. Refer to my earlier post ***UP-UP-UP DATE on '94 KODIAK Won't start when Engine is Cool. It will now start cold with the Pull Rope. Could it be a dirty or bad gap on the pulse coil? As you can see by my earlier post, the dealer and I have tried everything.
  4. The dealer just finished doing the last thing he thought was why the '94 Kodiak wouldn't start until the head was warmed up to 80 degrees. A complete TOP END was done, cylinder bored, new piston and rings. Still won't start when engine is cool to the touch. THINGS DONE IN THE PAST. Carb rebuilt (Twice) Compression Checked CDI Tested Good All Relays tested Good All wiring Ohm to Spec. All wiring connection checked and dielectric grease added. Stator and Pulse Coil tested Three different Spark Plugs tried Spark Good Valves adjusted, Seats cleaned. Ignition Coil Replaced I ca
  5. swampcat, Thats pretty much what I had planned to do after calling Superwinch customer service yesterday.
  6. I was given a Superwinch LT3000 and I can't find a mounting plate listed to fit my 1994 Yamaha Kodiak YFM400FWF. I guess I could make one, but I'd have to buy the steel and bolts that may cost as much as buying one that fit. -- Any Ideas.
  7. I gave the dealer the OK to do the work. Cost $400. They have checked everything else from wiring to carb and the Kodiak is in great shape otherwise. • Valves Good. • Timing Chain Good. • Cam and Crank Good. • Transmission Good. I am gonna need to replace some rubber boots. I can replace a lot of stuff for less than $7000+ for a new machine.
  8. After tearing down the head the following was found. 1) Heavy carbon build up of head and piston. 2) Cylinder worn on one side (Egg Shaped) SOLUTION: Bore cylinder and get oversized piston and rings. The engine would start when warm due to the expansion allowing for correct compression and no leakage. CAUSE: The 1994 Kodiak is 17 Years Old with No Top End ever done.
  9. I'm pulling the head and checking rings and cylinder walls. This is the only thing on the Kodiak that hasn't been checked. I believe i've got a bad ring or cylinder wall letting small amounts of oil into the combustion chamber. The Kodiak only starts when warm.
  10. I didn't have the tools for the leak down test. so I ask the dealer if they did a leak down test. ANSWER: NO...uh..but we should have. This is the only Yamaha Dealer within 80 miles, so I'm stuck. Stay tuned...
  11. Reference Post: Kodiak Cools Off - Cranks but Won"t Start? The '94 Kodiak has been at the dealer for 3 days with no results, except for the dealer charging me $200 to check the things I told him I had already checked. They don't have a clue. The latest from the dealer is "You probably need a TOP END at $400". I know it's 15 years old, but it only has only 900 easy miles on it. The compression is pretty high when it's warmed up. (170 psi) spec is 140 psi. When engine is cool the compression reads 115 psi, well within specs. I'm going to pull the head and check for carbon build up, but I s
  12. I left the Kodiak at the Dealer Thursday, 20 Oct. They are still trying to figure out why it starts and runs like a champ when warm, but wont try to start when the engine is the least bit cool. As of Saturday 22 Oct, No solution. After again testing most everything I had already tested, The Dealer has no clue whats wrong. Dealer closed on Monday, so I wont know any more until Tuesday. Stay Tuned...
  13. Before you spend the bucks on something you dont need. Pull off all the body parts and check each wire connection. Clean them a add dielectric grease to EVERY connection including the spark plug and cap. Also a bad battery can cause the lack of spark. DO NOT TRY AND JUMP IT WITH A CAR BATTERY - HIGH CRANKING AMP BATTERIES COULD DAMAGE THE "CDI" ELECTRONICS. If you get it started check the DC voltage going to the battery. If its between 13.5 and 14 volts your stator is OK.
  14. The Kodiak went to the dealer today. The mechanic did a complete inspection of the carb. Nothing much was wrong, but he didn't like the brass aftermarket main jet needle. He changed it back to the stock needle. He said most aftermarket needle sets were in spec. He also changed the O-Ring on the Fuel/Air needle. When I left he got it started after a lot of cranking and fooling with the intake. It idles smooth just like it did when I would start it by heating up the head and spark plug. He wanted to keep it over night and check some other things in the morning after it was completely cool.
  15. @hangingon - Yep, checked the choke first thing. I dont think it would idle so smooth when it DOES start if the choke wasnt closing. @Swampcat07 - Off to the dealer AGAIN today. Wondering what he will test that I havent already done. BTW: Anyone know why an apostrophe doesnt show up when I type???

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