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2007 Honda Rancher 420 - Brakes


tfg289

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    • By afterburn
      From North Carolina here and glad to join this group.
    • By Werewolf
      My wheeler originally had a fuel leak.But on trying to start it no spark. Took front end off, when I try to start it I get one spark then nothing. Come back a while latter one spark,replaced coil and cdi box no help?
    • By 2wdrancher
      Hello everyone I have done a ton of research on doing this conversion because I hate getting stuck in the stupidest places and not being able to back out. I will be documenting my conversion here and on a couple other forums and probably post a couple videos on YouTube. So what I’ve come up with is all you need is a front axles, front propeller shaft, the final shaft inside the engine and the 4x4 front engine cover . I will list all the part numbers for everything that you need and prices from about six months ago (sorry) , you DONT need to switch out hubs, knuckles, or anything like that, and if you want differential lock lock like the foreman and Rubicon you can get a foreman Rubicon front differential and propeller shaft with the diff-lock and get a knight sure four manual actuator for it and voilà you have four-wheel-drive rancher. Input from you guys is greatly appreciated thank you for your time!
      Note: I would definitely get the aftermarket HD axles because they are definitely stronger and are around the same price as oem 
      FINAL SHAFT
      23611-HR3-A40  =$80.48
       
      BEARING
      91006-HP5-601   =$11.11
       
      OIL SEAL
      91202-HR0-F01   =$ 7.94
       
      COVER ASSY., FR. CRANKCASE
      11300-HR3-WB0   =$206.99
       
      PROPELLER SH AFT
      40400-HR3-A20   =$91.50
       
      FINAL GEAR
      41400-HR3-W50   =$714.88
       
      FINAL CASE BRA CKET
      50350-HR3-A20  =$7.40
       
      FLANGE BOLT
      95701-08016-08  =$1.49
       
      R. SHAFT SET
      44250-HR3-WB1  =$240.64
       
      L. DRIVESHAFT
      44350-HR3-WB1  =$240.64
      This is all for the 2x4 - 4x4  lever that comes in stock on the ranchers. I would definitely recommend looking for parts for wheelers on marketplace,  or craigslist
       
      001
      NUT, ADJUSTING 
      41560-HP5-600
      $6.51
       
      002
      CABLE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      41570-HR3-A21
      $6.56
       
      003
      SPRING, CLUTCH CABLE 
      41571-HP5-600
      $1.95
       
      004
      CLIP, CLUTCH CABLE 
      41573-HP5-600
      $3.23
       
      005
      GROMMET, CLUTCH CABLE 
      41716-HP5-600
      $3.12
       
      006
      LEVER, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54030-HP5-600
      $8.91
       
      007
      PILLOW BALL, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54031-HP5-601
      $10.87
       
      008
      BRACKET, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54040-HP5-601 
      $11.19
       
      009
      SPRING, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54041-HP5-600
      $1.86
       
      010
      GATE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54050-HR3-A20
      $4.55
       
      011
      GRIP, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54321-HP5-600
      $8.95
       
      X2 012
      BOLT, FLANGE (6MM) 
      90111-162-000
       
      $2.54 
       
      013
      NUT, SELF-LOCK (6MM) 
      90343-ZE6-000
      $1.70
       
      014
      JOINT B, BRAKE ARM 
      95015-32001
      $0.82
       
      X3 015
      BOLT, FLANGE (6X12) 
      95701-06012-00
      $1.34
       
       
      Or Forman 520 w diff lock
       
      FINAL GEAR
      41400-HR4-A21  =$732.49
       
      PROPELLER SHAFT
      40400-HR4-A20  = $92.54
      And you definitely need the sure four locker for this
    • By killer420
      I know this has been talked about, so i did some research.
      After my research, i started buying parts.
      Here are the parts you need:
      51380-HP7-A00, left front upper control arm
      51370-HP7-A00, right front upper control arm
      51350-HP5-600, right front lower control arm
      51360-HP5-600, left front lower control arm
      44615-HP5-600, front drive hubs (need 2)
      53521-HP5-600, tie rods (need 2, this is just the adjuster rod, not the tie-rod ends)
      51200-HP5-600, right steering knuckle
      51250-HP5-600, left steering knuckle
      53235-HP5-600, steering arm (connects the tie rod ends to the steering shaft)
      23611-HP5-600, "final shaft", goes inside the engine, provides power to front and rear driveshafts)
      40400-HP5-600, front driveshaft
      44250-HP7-A31, right front axle
      44350-HP7-A31, left front axle
      11300-HP5-000, front crankcase cover
      50350-HP5-600, front differential support bracket
      41400-HP5-A50, front differential unit
      You also need the 4wd shift lever and the cable that connects it to the differential. there is not a part number for the whole assembly, just look on ebay. thats where i got mine.
      Now on to the good part, the turning of wrenches:
      Here is the engine before removal:


      after removal:

      front differential in position:

      ^^^notice the "TRX420TM" decal, indicating 2wd
      Here is a pic of the "final shaft", comparing the 2wd (in my hand) to the 4wd (in the engine).

      ^This is the most difficult part of this conversion, removing and opening the engine to swap out this shaft. However, there is a lovely video on youtube showing how to rebuild this engine and they clearly show the steps to remove/replace the rear cover and final shaft. Dont forget to remove the front cover before installing the new shaft, it will not fit thru the 2wd front cover.
      link to video>:
      once the new shaft is installed:

      you will need to install the front and rear covers using sealant, make sure all shims/washers and o-rings are in place in the correct locations referencing the video above.
      here is the right front corner mostly assembled:

      and fully assembled with hub, rotor, and brake caliper:

      I do have more pictures to upload, when i have more time i will update this further
    • By tryn2hrd
      I have a rancher 420 TM that since i bought it has a cold hard shift problem beyond a doubt clutch is not releasing by shift lever. After it gets good and hot it shifts ok. Tried preloading adjustment screw clutch releases and shifts smooth but slips. Have had the clutch out and apart twice for inspection and didnt see anything wrong. Any tips will be appreciated. I've ran out of things to try instead of throwing new parts at it. 
       
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