-
Similar Forum Topics
-
By hardcastle
My friends KQ 300 starts fine and runs, as soon as you put it in gear and try to accelerate its bucks and farts like crazy, not moving... I cleaned carb and it worked good for 1 day... now back to same problem.... could it be such as a bent valve????
-
By Its-always-something
Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
Any help and information greatly appreciated.
-
By Werewolf
My wheeler originally had a fuel leak.But on trying to start it no spark. Took front end off, when I try to start it I get one spark then nothing. Come back a while latter one spark,replaced coil and cdi box no help?
-
By 2wdrancher
Hello everyone I have done a ton of research on doing this conversion because I hate getting stuck in the stupidest places and not being able to back out. I will be documenting my conversion here and on a couple other forums and probably post a couple videos on YouTube. So what I’ve come up with is all you need is a front axles, front propeller shaft, the final shaft inside the engine and the 4x4 front engine cover . I will list all the part numbers for everything that you need and prices from about six months ago (sorry) , you DONT need to switch out hubs, knuckles, or anything like that, and if you want differential lock lock like the foreman and Rubicon you can get a foreman Rubicon front differential and propeller shaft with the diff-lock and get a knight sure four manual actuator for it and voilà you have four-wheel-drive rancher. Input from you guys is greatly appreciated thank you for your time!
Note: I would definitely get the aftermarket HD axles because they are definitely stronger and are around the same price as oem
FINAL SHAFT
23611-HR3-A40 =$80.48
BEARING
91006-HP5-601 =$11.11
OIL SEAL
91202-HR0-F01 =$ 7.94
COVER ASSY., FR. CRANKCASE
11300-HR3-WB0 =$206.99
PROPELLER SH AFT
40400-HR3-A20 =$91.50
FINAL GEAR
41400-HR3-W50 =$714.88
FINAL CASE BRA CKET
50350-HR3-A20 =$7.40
FLANGE BOLT
95701-08016-08 =$1.49
R. SHAFT SET
44250-HR3-WB1 =$240.64
L. DRIVESHAFT
44350-HR3-WB1 =$240.64
This is all for the 2x4 - 4x4 lever that comes in stock on the ranchers. I would definitely recommend looking for parts for wheelers on marketplace, or craigslist
001
NUT, ADJUSTING
41560-HP5-600
$6.51
002
CABLE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
41570-HR3-A21
$6.56
003
SPRING, CLUTCH CABLE
41571-HP5-600
$1.95
004
CLIP, CLUTCH CABLE
41573-HP5-600
$3.23
005
GROMMET, CLUTCH CABLE
41716-HP5-600
$3.12
006
LEVER, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54030-HP5-600
$8.91
007
PILLOW BALL, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54031-HP5-601
$10.87
008
BRACKET, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54040-HP5-601
$11.19
009
SPRING, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54041-HP5-600
$1.86
010
GATE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54050-HR3-A20
$4.55
011
GRIP, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54321-HP5-600
$8.95
X2 012
BOLT, FLANGE (6MM)
90111-162-000
$2.54
013
NUT, SELF-LOCK (6MM)
90343-ZE6-000
$1.70
014
JOINT B, BRAKE ARM
95015-32001
$0.82
X3 015
BOLT, FLANGE (6X12)
95701-06012-00
$1.34
Or Forman 520 w diff lock
FINAL GEAR
41400-HR4-A21 =$732.49
PROPELLER SHAFT
40400-HR4-A20 = $92.54
And you definitely need the sure four locker for this
-
By killer420
I know this has been talked about, so i did some research.
After my research, i started buying parts.
Here are the parts you need:
51380-HP7-A00, left front upper control arm
51370-HP7-A00, right front upper control arm
51350-HP5-600, right front lower control arm
51360-HP5-600, left front lower control arm
44615-HP5-600, front drive hubs (need 2)
53521-HP5-600, tie rods (need 2, this is just the adjuster rod, not the tie-rod ends)
51200-HP5-600, right steering knuckle
51250-HP5-600, left steering knuckle
53235-HP5-600, steering arm (connects the tie rod ends to the steering shaft)
23611-HP5-600, "final shaft", goes inside the engine, provides power to front and rear driveshafts)
40400-HP5-600, front driveshaft
44250-HP7-A31, right front axle
44350-HP7-A31, left front axle
11300-HP5-000, front crankcase cover
50350-HP5-600, front differential support bracket
41400-HP5-A50, front differential unit
You also need the 4wd shift lever and the cable that connects it to the differential. there is not a part number for the whole assembly, just look on ebay. thats where i got mine.
Now on to the good part, the turning of wrenches:
Here is the engine before removal:
after removal:
front differential in position:
^^^notice the "TRX420TM" decal, indicating 2wd
Here is a pic of the "final shaft", comparing the 2wd (in my hand) to the 4wd (in the engine).
^This is the most difficult part of this conversion, removing and opening the engine to swap out this shaft. However, there is a lovely video on youtube showing how to rebuild this engine and they clearly show the steps to remove/replace the rear cover and final shaft. Dont forget to remove the front cover before installing the new shaft, it will not fit thru the 2wd front cover.
link to video>:
once the new shaft is installed:
you will need to install the front and rear covers using sealant, make sure all shims/washers and o-rings are in place in the correct locations referencing the video above.
here is the right front corner mostly assembled:
and fully assembled with hub, rotor, and brake caliper:
I do have more pictures to upload, when i have more time i will update this further
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.