Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

quintain

1990 Yamaha Big Bear 350 - Throttle Cables

Recommended Posts

Hi, (Big Bear 350 4x4 1990 +- year, I am still looking for the VIN).

Quad starts and runs and has 2 cables coming out of the throttle cable assembly one goes to the carb the other is not connected.

Where should the unconnected cable be connected to ???

I have a service manual but can only find talk of "Throttle valve cable" and "Piston valve cable" I cannot see where the "piston valve cable connects.

Any help especially with pictures would be good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Hi There,

New here but was just cleaning the carb on my 1990 Big Bear a few weekends ago. If you cant readily see exactly where that second cable goes I suspect your machine might have a newer carb on it.

On my carb, there are 2 brass "ports" for cables. One on the side for the throttle. One on the top for the piston. One actuates the butterfly, one actuated the recangle-ish piston within the carb body.

Hope this helps!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

here's what my '91 looks like with the gas tank and seat removed ....

IMG235_zpsa6f7bc9b.jpg

IMG236_zpsd1b03f1f.jpg

both of these cables join in a junction box and a single cable goes back to the throttle lever ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to you both.

My carb does not have the top connector, the one with the 3 screws holding it down.

My carb looks like your picture but the top piece has no opening.

Any thoughts ??

I can send a pic (later) if it would help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I'll strip it over the weekend end and see what is under the top !!!

But what should my missing connection do ??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, your carb is not original but your cables are.

The second cable manually actuates the piston inside the carb body. The kind you have is actuated by vacuum.

search youtube for " yamaha big bear" and there are a couple videos on carb cleaning that shows your style carb.

I believe your carb is just a later model. Not sure if one is better that the other or not but should function just fine.

Edited by Getch

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Getch

It could be that the bike is a bit newer than I thought.

I cannot see that anyone would have changed the carb for a newer one.

I have watched youtube on a number of carb cleans and when time permits I will strip it and see whats happening.

I still cannot find the VIN and I am looking in the correct area i.e. frame below or in front of gear shift, I can almost (I think) see some sort of marking on the frame behind the shift.

The bike has had a hard farming life and is banged about and surface rusted. But I hope to eventually get the VIN.

At this moment I am working, when time permits, on the brakes and have just discovered that the bleed screw on the nearside front is damaged so I need to fully strip that down.

Thank you for your interest.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I still cannot find the VIN and I am looking in the correct area i.e. frame below or in front of gear shift, I can almost (I think) see some sort of marking on the frame behind the shift.

The bike has had a hard farming life and is banged about and surface rusted. But I hope to eventually get the VIN.

check where the handlebars go into the frame too ....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Will do.

Email hiccup for the last hour or so, my service provider had a hiccup.

Some messages may have been returned as undeliverable.

All is now good and safe.

Regards

quintain

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks o_b

I believe I downloaded your service manual which I am embarrassed to say I did not thank you for; but belatedly I do so now.

As a new user of the or indeed any quad the pic at 4.1 in the service manual did not fully make me aware of the 2nd throttle cable position.

I can see it now including the description of "Piston Valve Cable" on id #8 on the page.

I will be most interested to see what is discovered when I open up the carb. Either a bad alteration or a vacuum operated carb.

Thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just for update

These pics of my carb may help someone else.

It is a single throttle cable that operates all that is needed BUT it has been fitted with a twin cable from the throttle assembly with one cable not connected.

The pics show the operating connection with some red tape on it.

Thanks again for help and advice.

"still trying to find my VIN looked everywhere (I think)"

carb-strip1.jpg

carb-strip2.jpg

carb-strip3.jpg

carb-strip1.jpg.e7b1ae49c7abe24891666c46c62cac3a.jpg

carb-strip2.jpg.00500ec51bef0a481502a0950af3940e.jpg

carb-strip3.jpg.5904a62f643cfc0f9ad0a3b93388cdef.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 1992 big bear 350 who's carburetor has two cables to it; one to the front and one at the top.  I want to install a new carb that requires just one cable to the front.  Which one of the cables do I use from the old set up? [email protected]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Dwight Williams
      Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00.  It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year.  Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc.  No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing.  Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right?  I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water.  I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine.  I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark.  Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs.  Wet test bumped it up to 90.  Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised.  I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show  it's got life.  Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either.  The compression is now around 60.
        Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going?  I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn.  I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well.  Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again.  Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right.  I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
      I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much.  I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down?  I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
       
      I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
       
      thanks!
    • By Ellery Zandt
      I have no idea where the antifreeze line coming off the thermostat goes too. The carb two nipples in the pic create a vacumme. Can someone help me on this please....!!! my email direct is [email protected]!!!!
    • By JacobSlabach
      got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price.  one of which is a yamaha warrior.  anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike?  Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet.  The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work.  he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears.  things I see:  clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box.  I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first.  also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts.  Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last).  any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
      the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like.  lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris 
    • By Colin Davis
      Does anybody know where I can buy a complete wiring harness for a Yamaha bear tracker. If not could someone send me a picture of the the colors of the wires coming out of the cdi plug and voltage rectifier. So I can get an idea of how I need to wire it. Also where can I find a wiring diagram for them?
    • By Colin Davis
      I recently acquired a Yamaha bear tracker 250 that does have a wiring harness.  Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the 250s. Also if you have a pin diagram that tells be the colors of the wires going to the cdi and rectifier or just a picture of the plugs would be much appreciated. I can’t find anything on the harness online. I have all of the switches and stuff and I plan on just build a harness myself because I can’t find one to buy.



  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Alan Callison
      I just got a 2004 Yamaha that needs some work.Its got wet brakes on the front that Im trying to get working.My problem is the brake lever.This the lever on it now.On the master cylinder it has a cable in it that has the wire that fits in a slot inside the lever itself but this lever isn't made for that.I dont know if whoever had it before didn't know what they were doing or what but its the wrong lever for this machine. Can someone point me in the right direction here? I looked at the Yamaha website and the schematics only show a part that looks like this one here. Again,I have a 2004 Yam 400 Kodiak 4x4 and its an automatic model. BTW,the master cyl. was bone dry. I was gonna change out the rear brake shoes and when I went to pull off the wheel,get this, each wheel stud had 2 different sized washers holding the lug nuts to the wheel rim. The stud holes were so worn out it had worn away the base of the studs and the holes were the size of  quarter! Im lucky someone didn't die while riding this! A word to the wise.Pay attention to what you buy.Look carefully and keep a keen eye out. This was my fault because it was the 1st ATV Id ever bought and I didnt notice alot on this machine so I guess I count myself lucky in that I didnt get hurt nor did anyone else who rode it either.
    • By dwo0100
      Took my wolvy for her first trail ride past weekend. Got home and cleaned all the mud and dirt off. Went to take a spin around the neighborhood and started having issues.
      When you are about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the RPMs will sudden spike way up with little difference in power to the machine. Once you shift to the next gear it will increase power/rpm consistently then same thing happens and you get a sudden RPM spike. It also seems to recreate the problem if you are low in the gear and try to punch it...High rpm with no power increase. If you shift gears and gradually increase throttle she will increase power and RPMs consistently but if you shift and are more than 1/2 throttle it will increase power and RPMs fine until you get about 1/2 to 3/4 way through the gear then you get the same RPM spike...
      Hope I am explaining this clearly. My truck did a similar thing once and it turned out to be a whole new tranny...hope this is a different issue. Thanks for your help guys and gals.
    • By BDurf94
      Wondering if anyone has an idea on what's wrong with my atv. I have a 2004 yamaha bear tracker 250. It runs perfectly fine in idle, but when I give it throttle it dies. Any suggestions are appreciated.
    • By b1jackson
      I purchased my kodiak earlier this winter. It was a being stored in a heated shop however when I went to pick it up, it was sitting outside in -20 and the throttle was froze shut. The bike seemed very clean with no mud on it so perhaps the PO washed it before storing it and some moisture got in the cable.
      My shop is unheated but in an effort to get it going, I made a little tarp tent and stuck a construction heater under it. Throttle cable came free and the bike started up an ran fine. 2 months later the bike is just sitting in my shop not being used. The throttle still freezes shut when the shop is cold but today, it was warm enough that it was free. But I wonder if there is an issue with the choke cable sticking? The bike seems to flood and won't start.
      I built my tarp tent again and warmed up the quad with the heater. Not sweltering hot but warm. I could get the bike to fire a couple times but then it seemed to flood again and wouldn't start. So is there something causing the choke not to work related to the cold? The lever seems to flip up no problem but not sure if it is doing something on the carb end causing it to flood and not start. The plug is new, spark good, and a nice mist of gas comes out of to piston when it's flooded.
      I don't want to tear into things if I just have to wait for warmer weather but would still like to get some early spring riding in. Any help?
    • By bigisland
      Hello, I have a 2005 Suzuki Eiger Quad runner. 400 4x4 Auto
      Starts ok. But when I push on the throttle, it stalls. Maybe the carb needs adjusted?
      There is some kind adjustment wheel that turns. I suppose this adjust fuel/air mix to carb. Either way I turn that, it still stalls when gas applied.
      Our Suzuki dealer is no longer here, Honda will not work on it...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...