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Found 7 results

  1. I know this has been talked about, so i did some research. After my research, i started buying parts. Here are the parts you need: 51380-HP7-A00, left front upper control arm 51370-HP7-A00, right front upper control arm 51350-HP5-600, right front lower control arm 51360-HP5-600, left front lower control arm 44615-HP5-600, front drive hubs (need 2) 53521-HP5-600, tie rods (need 2, this is just the adjuster rod, not the tie-rod ends) 51200-HP5-600, right steering knuckle 51250-HP5-600, left steering knuckle 53235-HP5-600, steering arm (connects the tie rod ends to the steering shaft) 23611-HP5-600, "final shaft", goes inside the engine, provides power to front and rear driveshafts) 40400-HP5-600, front driveshaft 44250-HP7-A31, right front axle 44350-HP7-A31, left front axle 11300-HP5-000, front crankcase cover 50350-HP5-600, front differential support bracket 41400-HP5-A50, front differential unit You also need the 4wd shift lever and the cable that connects it to the differential. there is not a part number for the whole assembly, just look on ebay. thats where i got mine. Now on to the good part, the turning of wrenches: Here is the engine before removal: after removal: front differential in position: ^^^notice the "TRX420TM" decal, indicating 2wd Here is a pic of the "final shaft", comparing the 2wd (in my hand) to the 4wd (in the engine). ^This is the most difficult part of this conversion, removing and opening the engine to swap out this shaft. However, there is a lovely video on youtube showing how to rebuild this engine and they clearly show the steps to remove/replace the rear cover and final shaft. Dont forget to remove the front cover before installing the new shaft, it will not fit thru the 2wd front cover. link to video>: once the new shaft is installed: you will need to install the front and rear covers using sealant, make sure all shims/washers and o-rings are in place in the correct locations referencing the video above. here is the right front corner mostly assembled: and fully assembled with hub, rotor, and brake caliper: I do have more pictures to upload, when i have more time i will update this further
  2. I have a 99 Yamaha bear tracker and I have converted the front brakes from drum to disc fairly easy but I cant figure out how to convert the rear with out hacking apart the rear arm. tried to use parts from a wolverine since the rear arms look similar but the caliper mount didn't line up on the bear tracker axle. Can anyone give me any clues or has anyone successfully converted the bear tracker rear brakes. I would even purchase a conversion kit if there is one. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
  3. I own a 1998 Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x2. It has hydraulic drum front brakes and mechanical single drum brake in rear. When I bought the quad a yr ago the brakes barely worked. I installed rebuild kit for brake master cylinder, replaced wheel cylinders up front, front/rear shoes, and replaced rear brake cable. The front brakes grab sort of ok now, but the rear barely grabs at all. On a side note; If I drive through any trails with muddy water, moisture is getting inside the drums. Worse in the rear drum. These drum brakes have never worked great. They slow me down but don't have enough bite to lock up the wheels. Now I have considered my drums may have worn thin, therefore causing the shoes to not make strong enough contact (???) I'm guessing. The front brakes are spooned out so they fit snug and they work just ok. The rears I have adjusted close to the maximum setting for the actuator arm. I read online about a Yamaha 1998 Big Bear 4x4 owner using a 2004 Big Bear 4x4 front disc brakes on it. He did have to dremel and drill out the lower ball joint to make new knuckles fit since the 04 knuckle has it's ball joint on bottom. It sounded cool and the owner claimed it stopped better. I'm considering a conversion, but it sounds expensive. I hate sinking $400+ worth of disc brake parts into a quad a bought for $500, and I already replaced the existing brake parts I previously listed. I'm just tired of my brakes working poorly and every time I get into some water on the trails the drums look like a septic tank inside the next day. I live in FL and this is the land of the Swamp. There is no avoiding mudholes and water. I would like some brakes that could survive any wet conditions. Any suggestions or helpful advice is appreciated.
  4. Do you have a new Polaris Ranger or Ranger RZR with the factory aluminum wheels? Do you like the style of the wheels but really want a set of beadlocks? Here at OMF Performance Products, Inc. we can convert your factory aluminum wheels to beadlocks for the best of both worlds at a very reasonable price. For $549.95 per set of four 12” wheels, we will convert your factory wheels to a beadlock More...
  5. I own a 1996 Kingquad 300. I am not a big fan of front drum brakes. Are there any disc brake kits out there (universal or specific) I can use with my ATV?
  6. Does anyone know where I can get a kit to convert the single lever braking system into a split Front / Rear system for the sportsman? I have looked around and have not been able to find one. Would really love to have seperate brakes on my XP
  7. NEW “G.I”. CUSTOM ATV CONVERSION KIT BY TIPPMANN DESIGN Looks like this is a Yamaha Rhino. here is the site: http://www.tippmanndesign.com/

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