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Found 17 results

  1. Iam looking for help seperating the rear brake drum and the cover. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate
  2. I have a 99 Yamaha bear tracker and I have converted the front brakes from drum to disc fairly easy but I cant figure out how to convert the rear with out hacking apart the rear arm. tried to use parts from a wolverine since the rear arms look similar but the caliper mount didn't line up on the bear tracker axle. Can anyone give me any clues or has anyone successfully converted the bear tracker rear brakes. I would even purchase a conversion kit if there is one. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Not sure if this has been posted here or not, but if it hasnt then I think it is worthy of a sticky note. 1997 Suzuki Quadrunner LTF-4WD 250 front drum brake wheel cylinders are the same as a common part on Geo Metros and other vehicles. Try the following: DHB-W37850 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder I got mine from Summit Racing for around $7 each versus the Suzuki dealer who wanted $60 each. I appreciate the help everyone has provided me on this forum. Thanks!
  4. Hello i have a 03 polaris predator 500 sprt quad. Can anyone tell me why my rear brakes rattle? They operate fine I just am wondering what part to replace.
  5. Well I got this thing a few weeks ago for 2k. Rode everyday and hard by me, last guy was older and easy on it. Anyway. Need some help. Posting pics and info below Alright. Why are my tires rubbing so different?!?! What is oozing from front axle? Should I worry? That's from rear axle, worried about that oozing black stuff. It was all by my finger. What is it?! Also brakes have nothing. Where do I start with them?! And where can I get a cheap solenoid and tires?! Thanks! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
  6. I own a 1998 Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x2. It has hydraulic drum front brakes and mechanical single drum brake in rear. When I bought the quad a yr ago the brakes barely worked. I installed rebuild kit for brake master cylinder, replaced wheel cylinders up front, front/rear shoes, and replaced rear brake cable. The front brakes grab sort of ok now, but the rear barely grabs at all. On a side note; If I drive through any trails with muddy water, moisture is getting inside the drums. Worse in the rear drum. These drum brakes have never worked great. They slow me down but don't have enough bite to lock up the wheels. Now I have considered my drums may have worn thin, therefore causing the shoes to not make strong enough contact (???) I'm guessing. The front brakes are spooned out so they fit snug and they work just ok. The rears I have adjusted close to the maximum setting for the actuator arm. I read online about a Yamaha 1998 Big Bear 4x4 owner using a 2004 Big Bear 4x4 front disc brakes on it. He did have to dremel and drill out the lower ball joint to make new knuckles fit since the 04 knuckle has it's ball joint on bottom. It sounded cool and the owner claimed it stopped better. I'm considering a conversion, but it sounds expensive. I hate sinking $400+ worth of disc brake parts into a quad a bought for $500, and I already replaced the existing brake parts I previously listed. I'm just tired of my brakes working poorly and every time I get into some water on the trails the drums look like a septic tank inside the next day. I live in FL and this is the land of the Swamp. There is no avoiding mudholes and water. I would like some brakes that could survive any wet conditions. Any suggestions or helpful advice is appreciated.
  7. More observations and questions on this new to me bike. The rear brakes work OK but its obvious that they are in need of attention. It appears to me that the brake lever has been slightly bent at somepoint in its life. Another observation is the pedal travel is huge so I use the hand brake instead. Both cable adjusters are cinched all the way down as far as they can go. I have yet to pull the wheel and inspect the pads yet. I suppose my real question is does what I've described suggest need for new pads and cables or should new pads only get my adjusters, etc back into a more "normal" state like whats is shown in the service manual pictures? Also, I think I might be able to bend the lever back but seriously wondering if it really needs to be corrected. It is definately "off" a bit but not very much. Thoughts?
  8. Just replaced rear bake on 2007 rancher 420es. Instead of taking cables loose i took off the brake arm (mistake) got it all back together but what is the purpose of the brake indicator
  9. So on the 94 300EX rear pads I am having some issues.... Pins and lock tabs out, check. Back off e-brake, check. Caliper mounting bolts out, check. Pads out, check. Clean around piston area and use small c-clamp to push piston in, check. Install new pads and clean, lubricated pad pins with lock, check. Install caliper on mount, NADA, not gonna happen. Even with the piston all the way in there is NO WAY that the rotor is going to fit between the pads.. WTH??? Any suggestions? I feel like I am :beatdeadhorse5c:. No way should I have spent this much time on a stinking set of pads.. Thanks in advance. Eric
  10. I bought a 97' Big Bear several months ago. The brakes were in rough shape so I replaced the pads all around. The front was getting no pressure, so I replaced the Master Cylinder thinking that would solve the problem. I've tried bleeding the brakes on two different occasions, and still no pressure?! Is there some magical trick to bleeding the brakes??? I've pulled the handle, held it, turned the bleed screw slightly then closed approximately 100 times on both and still no pressure. Any suggestions, tricks, etc. would be greatly appreciated.
  11. I just acquired a 99 blaster. I put new break pads on the back, after I put the pads on the breaks are locked up pretty good. Any thoughts on the cause. I am a little frustrated. Marc
  12. My rear brake linkage become embedded with mud and burned out the rear wet brakes in the differential. I have found the replacement parts but was wondering if anyone has removed the rear differential and can provide some tips. Yes I am sure the plates are shot. Thanks
  13. HEY ALL, NEW TO THE SITE..MY POLARIS XPLORER 400 REAR BRAKES WONT WORK...JUST FILLED WITH FLUID BUT STILL NOTHING...I PURCHASED THE QUAD USED RECENTLY AND GOT A DECENT DEAL ON IT... I OPENED UP THE BRAKE FLUID RESEVOIR AND REALIZED IT WAS COMPLETELY EMPTY. WHEN i RODE IT I REALIZED THAT THE FOOT PEDAL HAD ABSOLUTELY NO FUNCTION AT ALL. YOU CAN PUSH IT ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR BOARD AND THE QUAD STILL DOESNT EVEN THINK OF SLOWING DOWN. IM THINKING PADS BUT NOT ENTIRLY SURE JUST THOUGHT ID GET ANOTHER OPINION...THANKS IN ADVANCE
  14. fixed leaky caliper on 650 arctic cat 05 4x4. it is auxillary caliper on rear wheel. after putting caliper back on, i cant get the caliper to suck in any fluid so i can even start to bleed the brakes. took line off at the master cylinder tried to pour some fluid in the master cylinder itself, no luck. its like it is vapor locked or stopped up someway. any help greatly appreciated, thanks patrick
  15. I have an 08' 400ex, and have some issues with the rear brake rotor and axel lock nut. The rotor has almost an 1/8 of an inch of play both left to right and up and down(i tried to tighten the allen bolts that hold the rotor to the hub, they are tight), and the axel lock nut and "collar" (the piece to the left of the nut, w/e it may be called) have a bit of play as well, yet they are not loose enough to be spinning on the axel. Both the nut and the "collar" are moving, but they are still together, with no play in between each other. What could this be? axel bearings? bad threads on the axel?
  16. How to Check the Brakes on a Polaris ATV | Expert Village Videos
  17. Has anyone here converted their blaster to hydraulic front and rear brakes from the standard front shoes and rear pads?? if so is it hard to do? -Mike

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