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Everything posted by Getch

  1. Thanks guys! I've been checking it every moning before I go to work...tire has not lost any more air so I think once I "tap" it back into shape, I should be OK.!
  2. New to ATV's so have some general questions on best proctices and repairs. This weekend a buddy came over with his 4 wheeler. He is much more experieinced and in my haste to try to keep up, I seem to have dented a front rim a bit. That tire is noticably lost some air but it does not appear to be bad enough to go full flat. First, I think I can knock the dent back with a ball peen or a BFH and a cold chisel. Is there any other tips and fixing this sort of dent in the rim? Last question is on air pressure. I was very surprised at how low the pressure is recommended. The tires on the bike are Bear Claws. Rather aggressive tread. Is there any rule on pressure vs terrain? Does one always stay with the recommended or do you go over a bit in rockier stuff? I am not sure if the dent came from a rock or a tree stump. btw...pretty much thrashed the bike Saturday! It was a blast and it performed like a champ! Got stuck only once in some really deep muck on my property. Definately need to add a winch to it sooner than later!
  3. bOY, i WOULD NOT SPEND $600 FOR A NEW CARB...Ebay has several I believe for far less than that. I am no expert by any means but if it were me, I think I would pull the carb and go through the rebuild steps just to make sure I did not mess up somewhere and that everything is where it should be and clean. PIA I know but it will give you peace of mind that you did it correctly or you'll find an issue. I am kind of on the fence when it comes to a replacement or not of the jets and hard parts in a carb when rebuilding. Floats, seals, needle valve sure. You could put that original jet back in a see what you get.
  4. Maybe fuel petcock needs a good cleaning. Have you tested that? Pull fuel line off carb and place in a plastic water bottle then turn petcock on to make sure you have a nice flow of fuel. If its not steady flow...might need cleaning or replacing.
  5. Two thumbs up! Very excited this morning. Temp was 26 degrees this morning so I decided to try a cold start on the Big Bear before heading to work. She fired right up! Awsome!
  6. Yeah mine would not start/run with the air filter one either...turns out the foam filter was so laden with dirt and oil no air could get through. I'm no expert on carbs but read that if will only run on choke, then either carb is dirty. Perhaps bad gas or carb out of adjustment. Did you do a full carb kit rebuild or clean and reassemble?
  7. Getch

    New here...

    Thanks All! This is a great site! Do plan to use the ethanol additive. I use stabil on all my stuff at presently. Great stuff for sure. Held up the fuel in my "race car" for about a 5 year storage. Was really amazed.
  8. Not saying you are as green as I am on bikes...but the same issue happened to me when I put my carb back on. My problem had to do with my own stupidity...I was assuming gas was getting into the carb bowl. It was not. I had petcock on, but level was low enough to require reserve setting....I'm new to "ON" vs "RES"! Switched over to reserve and she fired right up. Boy did I feel silly. Also +2 on the plug check. I was actually able to remove mine without a tool. It was just finger tight....but that is another story!
  9. FYI...My owners manual does not specifically state this but the Service manual does. Remove the shifter peg and access to that lower allen head is easy. I am new to bikes and thought simply loosening the bolt on the shifter was enough to remove...not the case on the 1990 I have. Remove the bolt completely and the shifter slips right off.
  10. I noticed this as well on my 1990 Big Bear after full fluid change and filter cleaning. Before the oil change, zero smoke at start-up/idle. Afterwards, smokes a bit on initial start but clears up after warmed up. Kind attributing to the fact that maybe poor oil circulation due to very clogged oil filter in my case and age of the bike systems. Planning on valve adjust but not sure that will make any difference in start up smoking. I'll be watching for additional tips too.
  11. FYI....trick I learned recently with stuck brake bleeder screws. Heat real good, then immediately quench with cold water, then apply the wrench. They loosened right up with very little effort. Worked great on 2 very stuck bleeders on my car. Unsure if this can/should be used in the oil filter bolts or not for you machine. Mine has a couple wires right there so caution on those with the heat.
  12. FYI...Worked on the brakes this past weekend. found that either dad-in-law (unlikely) or the shop that serviced the bike had the cam holder mounted out of spec. The raised indicator line was pointing straight down vs directly to the rear. I am not sure that really matters or no because once I put it back to "normal" and reinstalled everything am am back to nearly no additional adjustment as the pads wear. The pads looked nearly new. Still tons of "meat" on them. I did adjust and the pedal feel better now. Also found the reverse lockout cable is unconnected and appears frozen....but thats another story.
  13. More observations and questions on this new to me bike. The rear brakes work OK but its obvious that they are in need of attention. It appears to me that the brake lever has been slightly bent at somepoint in its life. Another observation is the pedal travel is huge so I use the hand brake instead. Both cable adjusters are cinched all the way down as far as they can go. I have yet to pull the wheel and inspect the pads yet. I suppose my real question is does what I've described suggest need for new pads and cables or should new pads only get my adjusters, etc back into a more "normal" state like whats is shown in the service manual pictures? Also, I think I might be able to bend the lever back but seriously wondering if it really needs to be corrected. It is definately "off" a bit but not very much. Thoughts?
  14. thanks again! not really working it since it has been unused for so long I've been mainly giving the kids rides around the yard so far. This weekend I'll get the proper ATV oil and run thru another change.
  15. Yeah, your carb is not original but your cables are. The second cable manually actuates the piston inside the carb body. The kind you have is actuated by vacuum. search youtube for " yamaha big bear" and there are a couple videos on carb cleaning that shows your style carb. I believe your carb is just a later model. Not sure if one is better that the other or not but should function just fine.
  16. Thanks for the info! Let me follow up with this one building on my other post. In a nutshell, due to the amount of shavings found in the oil filter on the oil change I just did, I fully expected to do another oil change after running for a few miles just to validate a clean engine. Do I risk any damage running for a short period with the 20w50 I have in there now?
  17. Hi all, Thinking I may need to replace clutch disks on my 1990 Big Bear at some point in the near future. I've seen a bunch on ebay for anywhere from 40-70 bucks. Wondering if they are quality parts or better to stay away? Thanks!
  18. Hi All, I will start by saying I am real new to ATV's but not to wrenching. I just completed a complete fluid change on my 1990 Big bear 350. The owners manual recommends 20w40 for the engine oil but I see nearly everywhere people using 10w30 or 10w40. I actually was unable to find 20w40 so I used 20w50 that I did find at Walmart. My questions are: 1) What is the Statndard that is OK? 2) Is regular oil for Automobile OK to use? 3) Whats the difference in Auto oil vs Motorcycle oil vs ATV oil? Is there any? Thanks!
  19. Just a thought, and I have not read the entire manual yet but for my "new to me" 1990, the bike has to be in neutral to start. If yours is similar, and it is in neutral but nothing happens, I'm thinking there might be a neutral safety switch similar to a car that has gone bad. Just tossing out ideas.
  20. Hi There, New here but was just cleaning the carb on my 1990 Big Bear a few weekends ago. If you cant readily see exactly where that second cable goes I suspect your machine might have a newer carb on it. On my carb, there are 2 brass "ports" for cables. One on the side for the throttle. One on the top for the piston. One actuates the butterfly, one actuated the recangle-ish piston within the carb body. Hope this helps!
  21. Getch

    New here...

    Thanks for the info! Way ahead of you on the service manual! Finding that was my reason for registering here! Love finding service manuals for my projects! I've already scanned it a few times and read several sections. My plan was to run it for a few miles, then do another oild change to validate she's clean. I've got several questions regarding routine maintenance conradictions I'm seeing but I'll post those in a new post specific to the question.
  22. Hi All, Newbie here as well as ATV ownership. We just "inherited" my wife's grandmother's Yamaha Big Bear 350. Its a 1990. Its been sitting in her Dad's barn unused since even before he passed away a couple years ago. I actually drove it way back when my wife and I started dating. I think her Dad was seeing if the "city kid" had any "metal"! Anyway, it was very hard starting and would not stay running at all. Trailered it home from Vermont and got to work on it. Check the pic of what I found when I pulled the carb apart! I've never seen anything quite like that! LOL. Well, since that cleaning, I've cleaned it fairly well, changed all the fluids, fixed some minor issues, and learned the difference between ON and RES! It is now starting right up, idles nicely and moves along pretty good. I was fairly concerned on the engine oil change I did yesterday in finding a good deal of metal shavings in the oil filter and bottom drain plug. Have no idea how long that was unattended. The engine seems to run nice a smooth, no smoking, odd noises, etc... Thinking clutch may need servicing. Any thoughts would be appreciated! btw...great forum here! Seems like tons of good info!!

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